JOHNFAK

Well I'll be the monkey here ........ I thought the boost fueling not only prevented CEL ... but also prevented defuel due to MAP sensor too high. eg ... http://www.madselectronics.com/faq.html Yes, all the the softwares in Smarty have modified boost tables in order to allow higher boost without defuelling. ^^ Indficates to me that if you exceed the MAP and overboost you will defuel - hence require boost fooler. Also .... with regard to the gate ..... generally on a stock auto there is not enough fuel to push well past the gate settings. What I mean is if your set at 25psi ...... even at full fuel youll be lucky to get to 35psi. So thats not a huge drop in performance. So the only thing that makes sense to me here is the gate wasn't closed ... it was in fact open ........ so it just added extra lag and EGT to the truck .......... OP - if you want your truck to really do what its capable of with pulling and driving ..... the same mods are night and day. In fact ... if you can find someone with a smarty that will download onto your truck to let you take it for a ride .... then take it off ..... best way to test if you like it or not ........ you dont want to keep it on without a trans VB at minimum.

Doubt the wastegate is having too much effect. P0236 your probably defueling ..... need a boost fooler. These trucks suck in stock form for autos. You need Boost fooler Bigger sticks or fueling module VB upgrade (and ideally TC).

good thing about the super-b is if you decide to stick a s400 frame charger under it later - its easy and a more importantly a good match to notch you up another 200HP. Like W&F said - good place to start ........ that transmission is not going to hold if your using that power heavy ....so your either going to have to use it as a core eventually or when it starts to go have it rebuilt onsite.

Yeah I definitely have enough fuel ... it's more just about the size of the turbine. Be being you have to push so much fuel into it from idle before your on top of it .... That was surprising bit .... I'm actually thinking of going bigger with a spool valve ....

Subscribed. Nice stuff diesel4life

If you put the truck in drive and no throttle does it pull hard in 1st ?

Yeah I have some POR 15 in shed ...... Hard to remove the line and then move the truck though ....... dont have easy access to other vehicle Will let you know part # when I do it ....... just wanted to make sure there were no special tools required or any hints .....

So I think you told me .... but when you visting here next ?? Going to swing by ?

Btw what do you mean by rust treatment ..... never had a rust issue before

This and the front spindle/bearings are the worst of it. I'll replace the front when I do ball joints not yet needed. Worst is right here .. I found prebent stainless steel brake lines for 400 if I need else might just flare and run them myself. Basically brake lines and power steering lines ... worst In the pic

No ... The truck made over 1000 hp on twins and with timing advanced further ... I'd guess it's closer to 600 hp right now on a single .... but thinking hard of putting twins on it .... Biggest surprise for me was how good the 66 was at the bottom end .... Spooled much quicker than I thought ....

That's a good deal. $300 gets you into a quick spooling he351cw if you can fab a cold pipe. Plus $60 on flange and clamp ...

Probably keep it as my secondary and stick a s478 under it ..... Not 100% sure yet ....

Guys do it and port the manifold as well. Am sure it will help with spool ... but it's a lot of work. I'd step up turbos unless you have a good deal on turbine

Cast 63 on left and billet 66 on right

Went from a clipped 63/68/14 ED to a similar 66/74/14 ED turbo .... Lag and spool up wasn't bad ... i still have too much fuel though. I'll either have to dial it back or go twins .... 60 psi out of the 66 .... pegging 1400

Never replaced my TRE but the 3rd gen track bar conversion was pretty good. Id say anything that has the most slop or damage to exiting bushing between teh track bar and steering linkage would probably have most impact.

Do it and post up a rebuild thread. I've heard good things for others .......... yes.

Its on ........ I'll let you guys know if it was worth it in the morning

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/yourphotos?pid=5969296138163193042&oid=110674740318864908664

ha ha thanks guys heres a pic of the the little problem - its probably the worst rust area on truck - around the PS and brake lines

So spoke with Glenna (wife) and she said to pass on this link which she sent to Bill which gives everyone a good understanding of where things are at in Florida right now - http://www.miamiherald.com/2014/01/08/3859626/legislation-is-fast-tracked-to.html. She is a realtor in the St Pete/Redington Beach area of Florida and in summary there are still a lot of balls in the air - but generally speaking the private sector is coming to the plate and providing policies for a lot of the homes at affordable rates. It still depends on each property and its flood zone and its flood history if the property can be insured in private market or not or has to go under FEMA and actuary rates. Anyway - long story short - if you want help in getting info or getting hooked up with either a good realtor or insurance agent in the southwest region of florida- PM me and I will pass on her details. thx John

Hey gang ........ I'll have my wife post in here sometime today hopefully. She's much more up to speed with the flood stuff being a realtor down here but the net effect of it is it loks like whilst flood insurance will go up ...... it will be much more in line with what you'd expect to pay ...... reworded ....."affordable". Still not cheap and each scenario is a little different I think based on flood elevations and flood damage history on a property ...... So a lot of people that were getting quotes of $10k-$50k per year are now being covered for closer to the $4k I mentioned above ..... I'll let her do the remainder of updating soon

2 questions 1) How to determine which hose I need based on ABS ..... rear wheel or four wheel ABS eg There are about 9 variations of this on rockauto ... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2159754&cc=1362057 2) How to remove and install ... rusty on mine ...... never done it but assume like most things its relatively simple ....... any special tools or requirements thx