98whitelightnin

Yesterday I hooked up my old ecm and it cranked and idled smooth like it used to. Today I got another ecm from a 98.5 5 speed truck, it cranks long and the idle is jumpy, what could this be?

Been through this with a buddies truck. Your problem is with the 0237 cade, its a map sensor code. Unhook the xzt and see if it changes, if not, replace the map sensor and it will run good again.http://www.genosgarage.com/searchprods.asp

Convoy to Rick's anyone?

I pm'ed cumminsdog over at CF and here is what he saidLMC is the best. dont bother with another one.First disco the batts. Remove the door sill trim and pop off the kick pannels. remove the dash bezel and remove all the screws you see. remove the glove box by opening it and pushing in on the sides till it comes out. remove pass air bag. there are screws in the front and the bottom i believe. unplug it and pull it out.remove your center consoleunbolt the lower dash support on the floor under the consoleremove the knee bolster under the steeing wheel. 3 screws in the bottom and it pops offunbolt the two bolts holding the steeing wheel up to the dash. let the wheel rest aginst the seatremove the screws at the base of the windsheildloosen the nuts that were under the kick panelsthe dash should now be ready to tilt forwardonce its tillted forward look through the windshild and youll see screws in the back side of the dash These screws are with the head towards the windshield and are a pain in the to get out. you have to look through the windshield to see what your doing or have eyes on the end of your fingers. i believe there are two at each defrost vent and one on each corner. putting it back togther is the reverse obviously. some things of notethe side defroster (for the side windows) is connected to the dash and slides off the duct work. it comes out with the dash and have to be put back on before the dash goes in. on my buddies 98 12v the vin tag was rivited to his dash. we just used small screws and reattached it. there is a place for it. On my 02 it the vin tag was attached to the fire wall and we had to do nothing. im not sure when the change was made so be sure to check yours BEFORE you throw it away or get the dash back in and cant re attach the vin tag with out going back and doing it all over again.The LMC dash comes with new screws that go in the underside of the dash holding the defroster vents up. i suggest using them over the factory ones because they are slightly smaller and you dont want to crack your new dash using the larger factory screws. wait atleast 10 min (preferably 30) before messing with the air bag so the capaciters have time to drainjust take your time and its a pretty simple job just takes a while! if your old dash is bad enough its pretty simple to just break it into peices and pull it out. that way you can see whats going on lol

Just got off of the phone with Eric and Vulcan and we think he got me set up. He is sending me a 1/2 ball valve and some pushlock fittings so I can get this thing done. If it works, it will make changing the fuel filter so much easier and no more leaking fuel lines at the head after a filter change. - - - Updated - - - Well I had a hunch and I was right. I put the old ecm back on and it fired right up and idled smooth as silk like it used to. I found a local guy on CL that has a 98.5 5 speed to part out and im gonna see if he will swap me ecm's and some $$.

As long as it is ashless it should work fine. I pour 1oz per gallon of the walmart super-tech religiously with no problems. Been doing it for several years and dont plan on stopping anytime soon.

cumminsdog, aka (Wade) has done several trucks, might try contacting him either here or CF.

A stock trans and built trans drive completely different, stock truck will take of when the convertor locks and one with a built trans pulls hard through all gears without the launch at lock-up.

Thanks, It tokk a few reads before I relized the problem. I always welcome folks to the CF and guess was still in the rhythm.

I would like to do a DD but the price of a single is alot nicer.

Welcome to the the Fam:thumbup2:. How do you like the Valair single?

I have heard of folks running the airsoft beebees.

The OP's is a 2002 but mine looks like yours.

Thats why we awlays recommend ditching the isolator and running a needle valve, there are no parts inside to go bad. Napa carries the needle valve you want and the part # is WH6820, should be less than $10.

I like the steering column mount, im 6'3" and have no problems seeing over it really isnt in the way of the gauge anyway. The needle valve is nice because unlike the isolator, there are no parts to fail. Its less than $10 and yes you can close it if you do get a leak.

Its cheaper to put your own kit together if you want to run a needle valve instead of the isolator.You can get the big line kit with gauge port so you dont have to run the restrictive banjo bolts for half of what the isolator costs. Here are the parts I used 0-30 psi gauge only, no accessories http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISSPRO-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Only-p/evfpg.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Boost-tubing-kit-p/utk.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Steering-Column-Pod-94-07-Dodge-p/scp.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm and a 1/8 needle valve, napa part number WH6820 or http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Brass-Needle-Valve-p/bnv.htm

What do you mean flooded out? High egt's? I can run mine up with 7x.010 (150 ish) injectors and except for the clutch slipping it just goes like crazy. Smoke should be cleaning up by time your in 5th on up in the rpm's.

If you wanna do a cheap swap then go with just an hx, its a direct bolt on but an he351cw would be nice and have gotten folks close to 500hp. I have looked into swapping to a 351 myself and there are only a few changes you have to make to fit it up. I believe you will need a flang to fit it to the manifold, a down pipe, clock the housing and a pipe to go to the intercooler.

Mike is correct but remember the early 24v auto's had hx35 too, maybe up to 2000. The 03 and early 04 trucks had an he341 that is about the same as your hy35 and the 04.5 till 07.5 had he351ce which is a popular upgrade for our 2nd gen trucks. Or the he351ve turbos from the 6.7 trucks with the built in exhaust brakes are nice but pricey with the controller.

Mainly just trying to make things easier when changing filters and all. I need to change the 3/8 hose from my fass to the pump and really dread it because of bleeding it and then leaking fule from the lines for a couple days. Im really anal about this truck and cant stand it when everything is not perfect. When you change the filter on a 12v you dont have to bleed the lines, and a common rail bleeds itself.

Need to get a scanner and pull codes for apps and pump issues.

Thats what I want, maybe a few inches before the vp, some kind of valve that I can close to keep pressure in the pump and injectors. Some way to bleed the filter and all just before the valve. Change filter, bump starter and while the LP is running some kind of valve to bleed the air out and then open the needle valve just before the pump and boom, fires right up with no loosening injectors and having them leak for a few days. What do yall think?

Would it be possible to put a needle valve in the line just before the injector pump with some king of bleed valve so when I changed fuel filters or fuel line from the fass that I woulndt have to bleed the system but instead just close that valve off and then bleed the air out before it ever reached the vp?

Well it fired right up after setting all day and night nose uphill but it doesnt idle as smooth as it should. Went to the a resteraunt and came back out to a hot motor parked nose up and it took longer than usual to fire. Went to the pull and parked on level ground and with a cold motor 6 hrs later it fired right up. Could it be something to do with heat and this new ecm? I may put the old ecm back on for a few hrs and see if it changes.Mike, what do you use instead of teflon tape?