notlimah

So you're sitting on the side of the highway?!?

Ok, to check the coolant plug can it just be unscrewed and checked like the IAT sensor? What's weird is I'm showing it correctly fool the IATs but not coolant. It will also sometimes go into a 3cyl high idle even when not selected.

Hey guys, rather gen starting another high idle thread, figured I'd throw this here. Noticed the other day that my switch isn't changing the coolant temp via my obd reader. Anything simple I can check?

I definitely don't like all the new electronics and EGRs and such. Seems to only limit/restrict the engine, but you have to be "environmentally conscious" now a days, which is just another reason I'll keep my 2nd gen as long as possible. I was only asking because it seems more wide spread with the newer diesel guys that they think cetane boosters and the like were more designed and function better on the newer diesels.

They do offer a spring and ball replacement. I went through two replacements from FASS before I tried the Airdog spring and ball from Vulcan performance. Not sure what's different with the springs but the ball that FASS uses is a Buna ball and the one Airdog uses is a Viton ball and they're pretty different.

Even with the EGR and newer electronics and all?

Mike are the newer diesels more positively affected by cetane boosters? A guy I work with is a power stroke guy and he swears by his cetane booster. I think he has an 08 but he's constantly saying he's getting much better fuel mileage then without, and he's not the lying/overembelishing type either.

Hmm, it would seem that the spring wasn't causing enough pressure onto the ball to keep fuel pressure happy. Glad you got it fixed!

Yea that's all I got. I can't say 100% that it'll work on the DDRP. If it does have a return spring and ball then I would imagine it would. Remember I was using this on a FASS 150 so I'm unfamiliar with the DDRP. It's been working fine in my FASS 150, still in there as I'm typing this. As far as the fitting, I was only looking at another because mine was getting a little beat up from taking it on and off so much and I didn't want to use another FASS fitting. But it turns out that the Airdog fitting won't work on the FASS 150, it was compressing the spring too much and I couldn't get the fitting to completely seat, so I just kept the FASS fitting. This works well if you're having low fuel pressures. Problem is when the Buna ball becomes indented and the spring gets out of whack you start seeing the erratic stuff. That's when better materials are needed, hence the Viton ball and airdog spring. If pressures are just low then shim away!

They're pretty quick to blame other things other then it possibly being the pump. It's a real shame how they do that and had I known that prior to buying I would've gone a different route, because they've given me the same type of responses. I know it seems weird to replace the spring and ball since pressures are spiking but what is more the likely happening is the spring has twisted or contorted itself so it's not providing a even seal against the pump using the ball. Also, the ball has more than likely indented itself into the pump weakening that seal the spring and ball are trying to achieve. No need for a custom spring. Just call Eric at Vulcan Performance and get a 17lb spring and Viton ball. They're on his website as well. I had similar fuel pressure on my 150 setup and finally replaced it with what I just mentioned and now fuel pressure sits between 17-19psi all the time. You guys should read my thread here Basically starting from my post on August 15th should for the most part cover what you are experiencing @woodtrucker and what you're concerned about and how to possibly fix your concern @crf450ish

Does the DDRP have a return ball and spring? If so then I feel you'll just be wasting your time calling FASS. All they'll do is send you a new ball and spring and the same problem will come back eventually. Or want you to send your pump in all together for them to check it. I ran into almost exactly the same issue with me FASS 150 except with a LOT less miles on it, and swapped multiple ball and springs out supplied from FASS and nothing worked. It wasnt until I called up Eric and Vulcan and got a 17lb spring and ball from him that this issue went away. The main reason seems to be that they use a Buna ball and Vulcan (read Airdog) uses a Viton ball which is a strong, more robust material. If you search for my thread titled longer cranking, you can read through what I found out.

I'm not having starter issues, but like these other guys are saying, might be worth the preventive maintenance ya know?!

I ran through these procedures http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm according to that my grid heater is bad because of too much resistance and incorrect voltage at the feed terminals when they're cycling. I'm just not sure if the relays are bad as well due to incorrect voltage.

How good would this rebuild kit from Genos be? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/lb-r90ss/engine-rebuild-kits-3

Yea I'm sure they could be swapped. I'm just not sure they really NEED it just yet. The white smoke is only happening on cold, sat all night then starting up first thing in the morning starts. It's not struggling to start but it isn't happy but smooth's out after a few seconds. Once the temp gets up, it's running fine and I have no issues the rest of the day. After checking the intake heater and relays this morning, it's obvious I'm not getting heat from the heater. Didn't even feel warm after being on for 20-30seconds, plus I'm clearly not getting correct voltage to one of the heater feed terminals. So it seems like that's my main issue causing the white smoke or am I out to lunch on this one? My plan is to replace the batteries as I think this winter has put them past the point of no return. Grid heater will get replaced. Still waiting for someone to verify if should replace the relays as well (anyone?!?!), and I'm going to go ahead and order this starter solenoid rebuild kit from Geno's and change out that so hopefully it'll revitalize my starter and this thing should be starting like nobody's business! haha

Stock AFAIK so around 175k

Is there a rebuild kit for this? Or do I just get some new contacts from NAPA? Wonder if I would just be better off replacing the starter all together? I'm not sure if it's OEM or not, just assuming, but if it is, it has around 175k worth of starts on it. I'll probably go with the group 65s again and just modify my battery tray to make them fit.

Ok, finally got a chance to run through and check voltages and resistance explained HERE I have too high a resistance on my heater element, right around .4-.5. I cleaned the terminals and it dropped it to maybe .3-.4 but still according to the article, it's too high. Everything else checked out ok until it came to checking voltage with the truck running and grids cycling. Voltage to one heater element terminal was just over 12v and the other was some ridiculously high number, like 300v or something. Does that indicate a bad relay? Just trying to decide it the relay needs to be replaced as well as the heater element as well?

Thanks Mike. I put all brand new cables late last year so that shouldn't be an issue. Starters still probabaly oem but haven't had any indications it's on the way out.

Don't worry about it! I did the same thing, except I was already using 2stroke and thought the optilube might work better just based on the HFRR score but the more I looked into it (basically what was just said in this thread) made me realize that I'd prefer just running 2stroke.

Not sure what you paid for your cover Tyler, but I came across this when looking in case some other people were thinking of going the same route. https://www.hoeslidiesel.com/collections/1998-5-2002-cummins-24-valve/products/cast-aluminum-valve-cover

You guys might have sold me on interstates. I totally forgot my 99 has interstates in them and I can't tell you how long they've been in there, but I know it's been a long time. Problem for me is that both trucks need batteries at the same time so we're talkin buku bucks! Is there really a big difference between 810 and 850 CCAs? I might just shell out the extra 40 bucks a battery and go with mega-tron plus at 810 CCAs, what do you guys think?

Sounds good. I think I'll stick with the 810cca and 140rc with hopes it'll fit in the tray lol

Ah ok, well then is a group 27 a good enough battery for our trucks? It states 810 CCAs so that should meet above minimums right? Whatever size I have in there now definitely don't fit in the trays and my ocd is going bonkers hahahah

Ok, I'm going to revive this thread. My batteries have officially started to go. Started the truck after sitting the weekend and it turned over noticeably slower then it ever has. So it looks like I'm off to Walmart to get some new ones. Can someone verify that these group 27s will fit the factory battery bucket?? I believe these are what you use Mike but just wanted to double check before pulling the trigger.