notlimah

Sorry went back and edited my last reply. haha those AREN'T bad numbers lol! What's the peak boost for the vgt's?? I gotta admit, I know just about nothing of those turbos lol. You're addicted to speed now my friend!

So much for never going over 65 hunh?! How long were you at %100? Couldn't read time on that graph. Those aren't bad numbers though! Good stuff!

Well I got the wifes permission to order a set of tow mirrors from 1AAUTO with 4th gen glass! Power and heated combo! Looking forward to getting them on. I'll let you all know how it goes!

Well you can read back through this thread and myself and other members cover a lot of possibilities and options and I list what I've done to try and remedy the situation. These trucks to like to be turned over fairly quickly and low battery power can effect starting for sure, but I've never experienced anything that was truly a slower turnover which resulted in longer cranking. Mine was always longer cranking to what seemed like a lack of fuel in the lines, then it'd fire. And just so your aware, the 24v doesn't have glow plugs. What's causing that drop in voltage is the grid heater drawing current to heat intake air to help with combustion on colder mornings (I believe below 65-70*??) but it pulls a lot of current which is why the voltage gauge will drop so much, and also why it cycles upon first start up on colder days, turning the grid heater on and off. Anyways, I've been doing some experimenting the last few days and I'll report back here soon with my findings. I just like to average things over time and try and bunch of different variables to see if it changes anything then let you all know!

Yes sorry, radiator pipe, not inetercooler.

I'll snag a pic later today, but if you look at the second pic you posted in this thread, mine looks exactly the same as yours except it looks like my intercooler pipe is a lot farther back then yours. The PVC pipe is literally touching the engine and with me holding it back, I can have it about a 1/2in away from the intercooler pipe

So the front pipe on mine that goes down to the top of the vent is a lot closer to the intercooler pipe. I can't get it any further back no matter what I do to the PVC. Is it ok if it's really close or even occasionally touching?

So just wanted to do a quick update after getting the truck aligned. The he truck drives great! While I can't say it's a HUGE improvement since this is my 3rd steering related upgrade, it had made a big difference. On the way to get it aligned I had an audible *pop* in the steering as I was pulling out of a parking space. The first time I'd heard that. Since the alignment, no popping whatever and the slight knock noise I was able to get that @BIG-BLACK-DODGE and I were discussing earlier is now completely gone. I still have some slop in my steering box but for the most parts it's really hardly noticeable. I did try and tighten the bolt on top of the steering box and got maybe an 1/8 of a turn so we'll see if that has any effect. All in all this was an excellent mod! Oh almost forgot, I can actually then my wheels a little bit without much effort at all while sitting still! Kinda crazy! Haha

Doubt it matters, but if you take a pic I'll go examine the bushings on my 2wd for ya and see how they look in comparison.

Is that an extra hookup on the quad? Or does it pull the info from the computer on the VP?

It wouldn't be all that regular. I would only swap on a muffler if I were going to tow longer distances with the family. Personally if it were just me in the truck by myself all the time. It'd be a 5in straight back the whole time! If you watch the YouTube video diamond eye has about those quick connects it really looks like a 5 minute deal.

So looking through that massive pdf made my head hurt! lol I think my ideal setup is going to be a 4in diamond eye that I'll run straight through for around town day to day stuff and use diamondeye's quick connect clamps to swap out the muffler delete and put one in for long trips. Now I just need to find a decent muffler that's 30in!

Yes that's correct as far as I know @dripley. Although cumminsdog, who's basically spearheaded this whole thing to get us 4th gen mirrors, said it wouldn't be difficult to wire up the blinker or power fold functionality. I'd like to hold out for the power fold options but if they don't come out in the next couple weeks then I'm just going to pull the trigger on just the power/heated options.

I saw FASS setup to read fuel temps on a 4th gen I believe but it was showing how well their fuel heater worked. The way how I understand the VP44 overflow valve working is that it wont be cycling fuel through the pump to cool it unless its at 14psi or higher. Otherwise fuel is just flowing through the pump to supply the engine as needed. I do agree that on a low tank of fuel or longer trips that fuel will get warmer then shorter trips with high fuel tank levels, but even the fuel leaving the engine and going back to the tank and then directly back to the VP would cool off quite a bit I'd imagine.

Measuring now and then comparing that to what it is once the kits in would work. I eyeballed mine just to get it pretty straight and drivable but am getting it aligned by a shop this afternoon. Check out CSMs article on alignment. They may have snapped because of not getting a proper alignment. I'm not too sure how you could get them in there any way other then straight but that might just be common sense to you and I, and not so much for other people.

