AH64ID

But we don't let trailers push us downhill in neutral. There is no lube pump, so all the lube is splash lube, so the question would come down to what all is turning and slashing lube when the drive-shaft is the turning the guts, but nothing else. Normally in neutral the engine is still spinning the input as well as the drives-haft spinning the guts, unless you coast in N with the clutch in. Neutral has to be the key to that comment, since exhaust braking adds a lot of stress to the gears and they would fail quick if it was just a coasting issue. I am not saying I agree with the comment, just looking at both sides. It does seem far fetched, but?? Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the NV4500 or NV5600. --- Update to the previous post... I just looked at my owners manual. It states that 2wd cannot flat tow, the rear tires must be raised to avoid trans damage. 4wd can only flat tow with the Transfer case in N.. Maybe there is some validity. --- Update to the previous post... From the 2005 Owners manual... But should apply to all NV-5600 equipped trucks. NOTE: Both the Manual Shift and Electronic Shift transfer cases must be shifted into Neutral (N) for recreational towing. Automatic transmissions must be placed in P (Park) position for recreational towing. Manual transmissions must be left in gear (not in neutral) for recreational towing. Refer below for the proper transfer case Neutral shifting procedure for your vehicle. --- Update to the previous post... Its the best gear EVER!! Now if they would just go one more and give me a 7 speed.. A towing (.85) and a empty (.70) OD. 2150 rpms would be either 65 or 80 in OD.. PERFECT!

My truck has a speedi sleeve on it, seems to be working great. As stout as these motors are the cranks seems to be very prone to wear at the front main seal.

The 2nd gens are louder than the 3rd gens based on the air filter location in proximity to the firewall. But I removed mine and its noticeable, but not loud and I am not sure its enough noise the wife even noticed I did anything. Also stock intakes will make less whistle than aftermarket ones based on the tubing and filter design. But its fun to hear when you pull some boost.

I highly recommend this mod for anyone with a second gen!Hi idle is one of the most used features of my truck. Being a 3rd gen all I had to do was ground a pin on the ECM for my manual and enable it with my Smarty. I can manually select between 1100-1500 rpms, regardless of the coolant temp. This feature is great for warming a cold engine, or cooling a warm engine. I also always bump up to 1100 rpms for extended idling (where it can't be avoided), to put a better load on the motor for a more complete combustion. Too bad I can't do 3cyl, would be neat to hear it on a 3rd gen. At first it seemed odd that its the back half of the motor, but then I thought about the firing order 153624, so it would have to be 132 or 564, no other way around it.

Need a hired driver? That would be fun!

That would be fun! I figure the install will be in April.. gives me some time to fund and install the studs, and to fund the controller, manifold/turbo blankets, and anything else I may need. So the new wheel and housing are here, and in perfect shape!!

Do you have a fuel psi gauge?Can you hear the pump running?You may crack the line at the pump to see if its pumping.

As far as I know the only year that had plastic end tanks was 2005, and only early 05's, they went back to metal in 05.5. My 05 had the plastic IC, I am glad it got warrantied and now I have an OEM metal on. Your looks OEM, but I haven't seen a ton of 2nd gen ones.

I need to get some pics off to UPS to finish the claim..But UPS brought me a new comp housing and comp wheel today :hyper: I haven't seen it yet to see if they damaged this one yet, but knowing Richard at GDP UPS could do anything they wanted at it would arrive unscathed!More to follow....

Seems like it would be a sensor out of whack. Can you look at the coolant temp with a scanner and see that it correlates with what it should be?Next guess would be the IAT sensor.

Gotcha.. wasn't thinking the pickups with Hips

I don't think thats enough pressure (cue Mike's fuel psi gauge link)... --- Update to the previous post... Pressure is directly related to flow and restriction. If you have the same restriction and the pressure drops, that means flow is dropping. (Now going from idle to WOT is a restriction change, flow is unchanged thus you get a pressure drop).. But idle to idle or WOT to WOT more flow is only indicated by more pressure.

Thats pretty impressive!By fender are you talking the bedside, or wheel well liner? I am having a hard time imagining a bedside cracking!

Its a federal fine, and yeah can be amazingly expensive! Not worth it, IMHO.I understand they have test strips these days that can test the exhaust for the dye, nothing invasive as you don't own your exhaust once it leaves the truck :banghead:

I like the idea of , on/off/auto. I am sure off and auto are what I would normally use, but it would be nice to turn it on with a switch if ever needed... But 99.9% of the time it would live in Auto.

Besides wood heat feels SOOO much better than central heat, thou central heat is really my only option. I do need to get up in the hills in the next month or so a bed full for camping/fire pit.

Grounds and hot leads are where I would start looking. Clean them up and tighten them down.

I have seen up to 18psi to cruise at 80 in 10* weather, where in 75* weather is 12psi and 95* is 8psi.

I'll have to look into that, just for grins.. but diesel grins are fun!

Yes be happy it was a CP3! Since it was the wiring that failed I would say thats why you could pull fuel thru the Walbro, because when its the pump I don't think thats an option. Did GM finally add a LP, I didn't they had one even in 2009. I am guessing that your RP dropped at idle due to the slower rpms of the CP3 not creation the suction needed. The ability of the CP3 to suck its own fuel is great when you look at getting stranded, especially if you spend a lot of time off the beaten path. One of the reason I want to go with a frame mounted LP is the quick ability to bypass the pump with a 1' piece of hose, and get home!Glad you back up and running.

Congrats! I have yet to break 20 on mine, maybe one of these days! I think air density plays a much larger role than many folks realized, especially if its -10*F out!

This would be awesome on my truck. I may have to look at in great detail compared to the 3rd gen!

How sweet would a PE-7100 5.9 be with a stand alone computer!

I slightly overfill my NV5600 as well. I run about 7.5 qts in mine, but the fast coolers eat up 2 of that.

I got mine at the local dealership for about $100. I have not seen one listed for the 2nd gens before, thou I haven't really looked. I beleive Dodge calls it the Cold Weather Cover. The link in my sig should have most of that.