AH64ID

I don't see any DD clutch for any Dpdge application that is two different materials.

Yeah I think the stock IAT sensor readings on the 2nd gens are bogus and Cummins moved them in 03 to be more accurate. The 2nd gens sensors are overly effected by the proximity to cooling passages. Where do you have your sensor located?

Intake/exhaust overlap and stagnant air will do that, especially with the location of the IAT sensor reading so close to the coolant. I have never seen over 160° while driving and breaking 135° isn't easy either.. Even in a 95° day towing at 20K lbs up a grade with 26-30 lbs of boost and 215° on the coolant the IATs in the manifold are generally only 130-135°.

Michael, I didn't realize the 2nd gen cam has so much overlap on it. I have really only seen an IAT rise on 1 of the 3 cams I have ran. The OEM didn't seem to have any IAT rise with the EB on and my current Hamilton 178/208 has very little, if any, IAT rise but the Colt Stage 1 had quite a bit. It always made me wonder if I was getting soot on my IAT sensor but when I had the intake off 2 years ago there was no buildup. I would really like to see you hook up and hit white bird at 60-65 mph and 20K lbs to see what the IATs do. Even with the sealed air box and a 3" CAI tube below the fender my IATs pre-turbo go up quickly as coolant temp rises. My exhaust manifold and turbine are wrapped in a heat blanket so the added heat is not from EGTs. After watching pre-turbo IATs, intake manifold IATs and coolant temp over the last 90K plus miles the coolant temp has the biggest effect on IATs and turbo discharge temp appears to be the second. I know there are some differences in our body/airflow but underwood heat is underhood heat. The location of the 2nd generation IAT sensor is also misleading to the true air temp, as we have discussed, so rises in it tell me there is a significant rise.

The OFE is 1/2 and 1/2. OFE stands for Organic and FEramic. Feramic is SBC's version of ceramic on the singe disk.

I thought you had an OFE? Or are you talking about 1/2 and 1/2 DD's?

Interesting. When I bought my clutch (OFE) I was told that the SDD was a quad organic face clutch. We shall see about the dampened intermediate plate as, from what I have seen on several of them (SBC and Valair), the dampers wear out quickly.

The DD3250-6 has organic materiel on all 4 surfaces and is reported to be a very smooth clutch, albeit just a little noisy. The -6 indicates it is for the 6 speeds with the 1 3/8" input shaft. I did notice that the NV4500 with a 1 3/8" shaft has a part number of -5K instead of -6. I wonder if there is another difference that keeps the -6 from working on a NV4500???

If you can I would check the IATs while towing up some long grades. I notice a big shift in IAT when towing and the compressor discharge pipe is HOT, the thermostat is full open, and the exhaust manifold is hot. This is all with a sealed box on my 3rd gen.

I have thought about this mod before but never pulled the trigger. I am looking forward to your results.

There is no way (at least not economical) to reuse the damper.

Make sure it gives you TBN. Without TBN, IMHO, the UOA is useless as TBN is as important at the remaining tests combined.

Yes and No. Baldwin is often better than Fleetguard in terms of fuel/water separation but they are not always better in terms of final filtration. The PF7977 is better for f/w separation and final filtration than the Fleetguard, but the BF7633 falls a bit short of the FF5320 in terms of final filtration. The BT7349 isn't even close to as good of filter as the Donaldson, nor the Fleetguard Stratapore. The BT7349 is an entry level filter. There isn't one company that is just better at all filters, which is why I run 2 Baldwin and 1 Fleetguard fuel filters, a Donaldson oil filter, a Donaldson coolant filter, and a Mopar air filter. It doesn't take much time to find the best filter for each application, nor to buy them. As for UOA I have been very happy with Oil Analyzers Inc and less than impressed with Blackstone.

Brian, Will there be a ComMod sale with each year release? Or just this one?

