Everything posted by 015point9
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Madness...
Crawling up some grades with wives 9,000 pound trailer in my stock 01, I’m still happy I made it further in one hour than what Lewis & Clark made in one day. At least that is how I justify getting passed by everybody, as I’m mashing coffee beans around the fire with my rifle butt.
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Fuel line question
Thanks to all that responded. I learned something.
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Fuel line question
Question 1. Larger 1/2 inch fuel lines seems to be what people like best for supplying fuel. What about the return line (line back to the tank) …Is there any benefit going with a larger return line? (Maybe to relive pressure as return line enters back to module with a small but OEM 5/16 fitting, or maybe the return line needs pressure?) Question 2. I'm having a hard time looking over and down at engine...In the pic, the return line is the lower one right? (top is brake line, middle hose is supply line and lower line is return?)
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Selling stuff on here
Op here....I never knew that section was there. Still learning about this site. Found it now Thanks
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Selling stuff on here
Thought I saw people selling stuff on here. 2nd gen air box actually... I can't find classified section...any help? Thanks
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Sorry but not sorry Mopar1973Man
You said "Especially since I wouldn't have to pay for school!" Oh really, it's a govt program...You'll end up paying one way or another. Lots you have to think about. In my opinion...1st is how often does that AFSC get called up? You feel like taking the chance of packing your trash with 12 hours notice and going over to the big sand box for a year? Used to happen all the time with certain AFSC's. PM me (if you want) because your subject will get way of topic.
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Sorry but not sorry Mopar1973Man
Congrats… Please don’t take this as preaching…trying to help you. As a guy in his 60’s and total service of 30 years, so I’ve been around (way) to long. Make sure you sign up for VA. You can sign up on-line. And then pray really hard, you never need VA! It’s not like when you might need them the most, you walk in and say I’m here. Took my brother in law 5 months to get processed into their system, and at the time, he needed the help the most. Then go and explore your new freedom and have all kinds of fun. Discover what you’ve been missing for 6 years. Then after a couple years (could take that long to get some thoughts of military out of your mind) consider joining the AF reserves. I did after getting out of USMC 7 ½ years and only because I didn’t have 2 cents to rub together. An extra $96.00 for a weekend sure helped back then. Turned out joining the Reserves was one of the best things I ever did. (Little did I know it at the time). Once a month you get to see different people other than the ones you work with everyday. Also in our reserve squadron we had lots of job opportunity’s. Military and civilian jobs. Then if you stick around long enough, retirement pay. And one of the side bonuses of annual tour, you might get the chance to understand, that you did actually made the “right choice” of getting out of actives in the first place Even though I’m a “registrant” of Camp Lejeune’s poison drinking water program, Golf war one and Golf war two and other fun and exciting trips provided by uncle Sam, it was all fun, looking back on them. You mention IT security...Matter of fact our old 1st Shirt ended up as IT manager of (a major base) because of Reserves.
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Return lines into fuel module questions
notlimah “I'm not sure how Airdog runs their lines. What's the instructions say”? Never got instructions when it was installed. I did download some instructions and those instructions have return line from pump going into what Airddog calls “filler neck tee”. I’m not using the filler neck tee. One site shows they are using the large hole for pump return (see below) But fuel system spec’s show “overflow valve release pressure” of 14 psi. So I thought larger of the two connections would get overflow from engine (biggest line). Maybe it doesn't matter, being booth lines are going to end up in the basket? Also in your first pic the small connection (plastic fitting) was a major pain to find and then order. Mine were size 5/16 and Dorman part # 800-080. Thanks
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Return lines into fuel module questions
...Top of fuel module return lines…the smaller connection (roughly) is 5/16, the larger connection is 3/8. With Airdog 100 where would you connect the larger line? Return from engine or return from Airdog pump? ...Being larger lines are usually better in most cases (fuel line, exhaust, etc) Would there be any benefit going to larger return lines to fuel module? Thanks
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Valve Spring seller?
2010 post has most parts labeled. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/1424-dodge-ram-steeringsuspension-components/
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fuel tank interior spout pre and post 1999
Thank you. Sort of what I was thinking, but not sure. 01 fuel... hose connection is 13 inches from module pre 99 fuel... hose connection is 15 inches from module The arm that holds the float/bobber thing, longest reach is 5 inches. So unless I'm filling up on atleast a 45 degree angle, No chance of incoming fuel hitting anything, in my opinion. (IBM Mobile...so where are you in Calif? Might need some work done sometime, kid with loaner car is in Lake Forest area. Your service area?)
