notlimah

Ok so anyone still having questions about this, check out HCb's post on CF. He answers a lot of questions and has plenty of pics. Should be a pretty quick swap! I'll post the link just in case. It's post #778 http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/372455-09-10-steering-best-322-ever-spent-20.html#post6207660

What wheels do you have? Looks like you have quite a bit of room compared to stock OEM wheels. From what I've heard, most people just buy new nylon lock nuts for the steering links themselves.

@leathermaneod What's the rock solid ram steering fix?! I completely understand not wanting to throw more money at the truck but FWIW, I talked to my local 4x4 shop and they said prices on these kits has gone up about 75ish dollars for them. Not sure if that's going to end up being a nationwide thing or if it's just regional but that's another reason why I bought this now since I could still get it shipped to my door for 300, and he quoted me 445 to his shop. @dripley those pics look a lot more snug then I would've thought! I also don't know why I didn't think to just crawl under my 99 and see how it looked haha

Oh ok. That actually doesn't look bad at all! Looks like guys with stock wheels are good with a little trimming yea?

I didn't see his post. What number post was it? Easier to find that way

@dripley That's good to hear. I feel like these should go in easy-peasey then! @leathermaneod That sounds like a little too much grinding to get these to fit IMO!

A friend of mine at work is looking into getting a 4th gen. In talking we were trying to figure what trucks came with the 68rfe & Aisin trans? Is it a simple upgradable option? Aftermarket swap? Only available in certain trims? Also, is there any benefit with one or the other? Sorry if these questions have been asked already but I'm a 4th gen n0ob!

@dripley If you look at my pic I posted earlier in this thread, does it look like my wheels have more room then yours? Is it mainly the TRE threads that don't have room or the actual tie rod ends that barely fit?

Looking forward to your findings! I remember reading about the snapping of TREs as well, but from what I understood it was happening because people were installing them and not lining up all the tie rods and tie rod ends so when it got turned full lock one way or another, it would be at a sharp angle with lots of pressure (exactly how it's not supposed to be) and snap off. That's what I gathered from it, but that link I posted earlier in this thread is a beast so I haven't made it all the way through!

If I remember correctly the highest you'd want to see when checking A/C noise is .05xx Anything above that and you'll more then likely start seeing issues related to A/C noise. .1 is the MAX allowable limit before the alternator is considered shot, but to avoid any issues and play it safe, we want out alternators to run between .01-.03 as to avoid any problems. Someone please chime in if these are off!

I've never had issues uploading pics from my iphone. I just allow the site to access my photo library and upload it straight from there. No issues. I'm also looking forward to this rebuild since I have everything replaced on my steering that should tighten things up, except for the steering box so take lots of pics!!

I'm in for this discussion as well! This is the same thing I've thought about many times, for when the time comes for me to upgrade. I'd prefer a good tower over a horsepower monster, but could still DD. The variable I didn't really consider was rear diff ratios. Is there anything we can use between 3.55 and 4.10?

Ohhh Archer! Haha

Yea that's a good point Dripley but I have to factor in time to my 'work on the truck days.' When I attempt to fix this fuel leak I'll also have to get the new steering put on in the same day. With the youngster around, I don't get as much time to wrench. For or sure a new input connectors are the VP will go in just because mine is blocking the power steering cap right now so I have the 45* bend from Vulcan coming that will solve that issue. But I don't think that's causing this issue since that only showed up once I started fooling with it and caused it to seep and drop my psi 1-2. The T fittings are the only logical thing that's causing my issue so I'll replace those and hope it fixes it.

Agreed. That's why I'm still going to replace a couple things up in the engine bay. Just not going to tackle the crossover tube O-rings until injectors. That is to say that after all the things I do, I still have the same issue.

The other issue is I have another truck to compare it too! haha My 99 will start almost instantly, where as I'm having these issues with my 02. You'd think they'd be more similar but apparently not. I still think that my system isn't getting a 100% sealed because I've read of plenty of people having the same issues as me and replacing the grommets at the T and such and it's fixed their issues so we'll see how things go once it's all replaced.

So just talked with Eric and he seems to think there's nothing really wrong. He said that even when parked on a hill with a completely sealed fuel system that gravity could still pull some fuel back. Either way he said that 5-8sec before starting isn't a huge concern and that I shouldn't worry about it. So just for my piece of mind I think I'll replace the T fitting grommets, replace the return banjo on the VP and replace the fittings for supply side of the VP. Eventually I'll replace the crossover tube O-rings, but that's just something I don't want to mess with right now. I'd like to wait until I can get some new injectors before replacing those.

Thanks man! It's frustrating for sure, but it's definitely not the worst thing that could be happening. At least the truck still starts and runs, I just have to watch out for those pesky hills! I did think of you though trying to get these g dang JIC fittings at the VP snugged up! I swear if I put them any tighter they're going to snap off, and before I loosened them, they worked fine! -_- ughhh! haha

Dude that's an amazing thread! Now you got me wanting to get some blankets!

I was attempting to read through the CF thread I posted earlier and it seems like people have been able to run this setup on OEM wheels, but they had to grind down the thread side of the TRE in order to get them to fit at full lock. Most said they ground it down an 1/8th of an inch or so, so obviously that's not much, but I have no first hand experience in this. I'm just hoping this will fit on my truck without having to do too much modifying.

Alright guys so I pulled the fuse for the FASS and cranked the truck over. Pretty much the same results. Truck cranked for 5-8ish seconds and then started. I didn't want to let the truck keep running without the FASS on so I shut it off and plugged back in the fuse and the truck fired over pretty quick after a small stumble. so... This basically means I'm still chasing a fuel leak or an air bubble in my system correct? I'm thinking of calling up Eric and ordering a new 45* inlet pushlock, new JIC adapter to the VP and a new needle valve. I've been getting some moisture buildup under the intake side of the VP that I can't get rid of by tightening down and I believe there was some moisture on my needle valve leading up to my FP gauge so I'm going to replace all that along with the grommets on the fuel T and see if that fixes the issue.

Lookin good man!

I'm still thinking air leak too. If I pull the fuse, what should I expect? I know if it were over pressured it should fire right away. But if it is a leak it should have the trouble starting right? Except maybe a little longer since it won't have the lift pumps help?

Yea I know my idle pressure is down a little bit. It used to idle at around 17-17.5 but I was messing with the connectors at the VP and now I can't get them 100% tightened down and have a tiny leak, so I can only imagine that's causing my lower fuel pressure. One thing I didn't consider was if the fass was over pressuring the VP, wouldn't it happen every start? This only happens after sitting over night up hill. Tomorrow morning I'll pull the fuse and see how it starts though.

Here's a quick video. This was after I had already gone to 'key on' and was waiting for the WTS light to go out. Outside temp was in the 60's