JOHNFAK

Glad you got is sorted. Your sig says stock so your probably ok with a a stock LP together with the fuel warning light - but you may want to try and save for a FASS/AIRDOG and some gauges at some stage - like white01 said - especially cause you would like that stock truck so much better with even just a small programmer (EZ) ........ and if you go bigger - its just night and day. I think Mike has an article showing that even though cummins recommend minimum 10psi ..... the fuel return only actively cools above 12 or 14psi or something .......... either way a working truck is SOOOO much better than a dead one

Nice cars there :P I wanna pickup an old beater that still runs for under $15k ................. like $10k. Then over next 3-5 years build her up New paint, new upholstery, clean and overhaul engine, add some performance parts etc. Something that I can learn on as I go and be a nice car to own when I am done.

Brand new batteries and the connectors never looked so clean Can the APPS cause a jump up/down in RPM if it was not calibrated correctly or misaligned somehow??? Going to do the APPS reset tonight ............ but just stabbing in dark as we moved this .... because of the RPM move .... thinking not injectors (miss) ......... thoughts ? --- Update to the previous post... Man - I wish it was a 220 typical buck ........ unfortunately - its a 24(v) buck ....... Going to be interesting to see what the bucking feels like with 9000lbs towing behind me tonight

Hey man yeah similar - just started for me ....... going to have to monitor - hate to tow 1600 miles with issues like this though - no choice now - leaving WED :P Wonder if I could be getting air in the fuel somehow - don't think so with my 2 micron fuel seperator - --- Update to the previous post... hey guys ok - I may have been mis-stating the symptom. I drove it a bit more and its not realy a bucking - its actually like a drop up/down in rpm when cruising ..... and especially happens when you have started to slow down, then step on the throtle to speed back up - starts to jump up/down in rpm. So 2 thoughts were 1) Tranny - we took out the a/c clutch and wondering if somehow I know picked up the voltage "NOISE" issue. It doesnt feel like its shifting gear - and happens at all speeds (30, 45, 50, 60) so far. So not totally buying this one yet. 2) TPS - we had the throttle linkage off to the side when we did the injectors in order to get to the injector lines. Could something be miscalibrated now - where it cant get fuel/throttle settings quite right ? I thought there was a reset for this with battery disconnect as well as pushing throttle all the way dow ?? Can't find it - worth doing it ??

thats a nice looking car (just googled) Why this one ?? Some key factors I would need I think would be * Good Car to 'learn' on ..... nothing too over the top - hoping that pre-electronic they all should be ok * Easy enough to get parts if required - if I need something later * Nice to drive etc * HP adjustable/buildable in case I wanted to try ? * Other ???

HeySince I have the bug with my diesel to do some work and learn about cars (something I didn't before 1 year back) I was thinking about buying an old car to work on. Can I get a list of vehicles you guys consider great 'classics' - especially for working on engines and rebuilding. It will become a project car. Diesel and non-diesel. Only criteria is it has to be built PRIOR to 1989. eg 1988 or lower. This way I can take back to AUS when I eventually go back. Thinking so far of Late 1960's Ford Mustang FastBackLate 1960's Camaro1969 corvette stingray etc Don't know american muscle too much - so whats a good one and why ? Wanna get one that moves with original engine/transmission for under $15k - ideally needs new paint, interior , some engine parts and an overhall of engine (but not rebuild) as I need it to be driveable for 2-3 years Other things I am not thinking of ?

Sounds like input shaft - like W+F said ......... my understanding is if you have nothing (F or R) then thats the likley culprit - whilst an output will create all kinds of havoc/noise - but the output can be fixed without tranny drop. I guess tehnically you could have a TC failure - eventually the TC clutch could be so worn it just spins - but not really sure - thinking you would have seen a bunch of clutch dust over last tranny fluid change and would have noticed some slipping prior to this if that was case. Funny thing about the input shaft is from what I have read they generally break under boosted launching or very high HP ....... or hard lockps with 3x disk TC ........... do you know if you had been towing and moved into lockup ?? Anyway - either way if there's no sounds and you have no gears - your probably going to have to drop it to know for sure. Where are you getting rebuilt and cost ?? Only thing is if it is your input shaft ..... and your clutches/bands are fine - then your tranny might not need a rebuild and that could waste some $$ ....... (W+F - can a snapped band do same thing ?? ) --- Update to the previous post... Should be able to disconnect one of the lines and allow the tranny to cycle fluid out (out line) - just have someone pouring atf back in the other end .... to check pump flow. Flex plate - you might be able to take off the inspection plate at bottom and rotate the flexplate to inspect for cracks especially around the TC bolts.

Yeah kinda sitting on 60mph cruise control .... and it will buck a couple of times like missing fuel ........Happened about 4-5 times over last 2 days.Happened once at around 35mph.I tried flooring it to see what my fuel pressure was doing and if it happened under heavy fuel demand - no bucking and 14psi

Hey Mike"edge filters in the connector tube" - whats this - heard you mention before but not sure ?? Guessing your saying there is a low (2 ?) micron filter in the connector tube - but still if this was holding something that would restrict flow to the injector right until broken up ? In that case I was hoping when I tow on WED the EGT's getting up would help break things up and clean the injector nossles - but no idea whats causing this ...... a little concerned it feels similar to a flow restriction of some kind - but my pressure is constant........ can't afford another vp44Stalling - unsure - unfortunately I haven't had a cold enough day to test - it hasnt stalled since - but it still drops a fair bit - ISX mentioned that it satlled on him when it was cold - so still waiting for a cold day to come - as we are off to AZ for the winter to work out of the phoenix office. Will be keeping a closer eye on it though and posting when I can determine for sure.john

HeyDriving today on highway - and around 60mph the truck starts to 'buck' gently like its missing fuel ?? Pressure gauge says 14 @ WOT and 16-17 regular.Me and ISX just put the old injectors out and put the oem ones back in (for the stall issue). It doesn't idle rough or appear to be missing (assumming missing in a diesel would sound like a rough idle/egnine etc).Not sure - Might stick some 2 stroke in it tomorrow - could one of the injectors be plugged/partial blocked ??

