015point9

That did the trick. I'm either weak or those connectors are pretty strong, of course 1st time apart since I've owned it in 2005. Almost had to use plyiers. Now what is best practice after I re do battery cables? Die electric grease and then spray connector with something to keep water tight? What do you find best to soldier with and what soldier to use? Thanks for your help.

Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender. Dont want to break any more. Any help correct way? Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery. Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way. Plastic puzzle to me. Little numbers 11184 on connector. Do they need special tools... or what's the secret! Thanks

I'm thinking about vair also...fill up any tires yet? My old cheap air pump had to run long time to fill up a tire, worked ok on air bags but higher psi worked pump hard.

Thanks for info. So many parts of Elec is confusing to me. Problem for me is (I think) when I do learn something, it's usually long time before I need it again. So doesn't get cemented in my mind.

Thanks everybody... Timd32... looks like I can escape (this time) from those "amp clamps" doing a volt drop test as described above. WOW those "amp clamps" are more than what I paid for the meter. Mopar1973Man...I actually glanced at the FSM before posting. But not enough it appears. I learned something, in my mind I thought the proper way to test would be to see if, and how many amps from a known source (battery) made it to the other end.

Thanks... I actually started flukes on line lessons when I got my fluke 117 with a coupon that was in the box. Somethings got thru my thick skull, but not enough I guess. Sort of lost interest with micro measuring stuff. But never saw what you have linked to. Thank you, I'll read thru. While this fluke is a "true rms" amp's dont go high enough, imo. But I've got a amp gauge because of starter problems in my old slant six years ago Thinking about measuring starting amps in a same year as my truck, to see if amp draw is about the same being pushed thru cables. Starters draw quite a few amps if I remember right.

The lead part on battery that goes to battery broke, I cut cable back about an inch. I dont see any visible corrosion. (Drop voltage test?) When I put one end of the now cut off lead lug i lose 1 volt at other end. And with volt meter i can get a beep doing a continuity test. Any suggestions for a proper elec test in order to ensure stock cable good or not. Thanks

What about Towing 8000 lb trailer? With overdrive not engaged the droning noise just drives me nuts. With od engaged (lower rpm) noise level much better. With od engaged is there excess wear?

Thank you.

Took out the four bolts of battery tray, that I see under battery...tray is still held in by something. Is it more bolts underneath tray or a plastic tab that folds under something or? Any hints that appreciate it... thanks

Dana is international company you could probably get a cross reference number or what they used in UK. Then go junk yard or used shopping locally. Have to make sure other stuff bolts up though. Just thinking on my part. When I was in Germany, I thought about vp44's that were used more on auto's over there but not here. Opal bigger market over there compared to US for example.

https://kingconnect.com/product/king-dome/

So do those fans ever come off and do a happy dance in the radiator?

Don't feel alone...

My 01 doesnt get used much anymore, I start it about once a month for about 15 min. Used to get very little corrosion peach fuzz on battery cable when used daily. But now being parked lots of build up.

Online at http://www.rvretailcatalog.com/ PM going to be sent soon.

ibmoble... Do you have new ntp/stag book? Won't have RV place or name at top, but rest of book should look the same

After weather like this if the wife goes outside it's likesetting up the buffet table for mosquitos. Edited 13 minutes ago by dripley That is what I remember as a kid in Holly Ridge. North Carolina.

98whitelightin... Did you look inside air tube to turbo?

I'm going to hold off ordering till you get back back on your feet. Follow Dr's orders, enjoy the nurses. Hopefully hosp food is good or at least OK.

Thanks...yes up steel mesh side toward turbo is alot cleaner.

After reading above write up. Baldwin has wire on inside where others might not. If you guys using without internal wire... Ever hear of one collapsing?

Been thing about same thing. 1 I'll check out what jag1 said 2. Questions about bhaf... do I need a heat shield for stock power or just nice to have? The very few I've seen do not look good to me. Sort of like a guy around town that put an exhaust tip on, that is about 10 inches in diameter. Looks goofy to me. But maybe I'll have to go with bhaf.

That's my problem in life, not spending enough money what I have is off the shelf from auto part store...may $15.00 is that a custom fancy thing or ??? All gone now, soap and water, cleaned up pretty good.

For sure going to change filter. But not sure to what yet. Anybody care to chime in as to how I could test air box to see if it was leaking? I cant visually see any dirt track or dirt stream