AFAIK 1aauto is the only one that's made 4th gen mirrors that are direct bolt on.

What were the reasons for the recalls? I don't recall? I've heard that most complaints from these kits were tre's snapping off, but most attributed that to not having the tre's lined up when initialing installing, but who knows. Can you hear that clunk while driving or turning in the cab? I'm not worried about the clunk when I'm underneath the truck trying to make the noise happen. I can't hear it in cab and don't hear it while turning, where before on my stock steering, it was a pretty loud clunk/thud.

Does that kit change the steering to the T style? To me the biggest reason for upgrading to this kit is the T style steering, plus beefier links. I'm taking mine this afternoon for an official alignment so I'll report back with how it steers after that. So far though with just my eyeball alignment it's driven real nice. I still want to get under there and tighten up the steering box nut to see if that makes things a little more tidy.

I definitely think 14psi is needed to cool the pump and I don't think it matters whether it's stock or highly modded truck. Although, there are some cases like yours and mine where the pump just seems to run for a lot longer then it seems it should but I think these cases are a lot more few and far between. My fuel pressure gauge is mechanical. It did this the last time I opened the fuel lines. Took a little bit of driving before all the air got out and the needle stayed rock solid from then on.

I should have my oil checked next go around. I was kinda betting on it being grommets or washers gone bad but we'll see after this recent update on the grommets. From all the reading I've done, it's the crossover tube o-rings that are the last things changed, and typically end up fixing it if you've already replaced the washer at the back of the head and the grommets at the T and no fix. I'll report back in the next few days to let you guys know if the grommets fixed it. I need to wait for the air to bleed out of my fuel pressure gauge lines. I'm seeing sporadic pressures right now, same as I did before when I installed the gauge. As far as my fuel pressures, when all the lines are bled and everything's running warm. I never see below 17psi and typically see 17-18psi at all times. Those pressures are low, but like you said, that's a long time for the pump to still be rollin on pressure like that. My 99 is at 170k and stock VP and for majority of it's life was running on stock lift pump and she's still running strong as ever!

Yea the length should be the same. If not the mount on the main tie rod seems like it's adjustable so that would solve that. I was looking through cjcoffoads website and they list the bilstein steering stabilizer for 94-12 trucks. They should be fine, as long as the end that mounts into the tie rod clamp fits.

I can bump the starter and get my fuel pressure up and then the truck will generally start up fine yes. The problem is, doing that isn't exactly the way I'd like to start the truck up every-time. I don't think it's the VP, all the symptoms I'm having point to leak in the return fuel lines or crossover tube o-ring, or worse case, leaking injector o-rings. Just to recap what I've been dealing with With the truck parked uphill... -At key on, fuel pressure bump to 2-3psi with typical lift pump *brrrp* -turn key to start and will crank for 5-8 seconds, first a small hicup/tried to start followed by a full start -idles smooth, no excessive smoke, will run fine the rest of the day as long as not parked on steep slope up hill generally takes about 4 hours parked in my driveway for it to start taking longer to fire up. Otherwise, insta-start With the truck parked downhill... -At key on, no fuel pressure bump and no lift pump *brrrp* -truck will start almost immedietly -idles smooth, no excessive smoke, will run/start fine the rest of the day except every start still wont have psi bump or lift pump sound.

No worries on the spacer for the steering stab. I'm going to have to get a whole new one if I'm going to run one so I'll probably get a 4th gen one so it should fit right up to the mount already on there. Before I upgraded I had the stock Y style steering on there, and the TREs were really worn out. I'm not sure mine turns easier, I'm running pretty big tires so maybe that's why, but it does steer nicer than before. Your pic looks normal to me. Mine is hard to see at that same angle since I already have the steering box brace, but the thread end of the TRE does stick out slight skewed and not right at a 90* straight edge from the pitman arm. I'm not sure on the trend of loose steering trucks. Mine is a long bed and when it was completely stock, it wondered pretty good. I definitely had to keep two hands on the wheels around corners and stuff to help with the correcting. Now with a DOR track bar, steering box brace and updated steering links, it's a whole lot better. Still not %100 but leaps and bounds better then stock. On the other hand, my 2wd short box is completely stock as far as steering goes and drives straight as an arrow.

Man rhubarb is out of season here! Love me some rhubarb pie!