notlimah

Yikes! Very well could be!

What's a brand new ECM go for these days?

@JAG1 & @Me78569 if you guys find your way back up, give me a shout!

Yup!

On the way in from shrimping this afternoon/evening

So drove 25-30 miles today with the new mirrors and I gotta say, I'm extremely impressed and happy with these things! The amount I can see behind me and down the side of the truck now is ridiculous! I have both convex mirrors pointed so I can see the rear tire on each side which is really nice, especially on the long bed. The passenger side mirror has almost like a zoom lens, which has been the hardest thing to adjust too. I have to keep the mirror pointed close along the line of the truck bed so I can orientate myself. Mirror shake is practically non-existent. Overall if you're so much as thinking about making this upgrade, I'd do it in a heartbeat!

Those things are a real SOB to get out! The passenger side door had like brand new ones! Drivers side came out a little easier! Lol

To be fair those are both crazy low mileage truck and single owner clean interior, it's practically a new truck. That being said they're still a 20 year old 'new truck' and those prices are crazy. They must sell for close to those prices otherwise they wouldn't have them up for that much!

Yea you'd think tow mirrors would be standard especially on a dually.

Well still haven't picked a spot for my backup light switch. But I did finally get around to putting my trailer brake in this truck. I wanted to put it somewhere easy enough to reach so uncoils activate the brake override if needed but somewhere it was still out of the way a bit. I finally settled on just using the ash tray as my mounting location. Definitely nothing original here but it worked out well for me. I'm running a tekonsha p3 and it fit perfectly. I did trim the plastic holder a bit though. I removed the entire ash tray cover and the 'metal' cover on top. Got a good idea of how I wanted my trailer brake holder mounted. Drilled holes and that was that. There are two plastic pieces that stick out that hold the tray cover in place and you can use these to mount your trailer brake on top giving it a slightly lower angle or below making it gave up more. You can as see (if you look hard enough) that I cut the tabs on the from outside portion of the plastic. This was so I could take the controller out without having to remove everything else just to take that out. Here's a better shot of what I was talking about. Final install I really like how it's tucked up in the panels without looking too weird that one of the panels is missing. I was even thinking of trying to take apart the front plastic section of the ash tray to try and put a bit of a cover back on it to make it look more natural but we'll see.

I'm not sure I follow. Have the thread side of the tie rid facing away?

Alright guys! Got these mirrors in the mail this afternoon and got them on tonight! They look great! Power works and heat should as well! If you want a really thorough write there's one on CF already but these are a really straight forward install. I spent more time fooling around with the plastic body pins then the mirror! Anyways, for some pics! Before After Size difference How one the bracket mounts And over all shot of the truck just cause! Haha I haven't driven with them yet but just getting them pointed where I wanted and things, it's crazy how much more visibility these give! They seem to be made very well. Has plenty of resistance to fold them and flip them up for full trailer mode. They shake about as much as you'd expect when closing the door but not too much. They're on there really solid. I'll report back with driving results.

Yea this is a tricky one because it has some common signs of known issues but it's a mix from multiple different things. This has electrical issue written all over it. Doesn't seem mechanical to me. Hopefully testing power to the VP will clear things up!

Not sure on the direction of its supposed to go but I'd figure if it mattered it would've told you. I've also heard that you get the best results by placing it as close to the downpipe as possible. Is this going on your 4in MBRP? Also, I'd use band clamps, wouldn't want it welded, especially if this doesn't turn out to be as quiet as you'd like.

It's a small start up company, but I was planning on asking them what they wanted just to avoid any blame being shifted to me!

Yea I had the same question as Dripley. Trying to figure out what your troubleshooting process was.

Great points on tire pressure fellas. Just so you all know, the rental agreement for me only requires that I keep tire pressure at 'the proper psi' so unless one of them tell me to keep tire pressure at this, then I'm going to be left up to doing it myself. I do pickup the trailer the night before I leave so I'll post back here with the kind of tires and all that jazz and see what you guys think.

So just wanted to dons quick follow up on here. Had this kit on a little over a week now with alignment and it's driving fine. Nice to feel like I have some more control over it. Question for you guys running this kit. Is anyone getting a slight pop or thud when turning while moving slow? Generally happens when I first pull out of a parking spot backing up or something like that. Doesn't sound bad, I think it's probably just the tie rods turning one way or another but I thought it had went away. Anyone else?

What valve are you referring to? I got the grommets from Geno's https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-3905351-fuel-return-line-grommet/new-products

Sounds good!

So I guess it's possible you have a sticky relay. Although I think the relay would fail altogether before constantly sticking and giving you the symptoms you're seeing. But could be worth a shot since it's a lot cheaper then an ECM. Maybe if someone could explain how exactly the ECM talks with the loft pump and how that works in conjunction with the WTS light it'd help us understand your issue better. Like on a cold start up what should you see as far as WTS light, fuel pump prime, how many amperes are being sent to the pump and both key and, cranking and then start? Anyone have that info? I found this thread on CF and it's slightly different then what you're experiencing but it's similar and there's some good discussion. Maybe @KATOOM can drop some knowledge on us!

So in regards to those pins, are there different strengths to them or are they all the same? I'd like to get a heavy duty one. Or would I be better off just getting a grade 8 bolt and but from the hardware store and calling it good?

Mike that's the exact setup I'm running now! Haha I have a big bolt with a nylock nut but it's just a pain to take on and off! Maybe I'll just stick with it though.

Hey guys, I know this is bit of a 'who cares' sort of question but was just curious what receiver locks you all were using? I mainly ask because I want to make sure I'm getting one that's not only a decent lock, but also strong enough to handle the loads these trucks can haul! Just from looking around, I saw on etrailers they have ones like these that seem to be a good option https://www.etrailer.com/Locks/Bulldog/BD580400.html what do you all think?

Can't watch the videos right now but if your wondering about it being a leak park nose up a decent hill and let it sit overnight and see if the problem is the same or worse. Then park in the exact same spot again except the other way around. If it fires right up when pointed down hill that indicates a leak in your return fuel lines somewhere. It'd be worth trying to at least determine if that's a problem or not. Did FASS even give you new wiring with relay for the that pump? Or does it just use the factory harness? Was there power at the factory harness? Have you talked to FASS about this issue?