notlimah

Yea I hear ya. All my snap-on tools are hand me downs or used cheap finds. I'm not trying to argue that a crescent was/is better then the socket in this regard, just think you could accomplish what you want with a crescent if you have one big enough so you didn't have to waste money on a socket you'll rarely use. I used a 20in crescent and I got that thing pretty tight! haha As far as sway bar bushings, I'd get it based on the kind of driving you do. If you see more pavement then dirt I'd say the stiffer the better. Obviously the opposite that for off road use. If it's 50/50 I'd just replace them with OEM type.

When you buy snap-on tools, you find reasons to use them! haha Did you end up finding the deep socket? I just ended up using a big crescent wrench for that and it's nice and tight. Your pitman arm looks right to me. Should be so that the thread sides are facing towards the ground.

That's for sure!

Alright guys, I need some opinions on two mirror options. I'll start by saying I'd really to get the 4th gen mirrors from 1aauto but as of now, i can't convince the wife to let me spend that much on mirrors! I'm going to start towing more often as crab and salmon season just opened up, I usually volunteer to tow my friends boats so I don't have to own the money pit! lol but I'd prefer to tow safely aka be able to see my trailer and other cars and things around me! Are there any cheaper alternatives? Or should I just start pulling in the early Christmas present excuses and get the mirrors?!

Ahh the perdiem life!

Yea injector lines are tight and completely dry. I'm 99% sure the issue is coming from somewhere in the return lines so that's why I'm replacing the grommets at the fuel T.

I'd say my steering play is a total of 2in as well, but 1in each way totaling 2.m, but that's just eyeballing it. I'll try and get a good before and after of stock and 4th gen upgrade.

Any measurements for the sleeve you used? I don't have a stash of them laying around to try and fit so if I could get a few that could be close along with new bolts that'd be great.

Thanks guy, I'll crack my needle valve open a hair more. Hoping to get new plumbing installed this weekend and hopefully (fingers crossed!!) get rid of this issue. I finally got around to re-installing the turbo in my 99 and after sitting for almost 2 months the truck fired up instantly! Gonna be hard to sell her!

Thanks for that BBHD! I'm wondering if it's just because I still have a leak somewhere. Just weird it only happens during certain times. What psi do you see on the 1sec bump?

I have a quick follow up observation I've made. I haven't had the chance to get the grommets replaced at the T yet, so I've been parking nose down just to avoid having these longer starts unnecessarily. Well when parked nose uphill, my lift pump always would do a quick 1sec prime when turning the key on and I'd typically see a 2-4psi bump on my gauge. Parked nose down, the lift pump doesn't seem to do the same 1sec bump. It even happened after restarting the truck after I drove to work and it being parked on level ground. No 1sec bump at key on, no fuel pressure gauge psi bump, but still fires up instantly, then fuel pressure builds shortly after the engine's running. Anyone else ever notice this?

Ill have to look more into this and report back!

Pictures worth a thousand words! haha Sorry bud! I guess it could've been something worse right?!

Oh man the door itself. Hunh! Can you tell where it's binding up? Does it budge at all?

If you get a stabilizer for a 4th gen truck it should be direct bolt on right? Fittings and all? I wasn't given a new nut at all with this kit unless it fell out somewhere already. I'm just going to pick up some nylock nuts from Ace and if they fit, then great, otherwise I'll take them back and get the right one.

I was able to get mine off by hand, but the plastic pieces holding the panel on we're pretty flimsy already. I'm still trying to find the exact ones to replace those!

In that link I posted earlier in regards to steering box issues I believe Cowboy posted a few really good links on how to rebuild and tighten up the steering box. As as far as my brace goes, I have to admit, mine is a bit of a pavement queen. Not by choice! I try and find every excuse to take the truck off yonder but I rarely have justifiable means! Good point about the difference between the frame to frame and DORs. Either way I think you'd have to get some pretty heavy frame flex to cause damage. Probably would mean the sway bar bushing and end links were toast and not helping the poor steering brace haha

How hard is it to adjust? If you over tightend would it be noticeable, like hot rear brakes or something?

How much resistance should the parking brake really give? I've heard a mixed bag from rock solid to just slight resistance.

Take pics so I can know how to do all this!!

I was looking through the part numbers for the 'new' bolts for the TRE's, but I was thinking, can't you just pick this up at the hardware store with the same specs? Looks to me like its a M14x1.50, so do you really need the Mopar brand ones from the dealer?!

AFAIK the rebuild WILL make the steering tighter but just a straight rebuild won't change the amount of turns lock to lock. From what I've heard from companies like redhead they suggest sticking with the 4.5 turns lock to lock for our trucks, but obviously go with whatever you prefer. I've heard the same thing about the steering brace, but I've had mine on for a while now with no leaking or other issues. I may however in the future swap over to the DOR brace just because I like their design, but that'd only be if I had money to blow haha! I know the bars not cheap but it's one of the only track bars specifically designed for the 2nd gen, so just something to consider. Don't these trucks always pull to the right? I thought that was the norm but maybe I've just accepted it as the norm haha

That's good to hear! I got my steering brace from Vulcan and I think it definitely helped out a good amount. I'm sure DOR makes a solid one as well. Are you still using the stock track bar? If so I'd upgrade that next before the steering brace, I'd go DOR here as well, it's what I'm running as well and I'm really happy with it. As far as steering box goes, I'd look at just rebuilding your OEM one if you can afford to have your truck down for a bit. Leathermans post goes into some good info on this. Tyler, didn't you mention before that yours still hit even with your level kit?

Awesome stuff! I take it the install went pretty easy?! No worries on the 'thread jack' we're talkin about the same thing so might as well have it in the same post! Also, let me know how the TRE holds up to the needle grease. I'll be getting mine thrown on the truck sometime this weekend.

Ahh ok, so are they available on every 4th HO trucks or is there a cutoff?