If you are looking at the FF5320 I am guessing you have been running a P551313?? The 5320 is 5µ and the P551313 is 3µ. Fleetguard has a new 3µ filter that I am running, the FF5814. What have you been running for a oil filter until now? The Fleetguard Stratapore is a good filter but not great. I have yet to find a filter that beats the Donaldson DBF7349. It has better flow ratings (2.5x the Fleetguard) and micron ratings than the Fleetguard. I get most of my filters from filterspro.com. I have found them to be the cheapest around. They don't carry the FF5814 and I have to get that from my local Cummins shop.

Yes a cam is awesome for spool. I Don't run overfueled so I didn't see much, if any, peak gains but the low-mid is great as well as the turbo response when towing in rolling hills and well pretty much everywhere.

Those sky cranes are impressive machines!

Maybe with 4.10's and at low (<4000) elevations but even then I am not convinced. I know what elevation does to my BB turbo and the Silver 62 is a much laggier turbo. Once spooled they move some air but they don't spool fast at mid range rpms.

Honestly unless you are very overfueled the peak gains may not show with a cam for much of the rpm band. The low-mid thorttle gain are great with a cam and you really feel them on spool. With the cam you chose I would expect to see a little more on the top end assuming that you continue to fuel past 2800. Cam's are great but they don't always make a big difference on the dyno, but in real life nothing but grins!! Dyno testing is really subjective anyhow. Did anyone read the towing turbo review where the Silver 62 won? Anyone who know the Silver 62 and how towing uses and engine/turbo combo knows that a Silver 62 is not a towing turbo but in a controlled dyno environment... well you get the picture.

Cummins does NOT recommend break-in oil in their motors and my builder has seen more than one initial failure on a Cummins from a break in oil. Here are my 0.02 on the subject. I personally like to change my oil more frequently on a new engine. More oil means more money, and more synthetic oil is even more money so dino it is. I think I had a little more blowby on the new engine as well since it smelled a lot more last summer after a long tow than this summer. I never lost any oil but I could smell it a little, so nothing to even think twice about. I do know that after we had our 1966 T-Bird with a 390 rebuilt we switch to synthetic too early for the rings as it started burning oil with synthetic. We went back to dino and had no burning and after a few thousand more miles it is back on synthetic and doesn't burn any. Rings do seat MUCH faster in a diesel and even faster in a turbo diesel but I sill think it isn't bad to run Dino... That being said the oil in the Cummins on the showroom floor is synthetic and the first oil change doesn't have to be done until you are told to by the EVIC and it is a full service schedule change. I also don't know if they get any run time at the factory and an oil change. My personal oil change schedule after the rebuild was... 0 miles: Mobil Delvac 1300 and a 57620 Oil filter (builder choice/supplied) with Hamilton ZDDP additive 477 miles: Valvoline Premium Blue, ELF7349 EaBP-110 and a bottle of ZDDP 3026 miles: Valvoline Premium Blue, ELF7349, and a bottle of ZDDP 5659 miles: Valvoline Premium Blue, ELF7349, and a bottle of ZDDP 7692 miles: Amsoil AME 15w-40, ELF 7349, and a EaBP-110. I used the same bypass for all 3 Valvoline changes. I could have gone longer on the 3rd change but was coming up on Elk season and I wanted synthetic in the pan for potentially COLD weather in the mountains. I no longer use ZDDP since I run CI-4+ oil. At my last oil change I did a UOA and had plenty of Zinc after 7,730 miles.

Let me put another perspective on it. The airspace over Michaels house is in a no fly for fire fighting purposes.

That was later in the afternoon, between 1730 and 1900. McCall was clear but as soon as we got near the Seven Devils it got very think and we couldn't make it as far as Whitebird.

Here are a few from the south and west. The smoke was very thick to the N-NW and pretty hazy on the W side.

You don't need to find a ditch, just fill the NV5600 thru the fill hole in the FAST coolers.

Before I bought a commuter car I was averaging in the 15-16 range but now that I have a commuter and a heavier/bulkier setup for camping my average is way down. The last 16,607 miles, 21 months, has had an average of 13.44 with 39% of the miles with a trailer hooked up. I have had a low of 9.43 and the recent high of 18.77 for the same time frame. Those are also all on a new engine which should achieve better mileage as time goes on. I am quite certain it is mostly broken in thou :-)