notlimah

You'll have to update us after you tow something or get some more miles on it to see how they're working out. Is the only difference the width in the rotor? I hear ya on the tires though, I'm on 315's right now because that's what the truck came with but I'll be going down to 285's when the time comes to replace them.

Sorry, that question was for trreed! lol I am curious about the difference as well though!

Whys having the smaller tires a downside for you? Looks good though, Id like to put 4th gen wheels on mine as well.

I didn't take out anything from the raptor pump on my 99. It's just in the stock location with big line kit to the VP and that's it. I do get a fairly drastic fuel pressure swing but it's too be expected given the setup. On the 02 and the FASS 150, again nothing removed from the lift pump and I'm running the 1/2in auction line straight into my modified fuel basket with the drawstraw 5, no screens removed but I did drill holes. I see 17-19psi occasionally 16psi when cold, that's it.

So pulling fuel through that stock strainer in the basket creates that much restriction? I have my strainer in the bottom of the basket as per Eric's recommendation to leave it, but I've never seen pressure below 16psi so I'm not going to start fooling with it now, but definitely good to know.

I agree with @dripley, I don't think the fuel going back directly into basket makes that noticeable of a difference. Yea fuel pressures seem to increases slightly once the trucks been run for a while but that's more likely just the entire fuel tank warming up. I have a raptor pump on my 99 and it'll gain an extra psi or 2 after driving for a while. It seems like something is restricting flow which in turn is raising your supplied pressure more then it should. Maybe that higher flow filter really is all that's causing it.

I know these raptors don't have the same returns as the airdogs and FASS systems but when I was seeing the exact same thing it was because my return spring and ball was all messed up. Makes me think that maybe your return line is clogged with debri. If it were I could see that higher resistance in that line causing higher pressure in your supply line. Does seem weird that filters seems to make the problem appear or disappear. Again, maybe just be due to a higher or low resistance in those filters causing some irregular pressure fluctuations.

Haha nah just the light reflection. It's actually cheaper then the mag pan.

Just a little teaser of what's coming next week!

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Where did you pick up your new ECM?

Hey Mike, curious how much fluid was needed to flush the entire system? Also, any recommendations for DOT3? I was kind of just thinking of going with the Wal-Mart super tech stuff, but curious what you used.

As far as I've read there's no real way to check the overflow valve. I imagine if you have a regulated air pressure hose you could possibly check it but really don't know if you could verify it's functionality just by looking and blowing air through it.

I had issues with one ISSPRO mechanical fp gauge. It would increase pressure until it got until 14psi and it would just stick. If I knocked against the gauge it would move up slowly, but never up to where I'd seen it prior. Called ISSPRO and they had a new gauge sent out to me by the time we hung up the phone. Didn't need to get the old gauge back or anything so if that's something you really suspect being the issue, you shouldn't have a problem getting a replacement. I tend to agree with IBM and jlbayes, in that flow is restricted somewhere. Could be the return valve sticking at the VP, could be the a kink or something in the fuel lines or line to the gauge. If all of that checks out ok, then I'd say something internal with the pump. When my FASS was doing the same, it was the return spring and ball that was causing it.

VCO is what stockers are right?

If I were you I'd call either Jon @Dynamic or the folks at Goerend. Either of them will give you some great insight into what would work best in your truck and how you want to use it.

Well finally finished! Ugh! It kicked my butt I must admit. I've never done one before so I went it a little over confident. A lot easier getting the old pump off then it is putting the new one on. When I started the truck for the first time after getting everything put back together I couldn't even budge the wheels even with them on old baking sheets. So stupid me thought, "oh if I just get it moving, I'll be able to turn the wheel!" *in Trump voice* WRONG! Needless to say, brakes obviously didn't work so I rolled down my driveway, luckily not hitting anything. By that point I had no choice but to go around the block. Worst 3 minute drive ever!! It was like someone was actually trying to keep me from steering the thing! Well left with a full reservoir and returned with an empty one. I got a little smarter and put the truck on jacks and kept the truck running pumping the brakes and turning the wheels. That made pretty quick work of things and it kept the reservoir full after just one cycle. Test drive proved IBM correct, the pump was making some noise, but checked levels once I got back and all was fine. I over filled for now assuming it'll need it, but I'll keep a close eye on things the next few days and I'm carrying a funnel and PS fluid just in case. Thanks for all the help guys! Oh yea, truck steering AMAZING now, about as good as my 2wd with stock tires and I'm on 315's right now!

Thanks IBM, I did turn the engine on for a second or two twice just because the first time i expected a lot more fluid to come out. Second time had similar results so I just left it. I did suction out the reservoir prior to opening the lines to the box just to lower the amount of fluid draining. I then poured more back into the reservoir and that's when i turned the engine on expecting a lot of fluid to end up in my container and not much was there. So I called it good and buttoned everything back up. In the process of getting as much purged now as I can.

Got it So I have the old pump off, just poured fresh fluid in reservoir. Didn't get much out of the lines so I'm calling that good. All you did to prime was pump brakes and turn the wheels while adding fluid?

Hey guys, about to put in my blue-top box I got and wanted to make sure I was thinking this through correctly. The following sound ok? 1. To flush out the old lines I plan on having the old box off, and just running fresh power steering fluid through the reservoir for a 1/2-full quart. 2. Once everything back together I plan on putting fluid in reservoir until 3/4 full, starting truck and first, pumping brakes, then checking fluid, add as neccessary, then turning wheels full lock one way, checking fluid, full lock the other way, then checking fluid. That sound about right for doing this?

I'm subbing to this. I think my A/C is pretty much non-existent. I don't mind as I usually just have the windows down, but with the wife and little one, it's preferable.

I'm planning on making roughly 450ish maybe 500 if I'm lucky with a 62/65/12, 7x.009-.010 injectors and quad adr. I'm sure I'll post more about specifics once it happens but after dropping the money for the trans, it's going to be a while before that happens haha

Gotcha! It actually sounds like he quoted you for his stage 2 which he rates up to 450ish and is the same as I stated just without a billet input. I'm 100% stock power wise right now, I'm just getting the trans ready for future power.

Thanks for that info! I too wouldn't mind a Goerend but from what Jon's said, for the price difference you're really seeing nothing different performance wise so you're just paying for the name at that point. I still debate on it thinking if I'm already spending this much, why not a few more but we're not exactly talking chump change overall either haha 1. Sorta confused on what's being asked in the first bit, but 4.500ish from Jon will get you a stage 3 rated to 550-600ish hp. Triple disk converter, billet input, more clutchs, vb customization. 2. If the trucks drivable just take her out there! 3 days is what he sets you up for in hopes the third days just a backup. Your other options up to you if you want/can shell out for the extra labor. Me personally, I'm driving out there and dropping off my truck to him and staying the week, but I'm also 6+ hours away from him. I've seen a positive review from a shop in Marysville, Ed's I think? But clearly you can tell what my preference is as Marysville is just over an hour away from me.

That's good to hear, and the fact that they're made here in WA is a bonus.

Oh man, prices must've changed a bit since then. I think he said the Cascade was 1100 and the Goerend was 1400