01cummins4ever

I’ve done this method several times with different vehicles over the years, always had gone smooth. I usually order from discount tire direct, they got free shipping on Coopers too. UPS just sets them by the garage and I just take them to a local shop and have them mounted

Double the dose or even quadruple I don’t know. why take the chance

Most run of the mill filling stations around here use around 25% #1 which is good to about -15f. That’s why when I know it’s going to get colder than that I resort to using the white bottle. Where I work they order in 50/50 blend for our heavy equipment but it’s dyed off road diesel and even if I could run it legally I would not run it in my dodge or semi just because Ive seen what comes out of the bottom of those bulk tanks Personally I would never run straight # 1, Being it is a very dry fuel with little lubrication It’s just like filling your tank with kerosine because that’s what it is . It would be pretty harsh on a vp44 and the injectors.

My 4 gauge set up, isspro EV 1 from Vulcan and pillar and colum Mount from Genos, the only thing I would change is the electric fuel psi. and go with a mechanical, I know running fuel In cab is not desirable, but the accuracy of the electric is sometimes questionable,

just keep in mind that if your running the stock 47re auto, anything over a 50-60 hp gain might be pushing the limits without a tranny upgrade,

The fuel filter is the first place the system is going to gel up, due to waxing in the filter, and shutting down fuel flow in the system. Keep your tank full and use a good anti-gel like power service (white bottle) that stuff has saved my bacon more than once.

I have installed the fuel boss, and very happy with it, I went with the no back up pump for simplicity sake, with all the reviews I read before installing I just did not see the reason for all the extra plumbing and I like being completely wireless. As far as sucking all the way from the tank , I do not think that is effecting the fuel pump performance being that the pump was designed to push and the suction part just is part of the process. The pump bring mounted lower than the tank it is basically gravity fed no matter ifyou use a sump or draw straw. so as long as their is fuel in the tank you will always have fuel at the pump.

I never knew the K&N made it to the big engine world, expensive lesson to learn

Nice.. you took the easy way.. I wouldn’t be to quick on scraping them, as long as your not Carrying much more than your own weight the ceramics should do fine, just when you start towing heavy and big hills they fade away.

As far as the brake components go That stuff will not benifet you on your rig, slotted rotors and ceramic pads are made for go fast light vehicles on a race track and not for slow heavy trucks like these, The axles I really don’t know, but for that price I would think you could give your existing axles a pretty could tune up.

Welcome from the other side of the state

I agree with you @notlimah on using quality parts and keeping the connections up to par. If my alternator was to go out tomorrow the first thing I would want do is find a reputable rebuilder to rebuild it as good or better than factory but unfortionatly those people are hard to find these days. Probably due to the availability and price of the chain store junk. but I still think disconnecting the grids is not fixing the problem just basically masking over it, for quality parts should be able to overcome the burden that the grids place on the system at start up.

Maybe I am one in a thousand, but I am still running on original alternator at over 300k, and never have disconnected my grids, even in the summer they come on in the mornings and work pretty hard in the winter, I have just left them alone and let them do their thing. I know they are working because they pull the volt gauge down to about 9v when on. But altenator still kicks back to14v. and AC noise is still within tolerances, only thing I’ve done is replace battery cables, clean block grounds and other basic maintenance, I will probably do more now from reading @W-T post, but other than that it ain’t broke so I’m not going to fix it by disconnecting the grids, they been working for the last 16 years, other than being on my 4th set of batteries, but at the first sign of weekness I usually replace them and if they got a little life left I will run them in something else like the tractor or plow truck until they completely go out. I know I can’t be easy on the alternator by dragging the 5ver around with all the extra lights and charging the RV batteries periodically. So I don’t know why or how just sayin maybe thier is other internal issues rather than blaming the grids, even though they do draw a lot of power it’s not for a prolonged amount of time.

Nice shop .. On a side note, I never knew how affordable those 2 post lifts are, till the other day when a neighbor was showing me his that he had installed, said it set him back around 4000 including delivery and installation. Probably could do it yourself for even cheaper ,Well worth the price in my opinion. Crawling around on a creeper just not much fun anymore.

