notlimah

Thanks, I'll definitely bring that up to him when we talk next. I'm pretty sure I asked before and I think he did say to just run the temp out of the pan, but I'd be interested to hear his reasoning behind it if that's actually what he recommends.

Glad to hear you got it worked out. You won't have any issues running the edjwaun-tapped, you essentially just have have a canbus tuner. So long as you know and are ok with that then good to go!

That's the hard line right? Did you tap it? Question for @Russ Roth and @crf450ish, did you guys go with the cascade converter in your builds?

Almost sounds like when cycling through on the high idle switch you'll get a quick engine rev or slight lug then back to normal. Maybe your IAT or coolant sensor is on the fritz causing your timing to be all over the place? A live data tool like the obdii would answer that question.

I think once the sump is in place it'll stay there. I believe I've seen a video of one being drug all over while still being attached to an actual tank and it held fine. The bigger concern imo is the fuel lines getting ripped off or torn.

I'm personally not a fan of running a sumo but I know tons of people run then without issues both mechanically and legally. Whether it's actually legal or not I won't comment but I prefer the factory like liberty module. Definitely on the spendy side, but I really like that setup. I'm running a drawstraw 5 and it's basically the DIY version of that liberty module.

That looks like a typical aftermarket setup for fuel basket, although I don't know Airdog/raptors quality in regards to that. I'd 100% trust a fuel module from Eric @Vulcan but fwiw, it looks identical to the one you already have so again, really just a matter of quality one way or another.

Asked him and he said that he doesn't drill any holes in the input shaft but does drill holes for added flow/lube, just not directly into the shaft. He also stated that stock stall speeds are roughly 2000rpm, maybe slightly higher, and that for a stock truck up to my future turbo (62/65/12) he recommends going with a 'slight lower then stock' converter and said it should fall roughly around 1750ish-rpm. Anything bigger and he recommended closer to stock stall speed. I'm also going to have him install a Goerend flex plate which is says is typically needed around the 500hp range.

Seems like maybe it's a normal thing for them to cycle regardless of temp for a quick bit then once temp starts reading correctly (or above 60*) then they shut off?? I'll check mine once I leave work and see if it does it.

I was just thinking along the line of if part of the system is out of spec, could be causing unforeseen issues in the rest of the system. Does it ever turn off? Have you checked the smaller wires that connect the ecm to the relays? Might be loose or dirty? Otherwise I might just be because of your ppump. Was it doing it prior? Any codes?

Guess I should've asked the most obvious question.... is the tank full? Any chance your getting air in the lines causing the drop? @JAG1 that sounds like a return spring/ball issue. Saw something similar on my FASS so assuming your 150 has a return spring/ball, I'd check there.

If I were you and had the whole thing apart already and the money to do it, I'd make sure all my lines were 1/2in just to be done with it and never have to worry again. I'd also go with a Liberty module from Vulcan.

Something possibly off in the plumbing. Did you use a big line kit? How's the return plumbing routed? Might also check for pinched fuel line, or possibly your tank is having issues venting. Sorry I know that's a lot of random stuff but just the first things that came to mind. I've never experienced this so I don't have a more direct route for you to check. Maybe someone else will and can chime in.

Hmm, have you gone through and checked the steps HERE. Mainly the resistance at the different areas it says. I did mine a while ago and found my grid heater out of specs so I replaced it.

Was gonna to say, might want to double check to make sure they didn't accidentally send out the wrong part. Glad you got it figured out.

I already out that article together Mike. I think I was asking in another thread if you were going to be able to put a wheel bearing article together?

Looks normal too me. There should be four bolts holding the stock turbo.

What kinda grease and where do you put it in at?

Dont you know how easy it is for me to spend your money?!

Glad you got rescued Mike! Sorry to hear about all the troubles your trucks been giving you lately. One things for sure is you're making me nervous about my trip out to Dynamic next month! Every time I read about someone else's issues it immediately makes me feel like my truck will do the same for some reason! I can't be the only one though right?! Anyways, planning on another write up for the wheel bearing?!

Honestly I'm surprised you were running the 12cm housing for so long!

You'll be happy once you get the mirrors mounted. So much nicer!!

I think a refresh on the vp44 install article and tapped gasket would be awesome!

Well you can still get the green lense cover for the regular bulbs @JAG1. That's what I have on my a pillar gauges now.

What led bulbs did you use @joeld79? They work on isspro gauges.