dripley

Whats a good price out your way?

Then we are a bit different. My scan gauge showed the spikes. And every so often when it surged it would pop an APPS code then go dead pedal for a minute or so. After that it would run fine for a day or 6 tiil it would happen again. The ECM sends a 5v signal to all of the sensors. A short or bad sensor or in my case a bad splice caused me heart ache. The engine wiring diagrams in the articles section show it better than I can explain. I am an electrical midget compared to some aroud here.

I have experienced this some myself. The first time was with an ECM failure. Probably not your issue since you can still drive it. The second time it turned out to be, at least ad far as I could tell, a bad splice in the 5v signal wire for the sensors. That is where I would start. Even another failing sensor on the that circuit can cause crazy s**t to happen. How to pin it down, I dont know. Have you checked for codes? The vacuum has nothing to with fueling, at least on my 02. It only controls some mechanical things like HVAC, CAD, cruise control.

Me too, on 2 seperate occasions 4 years apart. It sucked that the pump failed but a 5 minute phone call and a free replcement was on the way each time.

Maybe the gauge or a wire as mentioned. A lot of that depends on whether you have a mechanical or electric gauge. Hard to say. A test gaige, some auto parts store loan them, would be you best bet for now and there is a test port on the VP.

The clips that held mine were pretty rusty where the clamped the bezel. I was afraid they might snap when I pushed on them. But they didn't. Silicone wouldmprobably work. It is a miracle goo. I will keep an out for a wood grain one. Never know what you might find out there.

You have raptor. Did not know those came in 4g. My AD 165 has a dual filter head. If its just a drip it wont effect your pressure enogh to notice. You might put a small stainless steel hose clamp on it and see ifmthat helps it. I cant remeber whether those quick disconnects are are push lock or barbed or fixed like @98whitelightnin is saying. Can you get a picture of the fuel lines a few inches away from the pump on either side? Since you do not know your what uour pressure is, I would not turn it up. You do have enough pressure to make the fittings leak. So there is pressure there.

It's aall good. Just dont aleays have snappy remarks. It is nice not to have that insert not flopping around. This one looks like mine did 300k miles ago

After riding around formthe past 2 or 3 years with this broken pos, i got upgrade. I think I gotm2 more horse power out of it. I went to the salvage yard Saturday. A long put off trip.

Dont know about the knock but the head gasket might leaking back there. @Mopar1973Man just went thru that one. Mine sprung a leak at the right front corner about a year ago.

There is a very good chance you already have 1/2 fuel lines with the AD pump you have on it. Check the lines going to the pump. The pump will ahve 2 filters on it and most lkely mounted on the frame rails near the rear of the drivers door. They should flexable and about 3/4" or so in diameter. Then its just a matter of chasing where they go.

Any key on circuit will work. The bad thing is if you have a wreck and rupture a fuel line the pump will keep pumping until you cut if off. The ECM will shut it down if the motor stops turning. Just something to think about.

It is not that hard to do. Mike has an article on it, so does Blue Chip diesel. BC is the one I used since it was pre moparman. I read the instructions several times before I did it and kept them handy while doing it. An extra pair off hands is handy plus it keeps from drinking all the beer yourself. My son and I did my first one in 4.5 hours. Did the next one my self in about the same time. I dont get in hurry when doing a lot of projects unless it is an emergency. It would be good to see what others might say about the problem before completely condemning it.

The psg is the computer on the VP.

If you are going with the 035 50 20's you will be fine. They are only .4" taller than my 265 75 16's and stiil smaller than 285's. Width wise you will put extra strain on the steering. I would sure find out whats going on with your fuel pressure. The VP will pull its own fuel and run but it is very hard on it. The VP is another $1000 bill.

The list can be quite daunting. The articles section covers it fairly well. First off as an example if you want the bigger tire and wheels some front end work might be necessary. If the parts are oe they could be nearing the end of their life span. I changed mine at 240k. Some here have seen better but not many. If you have that done somewhere its 1000 dollar bill +. If you do it yourself a 400 dollar bill. I am not saying you need to do this, it may have already been done or the oe parts are still good for now. Its just an unkown. Then say you want to start adding power. The first thing you need to do is beef up the transmission to handle it. That might have already have been done. Another unknown. Your VP, injection pump, is it the oe, has it been replaced? There life spans can be bit erratic on longevity. They dont always give much warning before they fail and then some times they do. Just another unkown. These trucks are very reliable but you do have to keep up with them. The more you can do for yourself the more money you save. And just to add the site runs on a subscription base. The subscription fees are very small. If you do one repair on your own with the advice here and it pays for itself. I dont have a clue how much money I have saved on labor and diagnostics compared to what I have donated over the years. But I am way to the good.

I have a spare pair just for such occasions

self portrait I presume???

You know me, not always the brightest bulb in the pack.

That works.

yep what he said.

Mine is the opposite, While sees some colder weather depending on where I am working, it seldom gets changed except for siphoning the reservoir out and adding new fluid. but I seem to be the exception to the rule.

I am not the best ot explain it but in a nut shell the 305 is the width of the tire, the 50 is the depth of the sidewall, and the 20 is the rim size. If you google tire calculator there will be several places the you can compare tire sizes. I run 265 75 16's. Your 20's are just a touch bigger, 32 tall to mine that are 31.6 tall. The comparison calculator will show you that. The taller tire will throw you speedo off a little as in you will be going faster than it says. The tires that stand proud of the fenders will throw what ever you drive thru onto the truck. Just a price you have to pay for the wider stance. the wheel offset will play into it to. The stock wheels are 6* offset I believe but cant remember whether it is positive or negative. My after market wheels are 0* offset and that pushes the wheels out about 1.25" further that stock. The 12's at 0* will push them out maybe 3.5" past the fender. So check the wheel offset unless you want them out there. My old arse tells me to get the truck right first and then add the extras. But then again it aint my truck.

There ought to be a smart a$$ button with the other buttons. @Mopar1973Man how about it????

How do you ever expect to hit a half mil on the odometer if ya only drive 4k a year.