dripley

You need to check for power at the pig tail across the 2 pins in the connector. Bump the starter and see if you have power at the connector. If you do your LP is bad, if not it is in the ECM. Hopefully the rebuilder will stand behind their warranty.

So if you bump the starter, no engine start, and leave the key on, the LP does not run for that 20 or so seconds? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

What fuel pressure are you seeing?

At key the onthe ECM will bump the lift pump for a small prime, a second or so. If you bump the starter, no engine start, the LP will run for 20 seconds or so. Is your WTS light coming on at key on?

I think @IBMobile and @JAG1 have taken a secret trip without cmm devices.

https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator?cid=_kenshoo_clickid_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiOO93uib3wIViYKzCh1XfQmYEAAYASAAEgI3dPD_Bw That is a drastic change in size. I am thinking they will rub somewhere. Lot of additional stress on the front end steering and considerable difference in final gear ratio. The rims will work fine but I personally would not buy them for the tires. The rims themselves are not hard to find or expensive by any means. They are only 2 years newer than your stockers.

Somebody got some splanin to do.

That seep you are seeing just might go away in few days. On a different note, you should like those RV's. I really enjoyed mine even after the banks chip crapped out. They were just a good bump in power and some mpg gain. They were even good towing the 5th wheel unless you want to go 70 mph up a 6% grade. 50 was always good for me.

If you did not open the fuel system anywhere that should not be reason for a non start. But it cannot hurt to open a couple of injector lines to see if you fuel to them.

Did you open the fuel system at all?

Is your lift pump the OE style pump on the block?

Did you open the fuel system at all? My proof reads need improvement.

There is the right one. We ought get @pepsi71ocean looking to update his article.

Aftermarket is your only choice these days. I went thru this about 9 years ago. Getting help was almost non existant at the time. My experience was painful at the least. The above article has some known good rebuilders. I would star with contacting the rebuilder and and letting them know about the problem. Does the truck start ok? Have you tried to start it? I just noticed that is the wrong article.

Yep. After my day I needed this.

Oh i have been there just like you. Electrical is not my strong point by any means. I just knew it had to be simple. Thats why I enjoyed being a giant for that brief moment. I had pause about that wire when I did the mod. I did replace it with a new one from the parts house. I do know that the ECM controls that prime of the lift pump. So I am thinking that is an ECM problem. Who rebuilt your ECM?

Good to hear. I knew it had to be simple with all power gone. To all my friends here, I AM AN ELECTRICAL GIANT!!!! Back off the soap box now, I need to check all the pennies in fuse box to be sure they have not burnt thru yet.

Do you have power to the PDC? Did you leave the short positive lead from the drivers battery to the PDC?

Did you tighten the injector at the head before tightening the injector hold down? That caused me some haeart ache with leaks the first time I did mine. 303k is a lot miles. I changed mine around 240k but never lost any mileage and the truck ran. I did put tuner at 100k so maybe a lost alittle performance but I could not tell with the added power I believe the blackness in the intake is from the EB. My oe injectors looked about like yours after 240k.

Never had glow plugs except on rental equipment. I believe they use old railroad truck springs in the switches. You need gorilla fingers to turn and hold them in the on position to heat up.

The ECM also controls the the short cycle of the LP at key on and the continued operation of the pump. The WTS light and the LPare 2 seperate functions of the ECM as I inderstand. We have seen many here with that issue over the years. What kind of lift pump do you have?

I should have clarified that I was speaking of a cold engine, 1st start of the day, and the temps matching.

No. Just turn the switch on without starting. The IAT and ECT should be the same or within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. Once started they drift away from each other fairly quick. It should just fire off at 40*. Mine does with the grids disconnected. My WTS comes on at key on but turns off right away. I probably should hook mine back up and see if they still work. When its 20 to 25 outside it still fires off pretty quick but it is a bit angry without the warm air.

Mine does not. But I have the single wire switch and not the sensor. I have heard of that going to 40 at key on mentioned here recently by someone.

You are are not spamming up any thing. Asking questions and sharing answers is what we are about here. These trucks can be very reliable, it just takes some effort. All depends on what you start with. I have had mine for 17 years and 457k miles. I have had it towed 3 times in all that time. Twice for a failed ECM, once for the oe and once for the pos of a rebuild. Iam on my 3rd VP. After getting the fuel system right and running 2 stroke oil the 3rd one has 240k miles on it. Hope it lasts a lot longer but she might blow tomorrow but she works fine for now. Learned all of this here.