98whitelightnin

I think I got it fixed with new teflon tape and a new farrel on the fuel line at the valve. Its parked nose up so I will see if its good tomorrow.

When I park on level ground or nose uphill its been turning over about 2 seconds or so no matter how long it sets. If I park nose downhill it starts imediatly like it always has. What is the best way to find my culprit? I dont see any wet spots anywhere but my fuel line is about 5 years old and looksdry rotted in some places but its not wet either. The teflon tape on the bottom threads of my needle valve was a little discolored so I replaced it with new and it fired up imediatly but its nose down hill too. - - - Updated - - - It also runs just as smooth as always, no miss at idle or anything.

Hit my best numbers ever today, 18.2 mpg and mosly all in town trips. Will be putting about 175 miles on it mostly hwy this weekend so I hope to see it climb even more. Did I mention I LOVE this NV4500!!

If the truck runs good I wouldnt worry about them, these arent finicky like the common rail injectors. If you want a little more power and mpg get a set of rv275 or so, if you want a big power improvement get some 7x.009 or 7x.010 or roughly 100-150hp injectors. My mileage went up with my 7x.010 over stockers but the new has wore off and I dont hotrod.

It could be me messing with the big wiring harness under the ecm. I had to push it down to get old ecm off and the new one on. It doesnt really make since though.

My truck never threw a code or anythin when I had mine out. I know its not a fix but I put a lock-up switch in mine and as long as you dont forget to un-lock before you slow down below mph or so you will be fine. http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf

Na, put on the one from the donor 2000 truck.

Now cruising slow it will cool down to 183 or so, wonder if I should change out the t-stat? I have a couple more in the toolbox.

A few years ago I read about a guy with a 12v running 90% or even 100% waste oil. Said it started rough and idled rough but once you got it going it was good to go.

Wow!! I guess thats the problem.

I agree, I put on a big line kit and for the money its easy enough. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

Maybe its a single cab thing?

Checked a buddies 2001 ext cab longbed truck earlier and the frame was boxed just past the point mine is cracked. Dont know if all ext cab trucks are boxed or dodge did this with the newer year models?

There is another big pull in Wauchula next saturday. You should come, we are supposed to have a convoy of 6 or so trucks.

I dont know what the dealer charges for everything but im sure its high. I would just pic whatever you want and use it, all the top 15w40 oils are good but remember factory fill for cummins is valvoline premium blue. I have been using it and baldwin bt7349 oil filter for a while and dont plan on switching anytime soon. I do suggest you get a baldwin pf7977 fuel filter because they filter to 5 microns instead of the 7 all the other filters go down to and cummins recomends 3 microns.

A good turbo free spins when you turn the truck off anyway:cookoo:

Mines shift great when cold but when it gets hot in stop and go traffic is when it gets a little finicky. Im figuring it out more every day though. I used the clutch/pressure plate that were on the donor trcuk as they looked good. It crossed my mind that I may have put it in backwards too so I pulled it again and it was right. Its just like anything else, gotta get used to driving it. I put some Blumenthal coolers and hooked my temp gauge up today, will give an update in a few days about the temps I see.

That is the same way my ultra-gauge works so I just quit doing any of the mpg stuff. It seems like you have to run several tanks through it to get the readings close.

Im not sure about the clutch, call SB and they can tell you im sure. A few have done it but I cant think of any off the top of my head that put them into 2nd gens. Phillip over on CF changed his 1st gen from auto to G56 and 4x4 I believe.

If you can get a deal on a stick I would, cant believe I drove it this long as an auto. Try to find a G56 for it.

Update, I just put another ecm in the truck and now the temps run perfect like they used to. Hard run will kick it up to maybe 192 but usually rock solid on 190. It falls back to 186-188 when I slow down to stop or set at a stop light.

A little update, My mileage has gone up about a 1mpg or actually almost 2mpg's and I have been driving the same as before. I was having problems with taking off from a stop because the engine still thought it was had an automatic hooked to it so there was no governor to assist with take off. I pulled the ecm from the 2000 truck the trans came out of and now all is good. I also love this cupholder, should have picked one up years ago even with the drop down cupholder from the dash.

Your selling it after you put an lp on it?

Can you hear the engine idle change or just the needle bounce? It seems normal for the most part, my truck never did it when it was an auto and now does it on occasion.

Yellow is the trans since the atf that the t-case should have is red.