98whitelightnin

Got most of this thing done lastnight. The shop I used was on Macdill AFB and they are only open thursday-saturday and I worked fri-sat so I paid on of the guys at the shop to stay late lastnight, they closed at 7 and we stayed til midnight. Me and a buddy went and picked it up with his trailer tonight and I should have it done tomorrow or monday. I still need to put in clutch hydro's, pedals, cut hole and do driveshafts. I forgot about taking pics lastnight becasuse it was late but I can remember most things if anyone has any questions. I have a question though, there is a cable that I guess goes from the apps to the trans, what do I do with that now?

Got the auto out today but forgot my toolbox keys at home and the flywheel bolts are in the toolbox so we only got to work on it 4-5 hrs today. Will have some more pics up in a few days. Can I take out all the wiring for the trans that I dont need?

Get one from Tim, you dont need two brackets. I went for over a year without calibrating with no ill effects. After calibration there was no difference.http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/

Hoepfully, I believe its a rebuilt trans and it looked new inside from what I could see through the shift tower hole. Im gonna pull an inspection cover tomorrow and take a peak inside.

Yes, there is different power levels. If you have an ez I would get the tst pm3, I would like to try one someday.

Ya, I meant carnage:doh:

Got it pulled yesterday and hopefully will get it put in thursday. First thing you will notice is we put safety first. Got it up on blocks and jackstands and looking at it made me feel weary but after getting under it I felt good. Got a the sawzall out and cut the floor for easy access and then had to cut the crossmember out because it had been welded. After all that we pulled the bolts out of the bellhousing and then the clutch and flywheel. Two bolts in holding the clutch on gave us a problem but we finally got them out. Clutch and flywheel looked almost new and the trans had writing on it like it had been rebuilt so hopefully all is good.

Welcome to the fam Rob. If you can get pics, post them, carbage and all.

You should be able to buy a rebuild kit with synchros or just synchros for it. I have messed with a few T-18's back in my jeepin days and they arent hard to pull apart and replace things inside. Maybe because I was giving $50 and $20 per tranny that I didnt care to dig into them. It might be hard to find parts for the thing though.

I have been using mine for several years with stock input shaft but I do have shift kit/valvebody upgrades. I dont flip the switch untill im in a lockup gear and I let out if im gonna let it shift locked. I dont imagine its the easiest on parts but neither is sled pulling with the throttle pinned to the floor.

Ya, its not meant to be drivin like that. I use mine when the motor ir cold so it doesnt get up to 1800 rpms before it lockups. I usually turn od off when its cold or the speed limit is under 45 and then lockup 3rd gear. When you hit 3rd, hit the lockup switch and use it the same way in 4th. Dont flip the switch whiel your setting still.

Are you starting in 1st with it locked? Mine shifts normal but I lock it in when I want it locked but only in 3rd or 4th gear. If you have the od off then lock it whenever you want in 3rd, if you are driving in od you can lock it whenever you want in 4th.

Got a new thread started on the swap.

You have no power because 0236 is your map sensor code. replace it and power will come back. Geno's garage has the best price on them http://www.genosgarage.com/searchprods.asp. 0121 is apps code so you might want one of those too, Tim has the best price on those http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/ http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/150-p0121-apps-sensor-volts-do-not-agree-idle-validation-signal http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/166-p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long

Try is without the jumper, mine worked with it out sometimes.

I have one in my 98 and couldnt drive it without it lately. Mine never clicked and never had any problems, its actually the only part od my truck that works 100% of the time.

I sold the donor truck tonight. its not gone yet and I still have to pull the tranny tomorrow but I have money in hand for it. Has been a good week!

Found it hiding out in the dash.

It would be nice for sled pulling but for every day driving it wont do much. You getting a new comp or used?

My fold down cupholders that I just took out of the truck had a little light that clipped into the top but im wondering if the map pocket I just replaced it with has a light too? There is a small square hole towards the top but I dont remember unhooking a light and I cant find one dangling behind the dash of the donor truck.

I used to when I was fighting the tq convertor lock/unlock but other than that no dead pedal or anything.

Welcome to the Fam

Does it have abs? I didnt think it came out untill the later 2nd gen trucks? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND%28wpn_tl_name:Brakes\%2C+Suspension+%26+Steering,wpn_cat_name:Wheel+Hubs\%2C+Bearings\%2C+and+Components,wpn_scat_name:Wheel+Hub,part:Wheel+Hub%29&AID=10474661&PID=4178074&SID=159ideerfxu4x&flexid=viglink&cj=1

She drives drom the drivers side? I set in the passenger seat in my car and just have a leg laid over the gear shift. Subaru used to make right hand drive stationwagons for mail carriers but I knew several woman with them and they all said transmissions went out alot.

I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?