dripley

No. You know I wouldnt do that to you. He had a couple unopened ones left.

I cant say mine threw me back in the seat new and stock.

I guess @Mopar1973Man gets the prize then. the prize is @Dieselfuture's left over beer. Save him some @JAG1. @Evan, we would like to thank you for this wonderful contest.

I did a little checking and the OD gear in the auto is .69 vs my 6 speed is .73. That would make a difference also. At first @Jesniccad had said he saw 1700 at 70. That screams bigger tires. The 1900 not so.

Yes, lots of people. The above should solve it. As far the temp reading on the Quad, it is my understanding it only reads to 204* then reverts to the -40 you are seeing. I believe that is a quirk with the Quad.

Earlier you said you had 27 and not a 29, thats why I mentioned it. Been this way since you bought it?

I'm in, if I can get there.

Check the model number on the pump yourself and see what it says. AS I remember the last 2 numbers will tell you what pump you have. If my memory serves me the last 2 numbers is what you are looking for. 27 is an SO pump, 28 is and HO and 29 is for the industrial applications.That is if IIRC. 18 psi of boost is not unusual for a truck that has no boost elbow on it. The stock waste gate opens in that general area, 18 to 20 psi. The rpm still seems a little low for 70 but I dont remember how different the the OD gears are in the auto compared to the manual.

Thats my garage. I laid a plywood floor for the engine hoist. Not bad for this repair expect for the rain but every thing stayed dry. I pulled the tranny twice out there and that was no fun. The 3rd time I took it to a local shop I know and let them put the clutch in. It was in the dead winter and I could not make myself do that one.

I think you both get a prize.

I did check torque since I figure it came from the factory that way and lasted 440k and 17 years. If I ever go up on the power I will just add studs later. It was a bust around here yesterday, rained most of the day and misty for the rest. We will see .

I saw that the other day.

No, I got them all. After talking with a couple folks I decided to do a hybrid install. The 2 below them are the studs also. Those 2 were pain to get wrench on when I took it off so I figured to match top and bottom. I did remove the rear one after picture and installed the stock bolt so I could mount the heater return back to it.

I did not get as far as I wanted today. But got exhaust manifold and turbo on with new gaskets for both. So the exhaust side is done. Still cant believe I have had no frozen or brokem bolts. My turbo has not been off the truck in 13 years. Tomorrow I work on the fuel side then valve train. We will see how far I get. <

My truck with the same size tires as you, 265 75 16, turns 2000 rpm at 70 mph. Several others here have quoted the same rpm on there 265's. Are sure about your tire size? Big tires eat fuel. 1700 at 70 is screaming bigger tires. Your 245's would do that but 265's wont be that high.

The tire coffee table I can deal with, just not sure about your taste in movies.

Do you know makes for NAPA? The o e I bought was from Orielly's. Standard Motor products. I have had good luck SMP stuff. Dont know anything about the NAPA ones.

And the scrap copper pile grows a little more.

Does anyone recognize this? It came in a bag with the intake horn and turbo gaskets. I dont ever remeber seeing one before.

it is the same as the FSM.

Have checked for any trouble codes? What rear gear are running? I am just over 20 mpg with a similar set up as you with 3:55 gears. When you tried to prime it did you open any injector lines up?

It is true that some threads will start very slow until someone responds even if they dont have an answer but it does seem to jump start things. @portlandareae28 Not sure what you would have to do to change manual window to power. I would like to thing it would just be swapping hardware from one to the other but dont know.

The one at the center of the 40 bolt holes facing front? It is there you can see the edge of it in picture. I have been my slow and deliberate self on most of this. But I am getting to things I have done already and hope it speeds up a bit just from familiarity. I want to hear it run for sure. But it is getting in and out of wifes saturn thats killing me. I had to go get the head in it and it felt like there 2 full size passengers riding with me. It compressed at each step. I have to admit it compressed more than I thought it would. The center bolts were finger loose at the beginning of step 2 but not at recheck, though they were looser. Could not tell much difference if any on the last 90* pull. I had to work for those. Thats what I was figuring and the man reason I did it that way. If I ever boost up the power from where I am now I will install studs I the single bolt replacement method. I know ARP.'s torque specs are higher than the 77 speced in the FSM, but I would like to know torque is on the bolts with that last 90* turn. I did not use the tap on the threads. Just was not comfortable with the fit. The bolt went freely into the holes prior to installing head. Then when put in after the head with my fingers covered in oil the still went with just my fingers. So I believe all is good. Thanks for all the input.

The donors have to be off a club cab also. The reg cab doors have round corners where the club has square corners.

I see them out this way a lot, especially on treated wood and manufactured wood. I see cancer warnings from Cali on almost everything nowadays. Bout sick of it.