notlimah

Did you guys have any issues installing this kit and getting it centered again without having the pitman arm being all out of alignment? Was doing some reading on CF and someone was complaining that his pitman arm couldn't like up straight again once he had the new kit on. Sorta seemed like something got out of whack but just wanted to make sure before I pull the trigger on this.

I'd be cautious about cranking down those injection lines too tight. I can't remember off the top of my head but I believe the torque specs aren't that high. If they're leaking I'd imagine that it might be your crossover tube O-rings are shot. On the return valve side, have they both been new? Only thing I could think that would cause it too stick would be debris in the fuel or just bad fuel, but I doubt the truck would run if conditions were that bad so it is a bit weird. The return valve was installed with the two O-rings on both sides correct?

Ok Maybe what CT was talkin about is if I DID get a new one to get the one that fits with the appropriate year steering upgrade I got? I noticed the one he linked to rockauto is a 2010 and the one I linked from amazon was for 03-09, any difference?

Yea it's for my 02 So you have to use a 2010 or newer steering stabilizer on the upgrade kit? Or do I get one that fits 03-09?

Ok so more freon it is

No manifold gaugues so not sure on the pressures. The compressor sounds like it's cycling. You can hear it make a click/hum sound every so often so it sounds like it's working.

So my A/C isn't blowing that cold of air out. It'll get somewhat cool, but not cold like A/C should. I recently did the heater treated fix and it definitely made the heater air hotter. I took apart my blower motor and it wasn't a mess. I cleaned it up anyways. The resistor doesn't look that bad. Probably stock but no major cracks or anything. Is it just in need of a basic A/C recharge?

Hey guys looking to put new steering links on the truck. Ever since I put the DOR track bar on my stock steering linkage has really shown its wear. It'll pop while turning and you can easily turn them by hand. Looking to upgrade to the 09 kit, will this one work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046NUOLM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also would it be worth upgrading the steering stabilizer? Or will that even work?

Here's what I'm using right now.

The bucket test from how I understand it will only determine if your leak is in the fuel module in tank (if still applicable) or in the lines leading to the vp. I could be wrong here though. Pressurizing the system is probably a two person job. While air is being pumped through the system someone else should be checking for leaks.

Ok, so it would defuel just to get boost below its max amount correct? Then after that it should be normal fueling correct?

Here's some other options http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=12uvbyk

I'm excited to hear about your experience with this!

Ok if it didn't throw a code at 22psi should I worry about it throwing a code any other time? Worst case scenario is it throws a code and defuels right? If I have my scanner with me, could I just clear the code and be back to normal?

I'd call Eric at Vulcan and tell him your system setup and that you wanna replace all your fittings and he'll get you what you need. To pressurize your system, use an air hose, put a rag over the gas fill tube and put a SMALL amount of air into the tank.

So to dial back it back I would back the set screw out correct? I did a decent 3rd gear lock up pull on the way home today up a steady incline and boost SLOWLY built to a max of around 22psi. So I can't imagine it going much higher with or without a trailer. Since I put the hx on my 02, isn't my stock ecm set to that 18-20psi range?

I definitely plan on adding more fuel/air later on, but I need to get my trans built before I go to crazy. Mainly just curious here here if adding a boost fooler to a stock fueled truck would hurt or hinder the truck? I've read that boost fooling on a stock truck could help lower EGTs when towing. Even getting on it now it won't build past 20psi but the last thing I want is to be towing and it throw a boost cod and defuel mid tow on the highway. I also don't think it'd be the best idea to add a box of any kind to my stock trans and then go towing. Just want to avoid grenading anything on my truck.

Got it, thanks guys!

Sorry to revive this thread but just wanted to ask a question that falls in line with this... I just swapped an HX35 into my truck with a boost elbow on it. Should I put a boost fooler on it to avoid throwing a code?

Yea, not sure if I mentioned that or not but the switch I used illuminates red on the tip of the switch when powered on so it helps remind you. Which is why I'd like to put it in a fairly noticeable spot.

My fan will do the same thing! How hard is a fan clutch replacement? If you end up doing yours take lots of pics please!

Thanks for suggestions for switch placement! I'm still trying to decide on the best spot to put them but this doesn't make it easier!

Ok so just wanted to put this here so I can have everything I've done on the truck in one spot. I wanted to copied Mikes idea of putting lights up under the axle because I couldn't see anything when backing up Anyways, using a couple different diagrams from people on here and on CF I was able to piece together a setup. I mainly used this diagram, just because it was the easiest for me to read. I'm not very electronically inclined I used these 35w lights with rubber housings that I got for like $15 a piece at my local tractor supply store. I spliced the existing wire from the light into a two prong waterproof plug You can see where I soldered and put shrink wrap where the wires change color. Then I shoved the the wiring into the rubber housing so that my solder was no longer exposed and put some rtv on the hole to keep water out. I then wired together the two lights and ran the rest of the wiring down the truck and up through the firewall into the cab. I ran a second single wire from the trailer hitch wiring up to the cab as well. It was the purple with black striped wire. Once in the cab I connected two seperate inline fuses. One for the switch, one for the relay. I tapped into keyed on power where the red arrow shows. You can see my in line fuses to the left a bit. I really need to go back and clean up the wiring under my kick panel! Currently how I have the relay positioned. For now the switch is just hanging out under the steering wheel. I'll more then likely put it to the left of the steering wheel at the very top of the kick panel. I want to be able flip the switch without having to be all the way in the truck so that's why I'm thinking there. And how things ended up looking in back. Overall I'm really happy with it! Got a little more in depth then I planned and had to make more trips to ACE then I would've liked but all in all a nice mod. The lights definitely aren't blinding but they illuminate plenty enough so you can see backing up or hitching a trailer. Thanks for inspiration on this mod Mike!

Awesome! Good to hear!

Yea my main focus was trying to keep things as tucked away from the water as possible. I put my relay up under the kick panel and made sure all my soldered points were stuck into the rubber housing of the light and then rtv'd the hole. Then used water proof quick disconnects so I can replace lights as needed without sacrificing the water tight integrity.