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm FWIW: The HY-35 and HX-35 are functionally equivalent under most engine loads, and the wastegates on both turbos are set for the same boost level. The HY-35 does not breathe as well as the HX-35 at higher speeds under a heavy load. The choke point of the HX35 is around 35psi; the HY35 chokes at about 29psi. --- Update to the previous post... and The HX-35 and HY-35 turbochargers are rated for a maximum boost of 44 PSI. To safely reach 44 PSI, the turbine housing MUST be sized to keep the choke point above 40 PSI. The 12 cm2 housing chokes at about 32 PSI and the 9 cm2 single port housing chokes at somewhere below 30 PSI, so be careful about pushing the stock turbocharger beyond 30 PSI!

glad you got it fixed - sucks for $1k did you ever pull any codes ??

A lot of people stack as different chips/programmers do it differently at each end. eg Smarty is stacked with edge/adrenaline as the smarty provides better low end responsiveness - and the edge/adrenaline then gives you your fuel/power on the high end. Plus some saftey stuff built into each. But like mike said - if you stack your meant to run them on certain settings.

Going to be 47 degrees tomorrow morning ........ will try and see what it goes from(rpm) and to(rpm) as well as tranny temp then. --- Update to the previous post... Outside temp was 55. Tranny Temp was 65. Not as cold as I wanted. Never even looked like stalling. Gonna have to wait until a real cold morning to test for sure. However it was definately stalling in temps over this - so - between batteries (no idea) and injectors - 'appears' to be fixed. Obviously leaning to injectors.

Here's the original PIC i used to source my buckle - shows sizeShows how to install much better than I could take a pic of it now that its on. Helps having 2nd person - 1 to hold in place - and other to tighten

hahaI like that response - "paint by numbers" you should add a small version to your SIG

Make sure to get a good shift kit / valve body if your an auto !!!

These look ok for price. No experience with them tho. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT-S&partnum=675R6GEOATS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Dodge&autoYear=2001&autoModel=Ram%202500%20QuadCab%204wd&autoModClar= what are the BG's goona cost ?

Not sure - maybe 200rpm - from 850 to 600. Seems a little better. So will have to monitor over comming days and see if it feels like its going to stall. Keep u all posted. Yeah that back #6 sucked butt .... and not the good kind (is there a good kind ? ) .......... and yes you did hold my hand all the way through - but you said we wouldn't tell the boys incase that got lost in translation. Will send you some flowers in the morning

Me and ISX put on the $3 turnbuckle from lowes last night. Set the edge to alert on 30+ PSI. Never been over 23 psi prior - hit 30+ PSI 3 times in our 10 minute drive

Well - ISX and I replaced the rv275's with the stock injectors last night. Was late so made trip home no issues.This morning was a little cool (seems to stall more when cold) ..... with tranny temp around 57 degrees (seems to stall more when cooler). No stall. So will have to monitor and update over the comming days. But interesting. Thanks for your help ISX - on this and the other stuff (oh is this the place to mention I had all the injector lines, horn, throttle etc off before isx had the cooler relay done ?? a couple of wires - hahahha ) - well its not quite true - but thats my story that I'm sticking with.

Hey casey. Yeah - look I think thats a good point - being above the skid plate and kinda tucked behind the transfer case I think its mostly fine - but probably worth an inspection from time to time. I don't think rain would be too much of an issue - and you could angle the mount on a 45 degree to help it run off more (that was the design jim had). You could also block it off some more if youd like with a "splash" guard of some sort - the fan really just sucks (or pushes) air over the fins - so as long as its getting air - even from behind - its circulating that into the cooler. hope that makes sense p.s I did see one guy put it up front behind the drivers headlight - very tight in there - but possible and being forward of the wheels almost no chance of rain. I'd go with a splash guard and/or a 45 degree mount maybe

I had a burnt/cracked valve seat - or where the "valve head" seats in the block head. Anyway - it sounded like a ticking - but it was constintly there. I had no surging or any other symptoms - just the tick. Sound slike its comming straight from the block, passenger side - and its loudest when you put your ear to air intake. Also had missing 6th bolt on manifold. But no surge/lope/miss. john

Awesome pics.ok - for the juniors here - whats the quick step guide for doing something like this. Not that I would do it without someone with me who had done it before - but what are the "main" steps. I was looking at the pics and wondering - where did the transmission go ?? Never seen an engine taken out apart from TV where the remove the enine block and tranny all in one go - smaller cars. So basic overview of steps ? I heard there are only a few bolts holding the block to the frame :shrug:But assume as well as removing fuel/wiring harnesses/vacuums/coolant radiator/exhaust/belts etc you also have to de-couple from transmission .... and other stuff ?? How many hours work ? IN and out ?

Hey guysKinda confused here ............ Cracked injector bore - but jnoe had the issue PRIOR to putting in new 50HP DDP injectors right ? Cracked exhaust valve seat - wouldn't this cause gas to potentially leak out of the head - and basically sound like a 'tick' or and exhaust type sound (like an small exhaust leak) - rather than "missing" ?? dunno