notlimah

Yea I'm not doubting that it has the additive in it, just curious if I use it and I still do get some chatter, can I just put the additive in? Only reason I'm thinking that I s because I've read some people having those issues using this stuff.

Alright guys so I got some diff fluid today. I was just planning doing the rear for now as I don't use 4x4 often (especially during the summer) and I was in a bit of a rush and this is what I got Will I be ok just using the valvoline? If it does slip can I just add the lsd fluid?! I can always just return it and get 80w-90 with the additive already in there, but just looking for your guys thoughts on it.

Alright guys looks like this problem could be showing up again. From the time of my last update until this morning the truck has started right up every time. Didn't matter how it was parked or how long. This morning I come out to start and it did a slight hiccup and little longer crank then normal before starting. Could've just been coincidence but it was pretty similar to the way things were before. So if this problem is back I'm really at a loss. What could it be? A leak doesn't seem to make sense anymore since its ran fine for as long as it has. Could I be getting to much fuel on start up? Bad relay on lift pump side of things? Vp going bad? Injectors? What do you guys think?

Sometimes that's what it takes ya know. Just slowly chip away at all the potential issues and it only narrows the possibilities to what's actually wrong!

Whhhooooppppssseeeee! Was there any resistance on the float? Did you reinstall it away from the sides so it could actually move? Sorry if you've done these but not sure what else it could be.

Sounds to me like wiring might be fried. Maybe a bad sender at the fuel module?

Dude where's the pics?!?!

Mike you'll have to do a follow up on these once you get some miles on them. Some reviews I saw mentioned them going flat pretty easily, would be nice to hear your experiences on that. Those words apply to a lot of different scenarios!

Those words apply to a lot of different scenarios!

That's a badass pic!

Yea the GM trucks aren't too bad I gotta say. The wife drives a 14 GMC Sierra 1500 and it's been a good truck. Sounds like it was about time for a change for you though so glad you ended up with something new, reliable, and one that the dealership can worry about maintaining for a bit until you have too! Also, I may be interested in your smarty depending on how my financials are looking!

Ah ok, so then the opposite of what I said. Fuel module checks good if that's the case. Have you tried pointing the nose of the truck downhill and letting it sit over night and then starting? Also try hot wiring your lift pump to see if that'll start it. You could try pulling the lift pump fuse and seeing if the truck still starts. If that's a no go, try adding a relay to delay pumping until after the truck starts? Just spit balling here because I can't remember everything you've tried so far but it seems like there's either a leak in your return lines at the back of the head or at the fuel T, or your VPs not happy with the cranking pressure.

Ok just to clarify, when doing the bucket test you pulled the suction and return lines from the tank side and put them in the bucket right? And with it like that the truck started right up? If that's the case then your issue is in your fuel module. Are you running a drawstraw or sump? If not it seems as though you've found your problem since doing the bucket test eliminates the fuel module out of the equation.

Oh ok you just cut it further towards the axle? I like the way it turned out. I was just thinking of how the stock exhaust looks and then what @CSM was saying about the angle of exhaust tip making a difference in sound and drone.

Is that an mbrp exhaust? I've noticed that those exhaust systems seem to exit the bed at more of an angle where as the diamond eye is more perpendicular to the truck bed. Wondering if that makes things more tame inside the truck and keeps drone down.

Looks good. 5in pipe to 6in tip? And not to start a huge coolant debate but Zerex and Dexcool can mix in SMALL amounts and not cause issues right? IE, like you were doing, if some Dexcool was left in the system, it's not going to cause problems mixing in with the Zerex whatever small amount that would be right?

Just curious. I do as well and am about to flush/drain fluid and I've always heard that over filling a bit is good.

Was the LSD rear diff an option on these trucks?

Well sounds like if it wasn't as wet as before, and before it wasn't overfilled, then maybe your vent is clogged. That sounds like the only difference to me. This is interesting though as I'm about to change out my fluid soon. Do you have the LSD rear diff?

Got it. If it's not included in the lube already, how much do you add?

Nice I'll have to check Napa out, it seems that Walmart doesn't carry a synthetic in 85w-140. Do I need to add an lsd additive too?

Thanks Mike. I was thinking of backing in my driveway putting the truck downwards in hopes of getting more fluid in the rear. Do you just run Walmart stuff in your diff? I guess I'll stick with the FSM recommendations.

Looking to re-torque my trans oil pan bolts but I keep finding different numbers. Looks like the FSM calls for 125in.lbs but looking through some other threads on this people recommend going slightly above that? Just looking for what you guys would recommend. Also, looking to change the fluid in the rear diff. I have a dana 70 with the LSD metal tab on one of the bolts. FSM calls for 3.4l but I've heard overfilling is ok/better? That true? Also what type of fluid should I go with in the rear?

Yea I figured if I'm not going to use the ash tray might as well put it to good use!

Awesome! That's where I'm at!