dripley

Welcome ro another North Cacalacian!!

Well, you could be in for a treat.May the gods of the wheel bearings be kind to you.

Yours have never been separated?

Seems to be a toss up anymore as to where anything we buy is made in the USA. Good luck with the install.

Never doubted that heat does rise just not a significant difference with the fluid churning is all.

I am a bit leary of of doing it myself on dry pavement with all the drive shaft joints wth 450k on them but let the roads get damp and mine will break loose when the turbo lights in most gears.

This is why a fuel pressure gauge is so important. It is the only way to know consistantly what your FP is.

DAP is where I believe @Mopar1973Man purchased his. Most likely where my next one will come from also. They run around a grand or a bit more for more warranty. They are good folks to deal with. We have seen a lot of folks pay a lot money for pumps from some sellers who get a large premium for the same pumps, upwards of 2 grand for the same pumps made by the same folks.

I dont see why not. I have all the wiring run at the windsheild towards the driver side then down into the backof the dash. Could not make my self drill a hole in the new dash pad.

Here us another option. Very readable. Much better than the picture shows. Got a good deal on a 3 gauge set with the pod from vulcan.

Dont feel bad, my head gasket replacement is taking my Quad money. I wish it was just a gauge taking mine.

No reason why you cant. They are independent from one another.

I would have to add that even though heat rises I dont think the temp is enough different from top to bottom with the gears stirring the fluid up.

And just how does a dingus drive? Are they a member of the dumb *** clan?

I towed with mine for 4 years with no gauges, completely stock. Then 7 years later my Banks tuner crapped out and I towed for 3 years after that with nothing but a fuel pressure gauge. This with RV 275s. No issues what so ever. Like @Dieselfuture says keep your rpm up and dont lug the engine you should be fine.

Careful now, thats what I have on mine right now. About 20 bucks apiece but they still keep planted and ride about like the originals. I was poor when I bought them but they worked.

I as a contractor have to use "builder grade" if thats all the owners budget will allow even knowing the next up is better way to do it. I struggle with that. Damn bean counters are everywhere.

Those say front drive shaft, you need the front axle shaft u joint. Your front drive shaft has a single u joint at the front diff and a double at the transfer case. The only ones I see labeled front axle shaft are at the bottom of their offerings. I only did a quick read so might have missed some more, the ones listed are pricey compared to the other u joints.

I could be a bad gauge or the crappy carter pump. Either way I would not tap the pump for more power until you can verify your fuel pressure.

How about that.

Welcome to the site. It is not so much the wrong place as it is getting more to see it. Wander over to the 2nd generation forums and stick in there and a lot more eyes will get on it. It sounds like might lie with the CTM but I am not one known for his electrical prowess. Again, welcome.

I would like to see my hours, where did you do this?

Welcome. It is a great place.

I have HF 3 ton. Not the one @04Mach1 mentions, but lifts the truck just fine and fits under the Saturn Sl2. Think I paid 90 bucks on sale.

Thats what wife looks like when in the truck and the tires touch ant thing but asphalt. Then goes to the her "What were you thinking mode!!!!!". Then we relax with friends to get over it.