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fuel tank interior spout pre and post 1999
2001...replaced fuel tank with pre 1999 tank, I’m not sure exactly what year donor was. On the inside of the (newer) 2001 tank, where the fuel goes in there is a 4 or 5 inch spout that deflects fuel just a little bit to the rear of tank. Pre 1999 tank does not have this spout inside of tank. Parts manual shows tank is used by gas and diesel models. Other minor differences …hose size, where hoses go into tank and different thread on gas cap. Question 1 Any ideas as to why OEM wants fuel diverted a bit to rear of tank? Wondering if I'm missing anything of real importance?
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Anyone Ever Travel/ Camp the Black Hills of N. Dakota?
Correct...no ratings or how good or bad. Just handy for trip planning. Local info always much better. Only local info I could give is how hot it was. Hot weather was the last thing I thought about in the Dakota's
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Anyone Ever Travel/ Camp the Black Hills of N. Dakota?
File I attached (I hope) might help. Campgrounds covering a little bit of everything. Expensive to free. Confirm if still in business using google, unsure how old list is. I think file came from POI listings? If I attached couple files, if you like let me know and I'll post South Dakota if you want. https://community.fmca.com/blogs/entry/1449-rv-must-do-trip-the-badlands-of-south-dakota/ NORTH DAKOTA Campgrounds 95.csv
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Coolant hoses original in 2001/ time for new?
IBMobile said... "but what I really needed under the seat was a VP44." Me to, I was surprised when I wanted to buy a spare to keep under the seat. The place only gave me so many days before I lost core charge.
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Coolant hoses original in 2001/ time for new?
All my hoses are original in 2001 with 107,000 miles. Hoses don't look bad on the outside. No cracking, leaking or soft spots. Maybe they fall apart on the inside first? 17 years old, time to replace or am I lucky or whatever? I'd rather fix in my driveway than along road somewhere, if they are reaching the end of their life span. How long of time do you get out of hoses?
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SCan gauge II
Exposing my lack of knowledge again. Moparman which one would you buy? Link has four listed. I'm on a Samsung 7 with Verizon and have wives old tablet (if I buy her a new one). When obdlink is getting shipped I could be learning about Blue tooth. Car Radio place was talking about blue tooth. Guess its needed with modern electronics.
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SCan gauge II
Apparently I don't learn watching someone smash their finger with hammer, I have to experience it myself
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SCan gauge II
Thanks
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SCan gauge II
"What features of scan gauge do you want?" I would like to keep scan gauge in 2nd gen most of the time. But also use scan gauge for pulling codes in other vehicles, 06 CRV and 03 Ford 5.9 triton. My real old trouble code reader is history. Battery leaked all over. My fault. But since I need another trouble code reader, thought scan gauge might be good idea...thinking I could use in 2nd gen most of time and when needed as code reader on other vehicles.
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SCan gauge II
Owners manual, didn't want to wade through entire 60 page manual, (unless I get one) Question...Can I use this in my 2nd gen most of time but also move it to a different car when I want? Or once you program it for a certain vehicle, that's it? Question...Do all the features advertised work on 2nd gen's or do only show some, because of (age, or type of vehicle)? Question...Would you buy another? If I'm going to get something like a Quadzilla someday , is getting scan gauge worth the money? don't some features overlap? Thanks
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Towing a 3500 after major breakdown.
OP never got the question answered .... "Are there companies that rent Haulers/trucks capable of hauling a 3500"? Being I sort of bla, bla, bla in thread to much and that Uhaul QC folks have called me twice, wondering why I didn't rent from them about a month ago (another project) . I'm more than happy to give them a call and see if they have anything that will do the job. If a 1 ton will fit (width and weight ) I know my 3/4 ton will. But I need weight of front axle and width of a 1 ton. Anybody know approx. what they are?
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Recommendations for towing mirrors
(Not to much showed up in search) Trying to find some towing mirrors that don't wiggle in the wind, stay put and have good field of view. Any recommendations? Looking at Amazon and other places. Hard to figure out what is best looking on-line. If you have aftermarket towing mirrors and happy with them....What type do you have? I've been using the type that slide over existing mirror, works OK, but field of vision is not very good. Going to be putting in new window motors, might as well add towing mirrors at same time. Thanks
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Towing a 3500 after major breakdown.
