notlimah

Not quite impossible because I made the mistake of not putting the hose on prior to installing the tank and had to do it that way and it's not easy, but not impossible

Thanks for the help guys. I used a combo of multiple different wiring diagrams, including yours IBM, I also used this one from a write up on CF I'm going to post up how I did the whole thing in my 'new truck' thread.

Are you reffering to putting the lines on the top of the fuel module while the tank is on the truck? If so then yea, its a PITA! But I'd do everything I could to get those lines fully seated on the barbs, you don't want to chance a line coming off because it wasn't pushed all the way to the back of the fitting. As far as return line, I assume you're talking about the return line from your lift pump correct? If so, you have two options, 1. is to modify your fuel module again and add a return fitting/hose into the top of the module just like your supply line. Or 2. splice into the filler neck like you mentioned. Seems to me the filler neck would be easiest for you at this point so you can avoid fooling with the fuel module, unless you need to drop the tank to get those lines on further, then maybe it's something you'd want to consider.

From what I understand you don't necessarily need an expensive DVM, just one that is sensitive enough to read low enough for AC noise.

If you're loosing prime still. Park nose down overnight. If the truck fires up right away as if it didn't loose prime, the leak is 99% coming from the return side of the fuel system, so check all appropriate fittings for tightness, or maybe even dissemble and reapply sealant to double check. If the prime still persists when pointed nose down then the whole system is suspect. I would do the same thing as previously stated. More then likely somethings wiggled loose or thread sealant has worn away and needs to be reapplied. I'd much rather go through my entire system and recheck/lube everything to double check its integrity before dumping money into things I didn't really need too.

Thanks guys! Im not too worried about blinding someone while backing up lol. The lights are angled downward enough so that it should be in anyone's eyes, unless their car was super slammed. @IBMobile Thanks for the schematic!

Will 1/2in line work on a 3/8s JIC fitting? Im not sure what you mean by bulkhead?

Hey all, I'm looking to copy Mikes idea of sticking some lights on the rear axle to increase visibility when backing up. Wiring in those lights seems fairly straight forward. I was also looking to add the bypass switch so I can flip them on while in park. Couple questions... Anyone know what wire in the trailer harness is for reverse? What wire do I splice into on the neutral safety switch on the trans?

I hear ya, but not as fast as the 315s currently on the truck!

What's the PSG?

Wow that is impressive! I was between these tires and Toyo Open Country's, I think I've settled on these! Now the debate is 285s or 295s

Cool! Looking forward to what you guys will come up with tuning wise! I got your smarty back just in time @TFaoro!!

Nice work Nick! How different does it sound to the ear? That's the last thing I can think of that might tip of joe smo smog checker that maybe it doesn't sound like the throttle was blipped like it should've been according to pedal input ya know?

What'd you use to mount it? Is it just sheet metal?

Uh oh.... this isn't good news for me. I was planning on taking mine to Dynamic sometime in the future, but I've always wanted a manual, and I didn't know kits were available, and around-ish the same price as an upgraded 47! Now I have to decide if I'm capable of doing the swap and have the time! Hmmmm

Great, I finally figured out on my own by piecing all these things together and NOW you guys wanna compile and make this into an article! The nerve! Jk of course! Glad ad this is finally happening!

That an exhaust shield you got on there?

Welcome aboard Dave, glad to have ya! I'll be standing by for more info/pics when that 4bt swap happens!

Alright everyone, I finally got around to wrenching on the truck some more. Time has bee. A little scarse (imagine that with a 6mo ) but my parents were in town so my dad and I got out and out in the HX and also swapped out the stock battery cables for the ones from custombatterycables.com On to pics! So the batterey cables were straight forward. Just take out old, insert new. It's a little tough bending 2/0 cable to fit and go where you want but with a little muscle it'll listen. You will need to splice into the factory battery mounts on the passenger side negative. I had to cut this middle wire (yours may be different.) The plastic 'Y' is what you want to KEEP so don't cut below that. You'll only want to solder one end of wire to another end. Stock battery cable was 8, the new upgraded cable was 6 so plan your splicing accordingly. The wire after soldering And this is the finished product. All in all I'm really happy with the products fit and finish and the military style terminals. I only wish the PO didn't put such big battery's in, they don't really fit in the batterey trays right now. The HX swap was really easy and straight forward, I didn't take as many pics as I usually do because I was extra greasy. I can go snap some pics of any extra stuff if you guys want.

Thanks for that! Im planning on going by and talking to them sometime this week so I'll see what they say!

Yea your probably right Tyler, I'm just spoiled now!! Your smartys in the mail btw, sent you a text with tracking #

Oh yea! Just watched this th other day! The mazdarati, nascarlo and vette cart are my faves haha

I think it's possible the lift pump caused your problem but with no codes it's hard to say. The previous code you had would've had me doing the same thing as you in checking the VP first, but if it's still aligned then seems good to me. I'd double check all connectors to make sure they're all snug and no bare wires are causing a short anywhere. For the truck to randomly sputter and die and not throw a code seems weird. I mean I know a VP can die and not throw a code but since yours is new it's hard to call that the culprit. Worse case scenario is you warrantee the VP. Best case is after checking things over again you start her up and she runs fine, then get a new lift pump in ASAP!

Man that's a lot going on. Seems like one of those days where you start fixing one thing and say 'ah screw it, I'll fix alllll this other stuff too!' Haha I've had plenty of those too. Post back with an update on the thermostat readings. That sounds exactly like what mine does so I'd be interested to see if it's really just thermostat. I have a new one sitting on the bench, just haven't had time. Who's 12v is it? I looked and looked for one before buying my 02, they are rare!

Glad to hear you got everything figured out and good to hear the symptoms of what a bad return valve will create!