015point9

Snowbird friends of ours attend the TDR rally every year, on their way from Yuma back to Spokane. We couldn't attend this year. But he did e-mail me this years schedule. Something that caught my eye was ... "Chrysler is pleased to introduce the soon-to-be-launched wiTECH system, setting the standard of excellence in vehicle service diagnostics! This state of the art system consists of:... https://dcctools.com/en/witech/index.html Supposed to become "technicians best tool".

I read every post about power mods. Just want more power to pull around 9k trailer. It seems everybody has their own idea when it comes to power.

I don't know if 98.5's have label like my 01 does but open glove box, and on the glove box door I have a white sticky label that has some info including my axle ratio. There is also a way by "de-coding" your vin number. Of course I have no idea how you would tell if previous owner might of already changed it out. Mine also had an "axle tag" A great tool that helped me find out what I need for a replacement fuel tank is in this post, that has link above. Rear axles are in Group 3 ... Group - 3 Rear Axle Illustration Title Group-Fig. No. Rear Axle Axle Assembly,Rear,Chrysler Model 9.25,BE 1,6.......................................................................................... Fig. 3 - 110 Axle Assembly,Rear,Dana Model 60,BE 2,7...............................................................................................Fig. 3 - 120 Axle Assembly,Rear,Dana Model 70,BE 2,7...............................................................................................Fig. 3 - 130 Axle Assembly,Rear,Dana Model 80,BE 2,3,7,8...........................................................................................Fig. 3 - 140 Differential and Housing Axle,Rear,with Differential Parts,Chrysler 9.25,BE 1,6....................................................................................Fig. 3 - 210 Axle,Rear,with Differential Parts,Dana Model 60,BE 2,7..................................................................................Fig. 3 - 220 Axle,Rear,with Differential Parts,Dana Model 70,BE 2,7..................................................................................Fig. 3 - 230 Axle,Rear,with Differential Parts,Dana Model 80,BE 2,3,7,8..............................................................................Fig. 3 - 240 I'm over by SeaTac if you find any wrecked please let me know. I'm looking for a fuel tank and fan and few other parts.

"Does anyone have suggestions on brand/model?" We spend 1/2 the year or more in ours, or used to...until medical problems. Our latest is a 2013 Arctic Fox, sure has been good to us and held together well. They are mostly on west coast, don't know where you are located at. For full timing in that size of trailer... heated tanks and washer/dryer and two A/C's with 50 amp would be a bonus. In-laws have an older Comfort, don't know if they are still made, but there's is well built.

Please post what you do for power and how it works out. The 7/11 type store near the hiway stop sign has pretty good coffee IMO. Guy in neighbor hood hauls vehicles around that car dealers buy from each other. Mostly Seattle area and Portland, but he says he makes it to Spokane every now and then. Thinking about getting my truck over there to have Dynamic work on trans, with no big rush. And call me when he's done. Thereby missing inlaws.

Thanks...What I was quoted $ ($3,500) was for "stage 1" which is I understand just a little bit above stock IMO. HP you have to much for me, I'd get into to much trouble. . I just need something little bit heavier duty for 8,000 pound trailer. I'll probably park trailer at in-laws house (Spokane Valley or Veradale?) and have Dynamic do his thing. I'm also going thru him because...when I talked with him last summer I get the feeling he is trying to solve a problem for me versus when I talk shops around Puget sound I feel like I'm getting a sales job.

Two questions... (1) $4,500 trans...Last summer if I remember right around $3,500 for a "stag1" . What all goodies are you getting for $4,500? (2) Anybody have any good ideas to get a 3/4 ton from Seattle area to his shop? OR what could possibly go wrong with a local shop remove trans, then I'll take my trans over to him and bring it back to local shop and have trans install back in?

Op here...and not a very experienced OP Agree 100% Operator error on my part! After getting gauge and new fittings from Vulcan I wasn't sure of best way to have portable gauge hooked up and be able to drive around to get WOT pressure. Thing about it later I should of duck taped it to windshield and drove around to get WOT reading. I'm not making any big power. Yes, when fuel was being sucked from fuel module with a FASS pump was hooked up to it, everything worked OK. When the FASS fell apart 60,000 miles, the (now X mechanic) installed an AirDog said "it was best to go with a draw straw" and then the next day after he couldn't get it to work, so he installed a sump. Then two months later the sump was leaking, so I'm in process of getting the sump leak free going back to sucking fuel from fuel module. Sure been a challenge for me not knowing anything. This fuel system has been only thing to go wrong since I've got it in 2005. Before the fuel system fell apart, never had it to a shop in 11 years of me owning it for any mechanical failure. Sure has been making up for lost time lately This web site has sure been very helpful to me. I've sure learned a lot. Thanks for all the help.

Currently have all fuel lines removed from fuel tank to VP44. The lines that are inside the fuel module are 3/8 in size (about 8 inches worth)? All other lines to VP44 are ½ inch. So just the line inside the fuel module are 3/8. Before I took the Air dog pump off , was at 21psi at idle using Vulcan pressure gauge. Unsure about fuel PSI in actual use, just at idle, before I took it apart . (Also going to install pressure gauge) How much do you think or guess a 8 inches of 3/8 line inside fuel module will affect PSI at VP44. The reason I don't want to change out smaller fitting now is because the fitting in top on module has been glued in and don't want to take chance of breaking the thing.

