notlimah

If I'm remembering what he said correctly, he said for stock chargers up to about a 62 sized charger he runs a stall speed around 2-300 lower then stock. Said any bigger charger and it would lag with that lower stall speed and that he typically just leaves it at stock stall speed for guys running huge chargers.

You happen to know where to get clamps for a VP44? Pretty sure a couple of mine fell off

What charger are you going with now?

Welcome aboard!

Well, the day's finally come!!! Called and setup my appointment with Jon so he can set me up with a proper transmission! I can't wait to finally have a trans that I won't have to worry about and then I can start looking at some more power! I'll keep this thread up to date on my trip out there and try and snap a few pics here and there and then any follow on stuff once I have the trans installed.

Exactly why I want it gone!

Same here, I got rid of all the hoses when I put my FASS in. Might go ahead and do this now. What grade bolts did you go with?

Gotcha, and all you had to do to get rid of the filter was just unbolt it and put in those shorter bolts? For some reason I thought it was more complicated then that lol

Ohh ok, I thought you were removing the stock fuel filter not the lift pump.

What did you use for the stock fuel filter delete?

That seems weird to me. That's basically zero dampening from the vp's water hammer. What pressure is the gauge reading? Does it fluctuate at all?

Yea I mean, I'd go through every check to verify my VP was bad before I started shelling out the money for a new one. Still not getting any VP codes? I know its possible for the VP to fail with no codes but from my understanding is it's fairly rare. Blue Chips procedures should give a pretty definitive answer as to whether the pump is bad or not. Let us know what you find!

whoa whoa! Just because fuel pressures dropped below 5psi doesn't mean your VP44 is toast! It's definitely not good for it, but it's not an instant killer. Is the pump under warranty? If not, I'd just ride out this pump until you have a VP44 death code. At the very least walk through Blue Chip's procedures for checking if your VP44 is toast. A dry overflow return valve to me just indicates that the valve was just bad.

yea simple steps first! New fluid, pads and rotors are all relatively cheap compared to brand new calipers.

Wheel bearings? Can you physically see the pads dragging? I tend to think bad pads and/or warped rotors before bad calipers. If you can afford the truck to be down a bit longer maybe just change pads and rotors and see if that fixes it. If not then you can look at either bad calipers or bearings.

Are the ac delco's from Napa?

Was this post meant for Tyler's build thread? Otherwise I'm just getting confused! Something about that Colorado air!

I agree as far as slotted rotors, they're a waste of time/money, at least on our trucks. Just stick with the oem style. Are you positive your caliper is shot? I would for sure replace rotors and pads but what indications are you getting that your caliper is bad as well? I'll throw in another vote for Vulcan and one phone call to Eric and he'll have you setup with every thing you need gauge wise in a nice package deal. How many miles are on the truck/trans? Could just be long over due for a tune up or refresh. I'd also advise against adding any more power at this point, especially if you're seeing the issues you currently are. Adding power will only make things worse! I just recently added a quad xzt I forgot I had laying around and even though I drive like a granny and the trans is fine now, I'm fully anticipating needing to get my trans build soon, and that's not even counting towing. If I do tow, I turn that off. The tire size as Mike put, is really a huge factor. Currently on my 02 I have 315s on there and my 99 I have stock tire size. It's night and day how differently they drive. Granted, they're completely different trucks but the 99 with smaller tires is night and day easier to drive.

Welcome aboard! Nice lookin rig!

Nice, do you feel like the trucks turning over quicker/easier now?

Jeez does it really take that long?!

@CSM I'll keep that in mind about the hub bearings. If they look ok I'll leave them be. As far as springs, I was more meaning front coils from thuren or something. It'd be awesome to get some custom leaf springs from atlas or carli but they're pricey and not really necessary. As far as the "motor and squirrel cage fan out and see if your current core is just dirty" if you're referring to the one under the glove compartment, I had that apart not too long ago to install the heater treater and it was pretty clean. I can still get warm air but the truck needs to be pretty close to 190* and it definitely doesn't feel as hot as it should. I figure between wanting a new dash and that, might as well get them both done at the same time. I'll check out air lift bags. Thanks @Mopar1973Man & @Silverdodge Good to hear the stuff from RockAuto will work out well and last a bit. I was hoping to not have to spend a premium on most of these things.

And boost boots was something else I wanted to do, thanks!

Thanks for the input @dripley always good to get your thoughts on the matter. Ya know after writing all that out I have no clue how I'm going to find all the time to do this!

Well with the weather and day light times slowly moving towards towards warmer and longer, I'm getting together a list of things (mainly common preventative maintenance stuff) thing I'd like to get done. I have some questions regarding each so help me out! 1. Brakes: I'm pretty sure the PO got them done (probably just pads) just before I bought it but I'd like to redo the rotors and pads. Anything special here I should be looking at brand wise or pad material? Geno's sells hawk pads, are they any good? 2. Ball Joints: I've read through @Me78569 thread on his quest to find some, so were the spicer ones from Dennys able to get the job done? 3. Hub Bearing: should I just do these since I'll be taking the rotor off? I can't seem to figure out if the 02's are the ones that are a pain to get apart or if it's the 2000 and older trucks? 4. Starter: I'll probably go with a rebuild kit from LarryB's but could anyone tell me how involved this is? 5. Heater Core: Pretty obvious this winter that my core is not pumping out enough heat, even when fully warm so I plan on getting in there and replacing it. Any suggestions on heater cores? I've heard pros and cons for both the ones with the swivel ends and the ones that are completely rigid. I'll probably try and do a dash replacement at this time too since I'll basically have it all apart. 6. Other miscellaneous stuff I'd like to do are airbags, shocks and springs, and ideally smaller tires. I'll leave it at this for now. Thanks in advance!