98whitelightnin

I ran a set of used tires a few years ago when money was tight. They were buck shot mudders for $150 installed and worked good for a while. If money is tigh, get some used tires to get you through the winter, then get new and an alignment done next year.

Ya, usually when the tach bounces the crank shaft sensor is at fault.

Did you buy these new from II or secondhand? I had a set of 75hp nozzles in my truck for about a week and took them out for bigger, they ran and idled great in my truck. Fast forword 4 years and put them in my buddies truck, they lope at idle but do run good. I dont know why they would run different on different trucks but sometimes they do.

Welcome to the fam Bob:thumbup2:

Got 17.9 on my last fill-up with mixed city and hwy. Its about $4.00 a gallon around here.

Im with Hag, clutch is alot better than the trans.

Welcome to the fam Dana:thumbup2:

Blumenthal out of Oklahoma city sells it for $12.95 qt.

Not sure on my pump, most remans I have seen are painted black but mine has not been painted. Got the truck about 5 years and 37k miles ago. I got the 0216 one time about a yr ago, cleared it and it hasnt come back. been a great truck!

Nope, these injectors idle better than any other set I have ever run in the truck. Never a lope and quick as I touch the key its rattling away. I torque mine to 32ft pounds with snap-on digital tq wrench.

I have changed mine 3 or 4 times this yr trying to fight an issue I had, 10-15 minutes is about what it takes with the t-stat too.

I have taken a few sets apart and cleaned with no change in the way they previously ran.

As long as you keep dont mix and match parts they should be the same as before you took them apart.

Thanks Hagg, this is the way I was thinking. Drill, weld and patch but getting it done is a different story. I gonna look at a couple buddies 2nd gen trucks and see if they have any.

There are several site sponsors that can hook you up with everything you need as far as gauges. I have been running the isspro ev gauges and like them alot.

walsey is correct, if its on the block then it hasnt been retrofitted to the tank. Look at fass, pureflow or a mechanical pump like this http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/dttasmefupu.html

While your at it I would flush the entire engine, radiator and heater core out and put in new anti-freeze and water with a new t-stat and new water pump. Take a 3/8 drive ratchet in the loosen postition and put it in your tensioner pulley and remove your belt from the water pump. You might need to put a cheater pipe on the ratches because it should be tight. After you remove the belt, its just two 10mm bolts that hold the water pump on.

I cant help you but there are a couple places that offer rebuilds for a good price, not sure how well they are rebuilt though. http://www.blumenthalmfg.com/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-RAM-Truck-2500-3500-NV4500-5spd-Manual-Transmission-/360489569897?_trksid=p4340.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2256551778595163264%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D360484257269%26

Welcome Kevin, I love those movies too.

Yes it is, its only been hooked 4 times though. Im gonna look at other trucks at the next pull and see if they have any. Should I try to fix it?

Mike, I thought your tap water rolled down the hill.

Dont know if this is a prone area for cracks but mine has hairline cracks on both sides where the frame curves at the front of the fuel tank.

I just had mine rodded and flushed and IIRC it was under $60. Cheap enough that you dont have to run that junk through your motor.

It would be easier for us to swap turbo's since im close.

I had an xzt+ and it was a nice little kick in power but it doesnt compare the the edge comp. The comp is adjustable on the fly and has built in boost fooling so you wont need your fooler.