dripley

By then you will shooting around in tube under ground.

I would think you just check and be sure the connections are not dirty or corroded and the dash mounts are secure. It would be nice to see a TSB on the issue to know what the problem might be.

Take the fours screws out that hold the cluster in and just unplug it by pulling straight out. You can then see the connectors. 2 will be in the dash and mate with the 2 in the cluster.

I have the boost bolt a d though I have never pulled it loose it is still in the way and will be relocated as in the picture sometime in the future.

I have a tee shaped tool that came with a GM cigarette light replacement. You stick it in on an angle and engage one of the locks then rock straight to engage the other one. That pushes them both back and the tee engages the metal cylinder and you pull it out. So you have to have something that will push the locks in and grab the metal cylinder to remove it. My tee wrench is at home or I would post a picture of it. Someone else posted a pic of one in another thread not lo g ago.

Just so you know, not all codes will trip the CEL. I would expect VP codes to trip it though. I would check it, light on or not.

Definitely check the codes. When my oe VP went I experienced a similar issue with low power and a boat load of blue smoke. This was at 75k. Did not know about trouble codes back the but it was the VP that was messing up. Ran fine few days and then bam out of the blue it would happen. Nothing wrong in the engine just the VP.

#1 you need a guel pressure gauge. You really need to keep tabs on it. You dont want to see less the 14 psi at WOT. It will keep your VP happy and hopefully live a long. Mine has 239k on it now with good fuel pressure and 2 stroke oil in the fuel. You could disconnect the grid heaters at the battery and see if that soves the stalling problem. If it stops the stalling some one with more electrical experience would have help with that. I suupose you could pull enough voltage away to cause the engine shut down. But again that is a bit over my head.

The up and down voltage is from the grid heaters running. The cut in and in a cycle can draw about 90amps each. How cool is it out your way? I beleieve they kick in at below 60* IIRC.

I am going for 800k on mine, wish me luck.

When I put a new one in I remove one cap, place the joint in the yoke and put the one cap back over the end sticking out of the yoke an press it in. Just did not see a reason to remove more than one at a time. Directional might have been a bad way to say it.

Not sure what you mean by this. I have 3 new joints for my drive shaft. I will press out the old ones and press in the new ones. Do you mean the joints are directional???

How common is a catastrophic short to ground and an under hod fire?

I believe it means the use of other than power steering fluid may damage pre 1998 vehicles. Unless i am missing something on the label.

Are you feeling air out of the vents with the selector in the off position? The fan switch has no off position only a low position. I believe the actuator for the inside outside air is located behind the glove box. Maybe you knocked the vacuum line off of it. Not hard to check. I do not know which position it goes to without vacuum. I drove my truck several summers with no AC. I would leave the selector on the dash/floor position just to help move some air but never noticed any wind noise from that even with the widows up while raining.

Set it on max AC and see if it stops. That should close off the outside air. I would think the off position would do the same thing.

Air Dog lift pump. I connected the power to the PDC terminal. Thought thats what you meant above with your FASS.

The OE ones, at least on my 02 anyway, came with NO nipple for greasing.

Moved my AD power there when I did the ground mod.

If one is going might not be long for the other either. I lost one of mine around a year and a half ago with about 400k on them. Replaced both to be safe. I used my ball joint press on both of them. Still took some persuading but no where near the trouble @Mopar1973Man had with his.

That is why I used new for the dash pad and instrument bezel, the oe ones were backed by the sun for years just like most second hand ones have probably been.

Mine were all still tight when I took them loose so I did not use any loctite on them. I will check here in the near future and see if any are working loose.

The silence is strange. Not that the old was loud but you coild hear it until the Cummins drowned it out.

Dont know how common it is but I just crossed 456k miles on mine and thats one spot that has not sprung a leak. My front gear case was leaking pushing oil back that way and maybe the front main seal. I did both not to long ago. If you still have the puke bottle on the front of motor that can contribute to oil blowing around.

My 4g is working fine. Still strange not hear it run. I would not know it runs if not for the FP gauge.