dripley

I would not have bought either of those used. Just a short matter of time before they break again unless some history on them. Some of the other stuff might still be in a junk yard somewhere. Who knows. Going to be doing some junk yard searching myself pretty soon. I will keep an out if your thinking of going that way.

Its only money. I have done my dash and the instrument bezel from LMC truck. Spent $500 on those two parts alone.

The return into the fuel neck is above everything but maybe the cylinder head return line. Thats on level ground though. My thoughts any way. Both my return lines go to the basket. Both of them are above the fuel pick up by about 1/3rd tank, IIRC. On long road trips I run my tank down to 2 or 3 gallons with no cange in performance. So either the AD is removing the air as advertised or the return fuel splashing is not foaming that bad. Now this is in the in tank pump basket and not the stocker. Two differant animals.

You can have codes without the cel being lit.

I have a cd only unit in mine. I would like to get it rebuilt and the cd working again. Know someone?

It would be strange to go to a race, drag or whatever, and only hear an electric motors whine.

I got luck and found the wholemfront row on CL for 125 bucks. No holes in the upholstry but the drivers seat cushion has the left smashed a little.

Genos has a new and improved seat cushion. Thinking about one my self. They also have a cover pretty reasonable. I think it is a replacement but does not match the original. There are some original clothe ones out there, they are pricey in opinion at near $190.

Mine runs to the drivers bat-. That one is factory but it would appear I put a new ring terminal on it some time in the past. But it never ran to the TPS sensor. The green one I added. The other one is my AD ground.

Did see a pic for the wire you speak of.

That odd wire sounds lome someone added aground to the TPS. I have read about folks doing that trying cure similar problems a good while back. A lot of those issues were most likely from to much AC as was the noise isolator for the tranny. A simple test as @Mopar1973Man mentions above would help to diagnose it.

Thats where mine is weeping.

238k but whos counting.

Try parking it nose down and see if it stops.

I have run mine for over 7 years with both returns and the pick up in the basket with out issue. Always been curuious what the fuel temp is at VP when tank gets low. Just not curious enough to do anything about it.

East meets west. It was definitely a good meal with friends you never met. I cant believe something on the job to did not get between this happening. It was a good meeting with good folks. Thanks for the dinner Dan, you and Jennifer enjoy the rest of your trip and have a safe journey home. One day I will make out west myself.

I know the tape I pulled off of mine is not regular electrical tape. I used some super sticky electrical tape on mine and it does not like the under hood temps. I would have a mind to try that stuff you found. Sounds like it might be better suited for the job. Of course I do not know that personally and if they want 20 bucks a roll I might not be interested.

I seem to remember some one posting this up in another thread but that included a few other brand names that were all made in China. Cant remember were it is.

Will the solder melt on the tip of the iron? You only need about 400* to melt it, IIRC. A plumbers torch deep in the engine bay is not a good thing. The pencil torch puts out the same type of flame only much smaller. Still have to be careful where you point it.

You need to point the nose downhill and see what happens. Get the fuel tank higher than the engine. Mine is doing on and off in any position. Mostly been parking level where am at these days.

I dont know about the wattage you need but once you see the solder flow you will be surprised how easy it is to do. Get you some shrink wrap with adhesive like @Tractorman mention for the permanent joint you will do. Good insurance.

My 96 had a 5 speed behind a V10 I could swear that tranny used ATF. That was back in 99 and 00 not sure the ATF 4 was available then. Just dont remember.

I have a couple of pencil torches for soldering and no iron. I also use a plumbers torch on occasion but those are like using a flame thrower to light your cigarette. @Tractorman uses a bit finesse than I. Definitely not a bad thing.

Crimping is fine, same way and terminal I did mine with though mine might have been bigger. When you solder you should put the heat to the terminal and wires and when its hot enough just touch the solder to the wires and it will suck the solder into the wires and terminal on its own. Trust me there are plenty of voids for the solder to fill. You need to use some soldering flux also. I usually dip my wires into it then stick them in terminal then put a little more on terminal. The heat will spread the the flux too. If you not sure it is hot enough just remove the heat and touch the solder to the metal. If it is hot enough the solder will melt and suck up into the joint. If not apply some more heat. Remember your are heating the wire to melt the solder not heating the solder to melt it. I know there are some electronics folks cringing over my method but for these large joints it works fine. If I get down to the really small I am gonna need some help. my last solder job I had to use a Bic lighter, but it worked.

One other thing you want to do is to get rid of the splice that is wrapped around the two wires. I cut the the factory spice open and took wires apart the crimped and soldered the terminal on. The takes one more spice out of the wiring. The less splices the better. that particular splice is just crushed together inside that piece of insulation with some sort of sealant on it. It would appear your solder joint needs some attention as @Tractorman points out. You have a new terminal and the wire looks good. With flux and enough heat the solder should have flowed as mentioned. Yours is just stuck to the outside of the wire.