notlimah

@Chris O. Whatdya say?! I'll be first in line for one of these once they get released! Mike, looks like you can do speedo changes as well for different tire sizes and such too?

Can I put my name down for a pre-order?!?

Man this thing looks awesome! I want one! What else can it do?

Nice choice! I was in the same boat as you a while ago and went with a FASS 150 just because I wanted the extra filtration but I was like really close to buying the fuel boss. Seeing threads like this make me wish I did go that route sometimes but so far so good with my FASS!

Welcome to the forum and great lookin truck!

I really hope this isn't the case for me as I've had a new one sitting on my bench for months and never installed it because everyone said it wouldn't be the issue and I didn't want to bother with it if I didn't need too.

I think you can still only go with one suction line if you wanted, but the option to buy a larger return line is there as well but I 100% agree, no point in having a bigger suction line if it can't get the unused fuel back in the tank just as quick.

Yes mine came with 2 1/2in lines, mine is from Vulcan, is yours? I have a 1/2in suction line the lift pump and a 1/2in return line for the lift pump. The 'floater' is my stock return line from the vp/inj

Yea because yours is going all the way to to the bottom after your drawstraw install. That pic was stock, here's after drawstraw installation. You can see how my stock return hose is just sorta floating up there in no mans land lol. What kind of metal hose/tube did you use? That might help solve my issue.

I don't think you're hurting it by having it submerged. I think I disagree with Mike here because I honestly think it should be submerged and it's what's causing my harder starts when my fuel gets below half tank and I'm on a hill. If the return line is constantly submerged it has no where to drain back, therefore no more harder starts. This is what my stock basket looked like before I modded it with the drawstraw 5 and it shows that the stock return line goes back into the bottom of the basket, probably right at the lip of the 'bowl' if you will.

It doesn't have any sort of check valve if that's what you're getting at. If it does drain, which is a common hard start problem, the only way I know of to 're-prime' that side of the fuel line would be to completely get the engine running again. I don't think you'd ever really get enough fuel everywhere it needs to go just by cycling your lift pump. Are you trying to drain it on purpose?

If you're referring to the stock return lines from the Vp and injectors, it should return back to the bottom of the basket as long as you haven't modified anything.

Just get that FASS on there and call it good!

pshhh, you're one of THOSE guys hunh?!

lol that would make sense! Not necessarily saying anything bad about them, just saying reading through threads on injector issues, they seem to be mainly DAP. More then likely due to their popularity and a lot of people having them so the likihood of reported 'issues' on injectors could be there's.

Seems like I've been reading about a lot of issues with DAP injectors lately.

I used ZEP from Home Depot. It says you're supposed to dilute it, but I didn't and it worked great. I went through and disconnected all electrical plugs and put dielectric grease in them prior to washing it down, and then just used my wide angle pressure washer tip and went to town. I was careful spraying directly at anything electrical, but it definitely still got wet.

Shouldve known it was Dauntless. Every thread that guy makes is gold. Wish he was on this forum too!

I'll keep that in mind when I do end up swapping! I just need to decide what size to go with and whether I go VCO or SAC. Unfortunately I have some other more pressing issues I want/need to take care of before I get to injectors so this probably won't happen any time soon, unless they really go bad.

Well, the truck is still 'smoking' but it's more of a blue-ish color, maybe because of the 2stroke? Either way the truck still seems to be running fine, but I am a bit concerned that my fuel mileage is dropping a bit, so not sure if that points towards colder weather and winter fuel or injectors finally on their last leg. Either way I'll probably start looking into some rv275s so when the day comes (and it warms up) I can make the swap.

Looking on the FASS website and this is what I found. Looks like the run at a lower psi? Maybe all I'd need would be a lighter spring. Anyone else have any idea on this?! Either way I'm looking forward to seeing how this is going to come out. Your truck is going to be the epitome of what everyone wants a second gen to be haha!

Awesome, I didn't know that you could tune the same with a ppump as a VP. I did think that there was different internals needed to supply enough fuel for the ppump? Like could I just use my FASS 150 for a ppump swap?

Damn man, that sucks! How does this change tuning with he quad? That out the door now? What about lift pump? Need a new one?

Yea I'm definitely keeping an eye on the VP but it only has 60k or so and as long as the PO didn't beat it up too bad (fingers crossed!) it should hopefully hold out for a bit longer. Still no error codes. The new grid heater and relays seem to have done the trick for the most part. Still not really cold temps but the white smoke was very little and didn't last nearly as long as before. It started easier then it did before so I think it was definitely not working correctly before. Still need to get new batteries and I want to get the starter rebuilt. I think that will really make a big difference!

Quick update: I just went ahead and got a new grid heater and relays. I couldn't really find a good answer as to whether both the heater and relays were bad so just replace them both. Nice and shiney! Did my best to scrape off the remaining gasket but it was on there pretty good so took an exacto knife and some 600 grit sand paper once it was gone and cleaned up everything with the shop vac after and called it good. Got everything else buttoned back up and all the wires swapped out for the relays. Started the truck to check voltages and everything looked good. Had power where I needed it and it seemed like it was cycling. I noticed that only one post at a time had power at the grid heater and down at the ECM wire inputs. I assume that's normal as to not fry the relays? Anyways, couldn't really feel it getting warm so I just have to assume it was working correctly. I'm also wondering given that my batteries are on their last leg if that's contributing to lower heat then normal?! Either way I'll see how it acts up in the morning. If we have a smoke free start then problem solved, if not then it's time to start looking at other options.