WOW, what a great program. I never knew that existed. Guess I can throw away my hard copy of the TDR book that had listed state by state diesel mechanics or products that mechanics could either pay to have their name in the book or if they advertised with them, they were automatically listed ? To end user like me, the book was "free" that is if you re-new'd early or for more than 1 year at a time. . Time frame, maybe 15 years ago. I thought it was a big deal when TDR went to on-line copy's and computers got cheap enough that I didn't have to carry around 50 pounds of a laundry sized plastic container full of their magazines. I've got TDR going all the way back to 98 or 99. Wonder what good they are now? I try to keep up with the times and I actually do have hot and cold water at my house or is it a cave? OK, Thanks for the info. It is really useful info. And so now if I'm ever in your neighborhood I can just hit the "go to" button (WOW...lack of knowledge about things like that really dates me. Think I'll go listen to my cassette tapes in my cab)
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Towing a 3500 after major breakdown.
If anyone has been on a long trip and suffered a breakdown, how did you get the truck back home to your shop? I'd like to hear what you did? Very important topic for some folks in my opinion. And I never been able yet to get it back home yet. But here is what we’ve gone through. Wife says we are getting pretty good at getting un-stranded. First of all being stranded is not fun (usually) and can be very expensive. I'm still cry'n & whin'n over the last time we were stranded. We’ve been stranded several times but last time we got stranded we got taken advantage, big time. Not only time wise, but we were lied to and final costs were just under $3,000 worth and total time was 3 weeks 2 days. We’re retired and towing wives 9,000 trailer around, so time of being stranded isn’t that big of deal. We’re towing our motel room with us so to speak. But you don’t know where you might get stranded. We've also spent a 4 days in a yard of a trans/radiator repair shop, overlooking a scenic sewer pond and overly friendly dog with about 10 pounds of grease on it. Being stranded is also challenge. Before the last breakdown, I knew nothing about these pick-ups. That’s why we bought one in 2005 in the first place. . They are supposed to last forever, so why bother learning about them My idea of not having to know anything these trucks has changed 100 percent. Now the more my hood “salutes” in the up position the more I learn. Here is info that might help. Communications… (most important) (phone) T-mobile does not have as good coverage as their maps say they do. We’ve talked to lots of “full time” RVers and now have t-mobile and Verizon, as they are best if you need nationwide coverage. We now each have a phone plan but with different carriers, and price only about $8.00 more a month than what we were paying for one carrier with both phones on plan. Now very seldom both of us don’t have coverage. (getting parts and shipments overnighted to you) UPS or Fedex stores but small places Mom and Pop places are best to get parts shipped to you. Just someplace with an address that won’t mind getting a shipment or two for you. ( wifi) Somewhere near Souix Falls the ABS light goes off. It’s Sat afternoon, Dodge dealer said I’ll have to wait till Monday. I got on-line (TDR) with the wifi hot spot and found what to check. Found elec connection right above diff came loose. Couple Zip ties from Ace hardware and good to go. (computer) Now days I’m even more prepared and hopefully don’t get separated from my money as quick. To help me, everything I find and learn I save to my computer. You may not have internet where you break down at, but I can still look at computer without any internet. I have lots of info saved, maybe too much. Recently I renamed my saved files and have files broken down into sections like the Dodge manual is set up. And yes, I carry the manuals with me. 02 - Suspension 09 - Engine 15 - 21-Transmission 03 - Rear Axle 10 - Lubrication 16 - Drive Shafts 22-Wheels & Tires 05 - Brakes 11 - Exhaust 17 - 23-Body 06 - Clutch 12 - 18 - Performance 24-Heat A/C 07 - Cooling 13 - Frame & Bumpers 19-Steering 25-Emissions 08 - Electrical 14 - Fuel 20- 26-Miscellaneous Example…if I save an article that main focus is “fuel” I start my file name with “14”, see above, section 14 is fuel. If I were to save this posting I would probably save it under section 26 which is “miscellaneous”. So I would copy to word file and name as “26 ideas for major breakdown”. For me saved info so much easier to find, especially after you get lots of files saved. Mechanics…used to be a turbo diesel shop on about every corner. Not anymore. Some are listed under “diesel repair” some under “auto repair” depends on the area you are stuck at I think. Start by asking locals…But be careful, one time we ended up at a “good mechanic” that was recommended and I think he was a good mechanic, but for gas. He installed a new fuel module, But he installed the gas model. It worked for maybe ¼ tank, then wouldn't suck fuel anymore. This 1st mechanic felt so bad he loaned us his car for the day, so we could get our truck to another shop that knew something about diesels. That “one” day car loan turned out to be 3 weeks! Reason was the other 2 “diesel” mechanics weren’t so good either. Save all your old parts! The second mechanic noticed the “gas” fuel module and wanted $250.00 for a "big line" replacement module, we drove back to the first mechanic and fished our old fuel module out of his trash dumpster. The 2nd mechanic was taking forever. Our pick up was parked for several days in between about a dozen farm tractors and gigantic irrigation pumps, and no work being done. They were taking care of their “bread and butter” accounts first. Not what they called "winter visitors" code words for we don't care when you want it. We went looking for other mechanic’s and ended up at a shopping center (that had wifi) asking locals that had 2nd gens for recommendations. Yuma does not have very many 2nd gens compared to Ford and I wonder if heat has something to do with it? Also Dodge needs to put larger badges on their diesels. I don’t like “stocking” people when they are parking to see what badge they have, gas or diesel. Dealers---We have not found a dealer yet that either doesn’t have the time or wants me to pay for his “admission cost” of them pulling codes (usually around a hundred dollar bill). So they are our last resort. Lots of time their mechanics are kids that were in diapers when our 2nd gen were made. That doesn’t bother me as much as most of these kids don’t care about the quality of their work. And more times than not, their knowledge is lacking and just want to throw parts at it. So we avoid dealers. Rv parks are great resource for mobile mechanics--- many have mechanic’s info on a board or ask management. ---Some mobile mechanics are very good. Problem is you really don’t know until your wallet is flattened So if they have a cards on the wall, pick with the one with the oldest looking service truck. If you can get their address, google up their address on a map program. Pick the one with most junk in their yard. They know how to put stuff together. We disregard the reviews on yelp type reviews. Brother and sisters, aunts and uncles can make anybody’s reviews look good. ---Other info---Many web sites have what they call “911” or need help now type thing. Post what your problem is and maybe you might luck out and get help. But be very careful of who’s advice you take. Confirm all advice you get. That is where your saved files come in handy. On the Cummins web site under “state” listings they have the “pres” of the state. Ask them if they answer who they would call or do. My “go to” sites are (and in this order) Moparman, TDR then cummins web site. I have contact info of a retired Cummins engineer that eats and sleeps cummins, but communication is a problem with him. Him and his wife full time RV and usually are at some campground without any communication. He always writes back but again communication very important. When they are in town, doing laundry and decide to give a call a week later. Also might help you of what to bring, there are lots of postings about what to carry in your “just in case” tool box for repairs on the road. Usually being broke down sucks, but here is a fun example…In Waitsburg WA smoke started coming out from under the hood. If lifted the hood, and remember I don’t know much about these trucks. I asked at the grocery store “who might be able to fix it”. Cashier asked where I was broke down at. We gave cashier my Mom in law’s address. Then we stopped by the post office and by the time we got back to my Mom in laws place, some guy was already in her driveway. (News travel fast in small towns) he had big chrome stacks coming out of his bed and jacked up so high one would need a ladder to get in. Took him about 5 min to say our ac compressor was bound up and pulley wasn’t moving at all and the pulley melted the belt. And I would have to get new ac compressor out of Spokane or maybe Walla Walla if we were lucky. Then he banged with his fist real hard near the radiator, pointing out a decal that I never noticed before. The decal had the belt routing for “ac and without ac”. He called local garage for the belt with “no ac” in order to bypass compressor, but they didn’t have one. He hangs up the phone and says, “one more angle to try”. He called his girlfriend that was working in Walla Walla. He had her pick up the belt on her way home to Waitsburg. Later that night during diner, we hear our truck start and there he was all smiles. I asked “how much” is said $25.00 for changing belt and the price of the new belt. Anyways wife gives him $200.00 for all his troubles and big tip IMO. My Mom in law called him for years after that to do her auto work. When he pulls out of her driveway, he puts about 10 tons of smoke in the air and waving good by. Mom in law is staring at all the smoke through her kitchen window and innocently says “I hope that $200 dollars is enough to get his truck fixed, see all that smoke, something is wrong”