98whitelightnin

I should have all the tools here to change axle bearings if you need a hand. Or better yet, Macdill AFB does but I dont know if the shop is open on Sunday. Full float rear end doesnt have bearings pressed on does it? Been a while since i did seals and cant remember.

My brother bought a new 1500 4x4 single cab in 06 with the 4.7 and a 5 speed auto. it was a gutless motor behind the 5 speed and it idled like it had a small cam. I would rather have the 5.2

Where is deafautotech on this? He rebuilds these for a living.

I remember you saying that. He bought it and converted his other truck to a 5 speed right? I dont want mine to be a hack job so hopefully it all goes well.

Oh I know all to well, my first cummins was an 03 with a 6speed. I went from that with a quadzilla race box to an almost sock 98 auto and it was a complete turd to say the least. I agree the auto is really nice in town, especially when your trying to eat a burger and drive. There is also way to much traffic here and I have been planning on going full billet with the auto but I have been plagued by the tq lock/unlock issue and had enough.

Sounds good. There is a pull or drag race next saturday (cant remember) so might start on sunday if the shop on base is open.

I got it one time nearly a year ago, cleard it and it hasnt came back yet. I would hold off on the new vp if possible, for a while anyway to see what happens.

I think its because your running the a/c. I know its hot out but turn the a/c off and get out for a minute or two and then check it.

Your egt's seem high for post turbo and a stock motor, maybe a boost leak? Mine was post turbo when I bought the truck but I put a copper plug from home depot in it and drilled in the manifold. I have since got another down pipe piece and now no more hole.

Depend how long you cut the down pipe. Mine is about 8-10" above the driveshaft and I want to cut another piece just a little longer.

On a cold motor (140) or below, you can get a 56k ohm resistor and put it in the iat sensor to fool the computer to thinking its around 27 degrees outside.

I got it for less than most people say they have in their 5 speed swaps so im tickled to death. The engine is for sale as is my 47re and dld tcase. I will sell the seats and anyother little nicknacks I dont need for the swap if anybody wants them.

Look in my pic, I just did this mod last week with a boost bolt. The pvc sets just above and the the left of the boost bolt and doesnt bother it at all.

They are real dirty and I think the driver side has a hole but they are electric/leather/lumbar on both driver and passenger seats. I wish they were good but dont think they would be. Maybe with a good cleaning:shrug:. This truck was a loaded laramie, even has radio controls in the steering wheel, I didnt even know that was available in 2000. Let me go get some pics of this pile of junk. - - - Updated - - - I dont know about the seats, wheat do yall think? The last two pics are my favorite.

Here it is

That doesnt seem right unless you have the a/c on. Mine will cool down to 300 in less than a minute and in five minutes it will be around 250 or so if the a/c is off.

Its the same on cr as 24v. Both easy to do AFTER you remove the belt, which is also easy, put a 1/2 drive ratchet in the tensioner pully and pull it up towards the passenger side.

I will try to do a writeup when I get done. I should have everything there, hopefully.

I hate to speak to soon but I can hardly control myself. I finally found the permenant fix for the torque convertor locking and unlocking. Its an nv4500! I found a donor truck on CL and got the guy down to $1800. its a 2000 model and it was a dually but had been converted into a mud truck. The owner rolled it 30 minutes into his first outing and the cab and driverside body got destroyed but the motor and trans/transfercase are still good. best part is I shouldnt have to source any parts except a shifter boot. Getting it for such a good price should enable me to at least break even when I sell the engine and my auto trans/transfer case. My auto is still good and has good firm shifts but nothing takes the place of a stick in my opinion. Did I mention im super excited so I hope something doesnt go wrong. Im picking it up tuesday.

I test fit it all together before the cement and drove to tampa today. I checked it when I got on base and all was good but when I got home the oil had already made it slippry and it fell apart. I got it all cemented now and that stuff is strong.

Got mine done today

I need to get a bigger vehicle for my mail route and am thinking about a 2000ish dakota. Anyone have any thoughts on them. I used my moms 98 1500 with 360 on the route for about a year and except for breaks and mpg it did great. That was in early 2002 so fuel wasnt high though. Here is a truck i might look at tomorrow. http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/ctd/3143065218.html I need something cheap and im not scared of high mile trucks, infact I preffere them.

Maddox won, thanks for yalls help.

I dont know, mine makes a little mess after a pull or a long run anyway so it would probably be messy.

I got most of mine done tonight but wonder how to keep the thing setting where is doesnt fall down? My boost tube comes out back by the fourth injector line and the vent mod wants to fall down on it. - - - Updated - - - Second thought, what if we put the cover on that takes the place of the vent all together and run a small breather on the oil cap. Here is one, third from the bottom of page. http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page2.html