notlimah

I guess one way to look at it was the stock fuel filter was good enough for the engine manufacturers so no reason that would be different now. Plenty of people run aftermarket filters through their fass/airdog and through the OEM can and see no difference in pressures. So I'd say the stock fuel filter is ok, but there are better filters available.

The choice between lift pumps really comes down to whether you want the integrated filtration or just running the OEM fuel filter. I think everyone would agree that mechanical pump will more then likely last longer and won't be plagued by the electrical bugs that can come up. With that being said, I still choose a FASS 150 over the fuelboss only because I didn't want to have to route more lines for the extra filtration since I didn't want to run with only the OEM fuel filter. Clearly, there's no right and wrong, just personal preference. As far as size/GPH, I'd suggest at least a FASS 95 or equivalent. I went 150 because I really didn't want to have another thought on if I'd have enough fuel pressure later on down the road, regardless of what mods I did, but again, that was just me. You look at guys like @TFaoro who, last I checked, was putting down over 500hp with 300hp sticks and a FASS 95, I think it's safe to say that pump should cover just about any tune and future upgrades.

I'll throw in another good word for ISSPRO gauges. I've ran a mechanical fuel pressure and boost with electronic pyro on both of my trucks. I did have an issue with one of the fuel pressure gauges but after a phone call to ISSPRO they sent me a new one free of charge. I think whichever gauge you pick, you're picking from the top 2 gauges.

As far as isspro gauges are concerned, there's a moveable/adjustable 'tab' on th back that will butt up against the inside of your pillar mount. It's a little hard to do if you have bigger hands but snug is usually good enough. It'll adjust down with two knurled screws but it's pretty self explanatory.

Only reason I'm looking to go with the 1in is to be as close to stock as possible and avoid needing bags. I don't mind either look (stock rake vs level) but I'd prefer more rake then level especially when towing. Do you have to remove the shock to put new coil spacers on? Or just jack up the body and get a spring compressor and swap the spacers and call it a day?

Thanks, I'll check those out. I'm tempted to just get them and put them on and try it out, and either it rubs or it doesn't. Other then an alignment, what all is required to swap out the spacer?

Alright guys, I know this sounds familiar, but I think I've finally found the root cause of my problem. That stupid ball seems to have been the problem the whole time! I replaced the ball and spring and it's been a week now and no issues. The truck has been parked on average 8-12 hours parked uphill in my driveway where before it would cause longer cranking, but this time, no problems at all. Immediate start up. I've also let it sit for at least 48 hours with no issues. So it seems that the ball in the return line can cause hard start issues that are identical to what we would typically see when the banjo bolt washers on the back of the head, fuel T grommets, and crossover tube O-rings. This would also explain why I originally thought my problem was fixed before because I rotated that ball around at the same I replaced the fuel tee grommets so I had thought the grommets were the issue at first, but once that ball either rotated or indented again, the same problems came back. Anyways, just wanted to pass the word along as I've done EXSTENSIVE research on this problem and have never read of anyone reporting back that this was the root cause of their issue. So hopefully this will help someone in the future because I've been chasing this issue for quite a while now!

Yea I hear ya Mike! I wouldn't of picked this setup myself, but it came with the truck and I don't feel like getting rid of perfectly good tires. Right now just trying to get things as close to stock as possible, until I'm actually due for tires and then I'll be back to stock.

@TFaoro Yea smaller tires in the future for sure. @AH64ID Where did you get your 1in spacers?

I think your best off going with a new alternator from Napa or somewhere similar, with lifetime warranty. Throw it in the truck, if it's within range, call it goo. If not, swap it out and get another one.

So I took a couple pics tonight that show where it currently will rub. Passenger side Drivers side Ill try and grab pics at full turn so show what it actually looks like.

Jesus H! No clue it was over a grand for that setup!

Hmm I didnt know this was already out for out trucks! Is there any real difference between smarty touch and any of the edge/quad screens or setups available?

FWIW I replaced my track bar with a DOR setup and mine still popped for a bit. Might just need some time to settle but mine has since stopped popping.

Pretty sure you can purchase individual fuel lines. Can't remember what site, but I'd check DAP, Vulcan or maybe thoroughbred. Hmm, I assumed all these pumps ran pretty much the same but it looks like the AirdogII system doesn't use what I was referring too.

I'll rub at full turn on the inner side of the tire on the wheel well. No hard parts rub.

I'm not sure what the offset is for these wheels since they came with the truck. Tires are 315/75R16 Do you think I could fit those under a 1in kit? I would do that ASAP if they'll fit!

@hex0rz here's a run down of the fuel tee fix Have you happened to check the ball on the return side of your Airdog?

All I know is that when people do the swap from auto to manual, they need to flash their ECM with a Smarty to a manual tune for their specific year so I can only imagine that it'd be the same for the swap the other way around.

I'm not a pro in this area, but first thing that comes to mind is ECM flash? I would imagine the '00 to '99 swap makes things more compatible across the board but seems like this may be just an ECM flash issue. Hopefully someone else chimes in with more knowledge in this area. Oh, and welcome to the forums!

@leathermaneod Like dripley said, no wheel well liners for me, but that's how the truck came so oh well. Only reason I'd want something back there would be to prevent debris hitting my FASS but so far it hasn't been an issue.

Might just be nothing. I'd just keep an eye on it and see if it keeps up or if it goes away. Same thing I've had to do with my problem. At a certain point I just said, I'll figure it out when I can since most other ways to fix this would mean tearing into the engine more then I was capable of doing right now. We'll see though, truck fired up right away this morning so maybe its cured, but maybe not haha

Weird stuff that's for sure. I know even on mine (auto) when I let all the way off the gas and coast my idle seems to stay slightly higher then when I get close to stopping it will drop back down to normal idle rpms.

Awesome man! Don't forget to post pics!

Ok, I changed out my return spring and ball from one supplied from FASS. Great customer service from them, just called and told them I was seeing irratic fuel pressure numbers as well as lowering numbers and they sent a new one free of charge. The springs themselves were practically identical. About 1-1/8th of an inch. It was the balls that looked completely different. As you may have heard, FASS sometimes has reported issues with the return ball creating grooves in itself from the return spring causing irratic fuel pressure readings. I'm also hoping/wondering that maybe this could have been the cause for my loss of prime. We'll see! In the bottom spring and ball set you can clearly see the indent the spring has caused. I'm hoping that with the new smooth ball it won't get caught in the spring and keep my pressures more solid and as a bonus, fix my fuel leak. But I may be stretching a bit on that last one. Anyways, as always, I'll keep you all posted.