015point9

I'm not sure if filter is letting stuff through or element paper is falling apart and getting suck in. Wish I could think of a way to determine if dust or paper element. I scraped some off trying to put a match to it, to see if dust or paper product. Not enough to catch fire. But the color closely matches filter paper color. Dust would be more brownish I would think.

No easier when your older. Wife had hip replacement at 71 and doc said one of the easier hip replacements he's done. He said her hip was bone on bone for so long with no cartilage in between bones that old hip bones just fell out. Couldn't operate earlier because of all cancer meds and blood thinners. So I guess when you get older bones just fall out Now her sister 67, my age is still on cane from knee replacement over 1 year ago. Hell getting old I guess. But I made it through school without google

In 3rd pic, Hard to see in real small letters "made in USA" Looking forward to your report back as I think we have about same weather? Your west of cascades? Lots of humidity and rain? Wish I could take it back. Bought in Yuma, AZ 3 years ago.

Couple days ago i removed the "air inlet tube", the big hose from air filter box to the turbo. The hose has particles I've never seen before. Wix filter only has about 2800 miles on it. Many miles from the maintenance schedule "light duty "B" of "inspect/replace every 15,000 miles". Folding air filter in half, I can see semi loose strands bewteen the pleats waiting to be sucked in. About same size of 3 days of no shaving. Never noticed it before... Is this normal?

Sounds like he wants new roof being he doesnt know how much wood damage and get up on roof now versus 10 years from now. RV roofs suck. By now you would think somebody would of come up with a Tupperware lid type roof to just snap on. Going to find my RV part books and post some options. Because he is going to have to find out if any damaged wood is cosmetic or structural. Type of current roof, epdm or top or something that has material that looks like felt under wood. If wood or alum frame. If alum frame. Wood damage no big deal structural wise. But if wood frame, bad wood might involve the wood framing, which would suck and be lots more work involved.

Lift pumps, make sure to send it warranty card. Then call about month later to make sure.

Jag1 said..."Vulkem caulk is a polyurethane I would test on the EPDM first. I'm happy with what I use for caulking at present time. But before i found some stuff i liked i used to look up msds sheet on whatever caulking you I was thinking about using and cross reference to one of the many EPDM comparability charts on line. 3m5200... good stuff until you have to remove it. Stuff is like concrete, more ways than one. Being rv's are basically a wobbley box on wheels, caulking should remain somewhat flexible. over last 20 years plus using different brands/types I've had best results following winabago "caulking call out" sheets. I dont own a winabago product, but they have usually best parts availability. And Not because stuff is superior but because I can go to any winabago dealer in US and get caulk that will match what I already applied and know color will match. And caulk should be less than a year old. I dont get caulk on line anymore because last experiance of caulk was already 3 years old when I got it. If price is a concern order on line. Not cheap at RV dealer. I'll post a pic of my box of goodies for caulking sometime. https://winnebagoind.com/diagram/Sealant.htm

https://www.fastcompany.com/90359254/michelins-ingenious-new-tires-ensure-youll-never-get-a-flat-again Bet these airless tires going to cost plenty

Who is "he"? I thought you was "he".

Trying again... poor phone service at my end today. Hope pic uploads before phone "times out" By pic, which diode do I need?

Thanks for responding...Will take pic of my alt tomarrow.

Is there a way to tell which Denso diode I need... by looking at the alt is still hooked up? Like maybe that threaded bolt coming out is in different spot?

How do you know its needs replacing, big rips or black showing thru? My 03 motorhome looked shot with black showing. Ran across the old CruiseAmerica parts manager in our RV travels. He told me what they use, said to get some stuff called rc2000 by inland coatings. I called inland coatings to see where to buy, as I couldn't find it locally, and they had their sales rep called me. Turns out that he also has a Northwood RV also. Got RC2000 at a regular roofing supply place that has rubber roof materials (mostly commercial buildings) and not an RV dealer. He gave me some instructions that were not on the can and have been happy since doing it in 2011. check out their project page. https://inlandcoatings.com/projects-portfolio/ If your interested in using rc2000 I'll post up what their sales rep had me do. The big box stores has coatings also but I don't think they are as good. But if you need new EPDM... try pricing at regular roofing supply places that deal in rubber roofing products. RV places way out of line IMO. EPDM comes in different thickness (all in mils thickness) RV manufactures use about cheapest stuff they can get. Bear in mind if you get really thick stiff, makes it really hard to roll over roof edge. Before tearing off old, make sure you have new vents and A/C gasket. You can pull the "garnish trim ring" on inside of a/c, skylights, vents to see how OEM cut out opening. One of my few brain cells of memory that I left remembers, that either the inland coating RC2000 or the glue that I used is not be sold in Calif. (Glue was for different project, not roof coating) Coating is 8 years old now. You can see bird crap and all. Think I've washed off roof 3 years ago? RC2000 still doing its job. Exposed all year in my NW weather. But maybe sun where you are maybe more harmful? (Maybe I'll clean it and get another pic) ? But not today

OK thanks for info. Your right...hard for DIY'er to get it right. Not sure I'm going to mess with it now that I see how it's modified to come on earlier. I know right now my fan works to spec's. While I would like for it come on earlier, I can easely see where my desired end result might not turn out as planned and me having to buy another.

Not exactly sure 100%...about 190 all day long till a grade either steep or not so steep but long. I dont think I've ever been over 210 pulling trailer in western US. Reson for asking, I was wondering if there was a way to start fan sooner? Somewhere in my head I thought you could add more silicone mixture to fan hub or add a different sensor to make fan start sooner, before i got up to 210.

This will be interesting...please keep us dated. I hate buying "new" and turns out to be false.

What do you carry with you in the way of items you might need when many miles from home and break down,? Not in the boonies but where you dont know which mechanic to call. When we broke down in Yuma I ended up calling the guy with most positive on-line reviews and in business over five years. What a $3,000 mistake that turned out to be.

We used to Winter in Yuma Arizona right on the US Mexican border. Local news usually had with border patrol busted that day. it's so Innovative what people do.

Can't help you with elec questions...but Congratulations on trailer. My 30 footer's tongue weight is 930 pds. Real close my oem's "max tongue weight" of thousands pounds (with weight distribution hitch) Here's to lots of enjoyment of your new purchase.

Stock.. silicone material in a hub, on a bearing. Not aftermarket elec. Anyway to tweak it?

Would this mod be worth it... Thinking about installing a manual override switch for the fan. My temp gauge goes to about 210 on hard upgrades pulling my trailer (normal I understand) and wondering if it would make any sense to start the fan earlier (somehow) if so how would I hook that up.

Some guy has or had a blog of stuff he found. For vacations he goes all over world finding goodies. Canadain guy, so he went to Cuba (alright for them I guess) found real old Spanish coins...just interesting to me.

I see. Not only was I not sure where to put it at, I wasn't sure if toggle switch would let elec "bleed over" and produce inaccurate temps. My first in the very beginning...thought was to use probe of that pana Pacific temp gauge. But temps are to high for pana Pacific imo, but not 100% sure.

https://www.hoeslidiesel.com/products/vp44-repair-harness-1998-5-2002-dodge-cummins Only $219.00. Wow...must have some gold in it somewhere. Imo. What I'm I missing?

Exhaust brakes... the brand that Mopar man posted I would stick with that brand, when we were traveling around the u.s. very few places even heard of a BD brand that I have ... and you might want to have your transmission set up so your exhaust brake will work in 2nd gear, being it's an automatic. Just stuff to think about. And of course all that stuff takes money.