dripley

We got our first snow this year. Got about 7" on the ground and it is supposed to snow all day then freezing rain on Monday.

I just went thru this a few months back and mine was a wiring issue on the 5v signal wire. Same 237 code with low boost, maybe 50% power, and my Scan Gauge was reading 14.6 on the map. FYI the Scan gauge does not read the map right at all. But my mechanical gauge was showing a little boost and it would build a little as the rpm came up slowly no matter how far you depressed the throttle. The weird thing was that it was the 5v to all the other sensors and not the one that goes to the map sensor. Never any code for the other sensors just the MAP. I fixed the wire and mine has run fine since. I have heard here of some folks having trouble with oil pressure sensor going bad and causing issues. It does share a 5v signal wire with the MAP.

Thats pretty much how I guess I do mine. Just never give the blue lock downs any thought. I know I loosen them to get the lines loose and doing them last just seems natural.

Kind of figured it was after market, so the box of badges has none of those. It is mostly 3rd gen and newer.

I dont know whether I have done it that way. But I would think it would be the last thing to do in the process just to keep the lines loose enough to re connect. @pepsi71ocean just wondering what the reasoning is behind this?

Re reading this, my truck never had a Cummins C emblem on in it. And the they stick on. Even hood badge is stick on.

The factory engine return is the only thing that stays. It is a cleaner install just remove it all. I did keep the factory filter in mine also.

These are not metal so I dont know if any of them will work for you but there cheap.

Go with a full AD or Fass for an electric pump. Fuel Boss is a mechanical pump that several here have had good sucess with. There are 1 or 2 other mechanical out there also.

I did not find out about all of this fuel pressure stuff until about year after paying a Dodge dealer around $900 for the intank set up. It only cost about $700 for me to replace the whole system plus my time.

This is for an after market electfic lift pump. The oe pump had no relay and got its power thru the ECM. I slso see you have fuel boss so you would have no need for this anyway.

I believe I got mine off of amazon. 8' of black and red, ring trminals, and adhesive lined shrink wrap. Looking back I probably have less than $115 in the project and 2 or 3 hourrs work in it. I looked at theirs too. Very good looking product. The price, not the product turned me off.

I was going to suggest the same thing @Mopar1970man is referring to. Did mine out of 2/0 welding cable. Bought it off off of the internet. Came with the wire and the terminals. All I had to provide is heat and the solder. Very easy to do and a big money saver. I probably have less than 130 bucks in the materials. If you dont want to solder you can get a crimper and still save some cash and have a crimper for later. That depends on how cheap a crimper you want to buy.

If you are speaking of the wire from the drivers battery to the PDC, you can buy a premade wire that will work for 10 bucks maybe. I think I used a #4 from the parts store. Ring terminals and wires, all you have to do is bolt in place.

Did the horn work?

what pressure do you see when stick your foot in it? If its 3 cruising I bet its 0 at wide open throttle, WOT. I got the intank pump at 150k and inside of a year I was seeing the pressures you are seeing now. Not good. I would recommend a full Air dog or FASS or a mechanical pump with new fuel lines. The stock lines are too restrictive to maintain adequate supply to the VP. Anything that will keep your pressure up to at least 14 psi under any condition. The oe fuel system is inadequate and will cause premature VP failures. At $1100 a pop you dont want that to happen.

It most likely something very simple. I have something on mine causing the same slow starts and is intermittant. The nut on my #6 line at the head is showing some signs of a minor fuel leak, gathering some dust there. The next time it happens just let off the switch and let the lift pump run. If it busts right off after letting it run, you have narrowed the problem down. Just dont let that get the best of you. If its a minor air leak it will wait until you can fix it. Of course if it continually gets worse you might have to deal with it sooner rather than later.

Cold is very understandal. But i would not be very concerned if it is 10* out and and it takes a bit more to crank it. As long as it does not get alot worse I would ride with it till it warms up some. I guess I am not one to worry to bad about that kind of issue. The differnce between a 1/4 second start versus a 1.5 second start has never bothered me that bad.

Sounds like someone made a modifacation to yours.

In side the springs is how mine install. I have no way to mount them outside. It did not come from the factory like that. As far as any advantages to being outside, I would not know.

Welcome from Hickory NC. That fuel pressure is concerning. It most likely will read 0 at WOT. It would be best to get test gauge to double check the pressure. Are you running on the oe style pump and fuel lines?

My oe lasted 75k so I would think you did damn good on yours. Now i have more miles to get out mine than I thought.

I had a lot blue smoke when the oe VP was giving up. A new cured it. I am NOT saying your VP is bad by any means, more trouble shooting is in order.

I remember having to index the motor when I installed mine, just dont remember what I did to do that.

The first one. Did not know about the second option. I paid $25 when I bought mine and thought that was pricey. The doors seem a bit pricey too but if it makes it all work better, who knows.