(Not sure where to post...Please move to right place) Finally going to upgrade my 2001 stock radio...am/fm, cd with something better. Trying to figure out what I should get, so I can burn cd's or MP3's. Or are cd's/mp3's outdated now days? Over all goal is to play what I want, when I want and go down road with "my" music playing a little bit louder than noise of motor. If cd's are still the way to go, where is best place download from? Any recommendations for a good music machine?

Looking forward to your updates. Somewhere on here he posted all the things he does when he rebuilds.

Another thing you might check is your brake controller. For some reason mine was really sensitive with our new trailer. With our older late 90's 5thwheel , no problem. With 2012 trailer it took some time to get it set right. But in the mean time the front brakes kept lighting up ABS light in city traffic. And I have no idea why.

Would this work on Mopar stuff? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4460-Electrical-Connector-Separator/dp/B00BVL7LUY

I’ve noticed more and more elec connections have a little tab or plastic something to keep the connection in place, supposedly makes connection better? I broke a plastic tab today using a nail trying to get connection apart. What do you use?

Finally giving into adding 2 stroke oil. Are there any 2 or 3 or even 5 gallon reservoir/container (with measurements) that gets mounted somewhere and if you put in 30 gallon of fuel, you can open a drain valve on reservoir and gravity feed into tank? Used to mix 2 stroke oil for outboard motors about 3 times a week. Gets messy sometimes no matter who well you plan it out.

Never mind, blew it again.

(2001 3/4 ton, I have disk on mine) Probably 99.999 people already now this, but just in case I had probably 30-40% meat left, but my sliding bolt in right rear caliper kept getting stuck or dragging and was not letting the brake release all the way. So I changed the right rear only. After changing I looked at the mess of stuff near the master cylinder and thought surly this thing has a limiting valve or proportioning valve. Well mine does have a front and rear valves but no adjustment side to side, like good size trucks do. Left Seattle pulling 9,000 pound trailer. Made it to LA but in stop and go traffic, lots of smoke and stink. No problem over any pass between Seattle an LA. (B&D exhaust brake) But stop and go traffic in LA was a big problem. Wife kept looking out her mirror asking "are you sure nothing is wrong?" My answer..."Don't worry honey, the smoke and stink is just Calif fuel and our truck is just not used to it. Just look at the exhaust pipe, see all the blue smoke?" Made it passed downtown and bad areas and stopped little bit south of Buena Park. I let it sit for about 2 hours then onward very close to my kids trailer shop in Orange (near Disneyland). Son hasn't let me forget what a bad mechanic I am. My son ended up having to re-do my job. The "re-built" calipers came mud on them, but at least the mud was spray painted same color as caliper

Thanks for reply's. I think the Amazon link is it. Going to print out the pic to make sure and make sure I don't do any other damage getting old part out. Not exactly sure how hinges unhook to remove yet. As far what else to do with the space or ideas there are a few here. https://www.google.com/search?q=ram+overhead+console+mod&biw=1301&bih=589&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXt77QmcDSAhVMw2MKHV2DCmIQ_AUICCgD#imgrc=_

Op here...Well then I messed up. The compartment I'm talking about, I keep a small calculator or sunglasses in it. I thought I was close looking at the pic in parts manual.

In the parts manual, Figure 08A-430, The overhead console has a part named "DOOR, Garage Door Opener" (I guess your garage door open supposed to go) Anyway the plastic tag that you push in to open broke today. This is the little compartment that is near the mpg, trip meter readout thing. Above the rear view mirror. Any good ideas what to do with that space to make it useful? Thanks

Just a heads up. There are some (lack of better term) plastic nuts on top of the plastic grill thing between the hood and windshield. Who ever does your work, show them that they are all on there. And if they break any, or don't put them back... they will get paid when those plastic things are re-stalled. Was a big hassle to replace those things , at least for me.

Never been there but when I try to check out a campground I usually start with rv park reviews. Many times someone leaving a review will post something. Not that info is 100% accurate, but many times you can get a "feel" for it. Sometimes you can google the name of campground in pic mode and see some pics that will lead you to blogs or other info. Also not unusual for me to call. https://www.google.com/search?q=fort+robinson+state+park&biw=1301&bih=589&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiGkr2Ow67SAhVQ62MKHa_HDlEQ_AUIBygC#tbm=isch&q=camping+%26+fort+robinson+state+park&* http://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/nebraska/crawford/fort-robinson-state-park

If I don't put on many miles a year... How often should I change fluids (Brakes, radiator, etc) Most articles I see recommend changing based on mileage not time. Thanks

(Op here) Thanks KATOOM After reading your post I think I will get one with larger capacity and cooling fins. Thinking about using the trans gauge and installing a toggle switch. Toggle switched one way would be trans and toggle switch flipped another way would be diff? Thinking about using trans gauge for both seems "OK" to me on the surface. But that is typing in front of key board. Actually making it happen might be another story. Thanks

Thanks for response. I did make a mistake in my posting. I use "royal purple" not dino oil for diff fluid. I agree, engineers probably worked out the problems. Over the years (way to many) I've only had one rear diff that needed anything fixed other than normal service. Third member is probably most bullet proof of entire vehicle IMO. Later this summer, just to see what is going on, I think I'll play around with trans temp probe and mickey mouse the probe into diff. And plug the hole in trans off. Nothing long term. Just get an understanding of what diff temps are when towing. That is assuming there is enough room on inside of diff for probe. Thanks again