How are the cab lights , Let me know how much you want, and I will pay for shipping. You don’t have to deliver...,lol

First off I would like to say great job, going to be a very unique truck when your done. As as far as finding a manual should be pretty easy, and available in a reman, only thing you would probably have to pay core charge if you don’t have one. Been looking got one myself, I like the nv4500 myself but others may tune in with different options, and $1000 core seems to be about the norm. Added to the cost of the reman.

I’ve used the Luke’s link that dieselfuture Posted, I used them on all the joints, installed 6 years ago and have held up well, but track bar joint is due for maintenance, They do come with shims to take up slack, I havnt tried it yet but will do here in the near future, if worse case I can just install a new link. Stil beats paying the big bucks for a new track bar. With that said, I do believe they only work with the factory size bar. and since were talking age here. I’m still 25 in my mind, but periodically my 51 year old body has to remind me how old I really am.

So who is the insurance company’s going to go after when an accident haopens ... it’s not the drivers....err.... I mean the occupants fault is it ?

A little over 200 bucks is what I had invested in building my own cables, I sourced all my parts from the local Napa and didn’t cheap out on quality parts. As far as the mating the cable to the lugs, soldering is my only method, I use pure lead solder and brush on flux. On larger lugs I normally stick them in a vise and flux and fill them about 3/4 full of solder then stick the already tinned cable end into the soldered terminal and push the cable all the way in until the insulation butts right up to the lug. When cooled I like to dab a little liquid tape on the end before I heat shrink, @WiscoRedkneck make sure you keep those new terminals and post lightly coated with oil, that will keep them corrosion free and looking new.

I may have to give that synthetic rope a try, I think the cable I have is 3/8 and it has took a beating and has a few fray's.I do need to change it before someone gets hurt though, I generally use a chain attached to a ****** block, then run my winch cable through the block and back to the truck, and even added a 2nd and 3rd ****** block before just to get a more direct pull off the winch, If I don't have enough cable I can always add more chain if needed. anyway always fun to play around with it, thanks for the infro.

If looking for a utility tractor with a hoe and expecting it to even come close to the 580, you would have to move up to the 45 plus horse power range, and even a decent used one is going to start at over 20k and 30k for a good condition used one is about the norm. the larger tractor back hoes usually have a sub frame mount for the hoe which is detectable but a little more involved than just a three point I have a kubota 24 horse with a three point hoe, but pretty limited on what it can do, it is quickly changeable to other implements though. anything over 4' deep or any other big jobs I got to go rent or borrow. As far as parts for a case, I have a neighbor that picked up an early 80's 580 2wd. from a town auction, it had a miss in the engine and hard starting, it ended up being a bad injector and he replaced all them for a few hundred bucks and now runs as smooth as can be. drive train parts might be a different story and even if they were available probably cost an arm and leg, We had a cat 416, another 80's model backhoe in our shop at work that had trans. problems, tried to get a replacement trans and cat wanted 12k for new, if they could even find one, or a reman for about 6k. the mechanics and machinist got together and done some fabricating on the gear train and put it back in service.

strange winter around here, way above normal temps for this time of year, might get into the single digits over night then climb back into the 40's during the day, not complaining one bit though, If the weather pattern dont change soon I may run out of water this summer. pic from last winter, and same spot today

I haven't run into any issues on my fairlead yet, its about six years old, and I have had some tremendous strain on them from the wire cable, I have considered changing over to synthetic rope too, for ease of use and to shed a few pounds up front too. just wondering about the structurability of the rope compared to the cable, I do pull some large pine trees that are on the cliff side of road up to where I can buck them up for fire wood, I just dont know how well the synthetic rope would hold up

now I know where those bundles of fire wood at the convenience stores come from. IB mobile is running a sweat factory at his place you know what they say about firewood being a never ending heat source, from cutting it, to splitting and stacking and carrying it into the house, you never have time to get cold.

Glad you had good trip and all went well Seems different taking a trip up north in the winter, usually my winter time trips take me to southern Arizona, T shirt weather I bet the trip home through ouray and silverton was a little unusual this time of year with the lack of snow. It don’t take much to close that road due to avalanches.