dripley

I have a couple of pencil torches for soldering and no iron. I also use a plumbers torch on occasion but those are like using a flame thrower to light your cigarette. @Tractorman uses a bit finesse than I. Definitely not a bad thing.

Crimping is fine, same way and terminal I did mine with though mine might have been bigger. When you solder you should put the heat to the terminal and wires and when its hot enough just touch the solder to the wires and it will suck the solder into the wires and terminal on its own. Trust me there are plenty of voids for the solder to fill. You need to use some soldering flux also. I usually dip my wires into it then stick them in terminal then put a little more on terminal. The heat will spread the the flux too. If you not sure it is hot enough just remove the heat and touch the solder to the metal. If it is hot enough the solder will melt and suck up into the joint. If not apply some more heat. Remember your are heating the wire to melt the solder not heating the solder to melt it. I know there are some electronics folks cringing over my method but for these large joints it works fine. If I get down to the really small I am gonna need some help. my last solder job I had to use a Bic lighter, but it worked.

One other thing you want to do is to get rid of the splice that is wrapped around the two wires. I cut the the factory spice open and took wires apart the crimped and soldered the terminal on. The takes one more spice out of the wiring. The less splices the better. that particular splice is just crushed together inside that piece of insulation with some sort of sealant on it. It would appear your solder joint needs some attention as @Tractorman points out. You have a new terminal and the wire looks good. With flux and enough heat the solder should have flowed as mentioned. Yours is just stuck to the outside of the wire.

Genos, I think, carries a filter you can install over the cowl or you can remove the cowl and add some screen to help keep it out. I personally have not done either but other members here have. I am sure they will be along.

The small loom going down by the alt is your high pressure switch for the ac, it stays along with the field leads for the alt. That is all you will have left on the passanger side. I installed a new smaller loom for that.

Eliminate the one to drivers side and connect a new one to the passanger side. Everything will work just fine. The PCM regulates the voltage from the alternator. I used a piece of the wire removed ftom the drivers side for wire to the passanger side. The wire from drivers side positve to the PDC remains and powers the PDC.

It woud be good to drop it. If it were mine i would set it at 15psi as a low pressure at WOT and let the high pressure fall where ever it falls.

I greased that sleeve on mine.

I experiencing the same thing myself. My suspicion on mine is the AD quick disconnects might finally be causing me problems. I am not sure FASS uses them though. My problem is intermitant however. One time it fires off fine the next time a hard start. Might sit for 15 minutes and hard start or sit all night and bust right. I also have no vsible fuel leaks, but air is getting in there somewhere. I have not had time to dig into mine as of yet. If you have quick disconnects they might be suspect.

It can be either. Bad sensor/wiring. Who knowsfor sure. I have one of the newer 2nd gens at 17 years old.

I dont know. After 17 years it kind of looked crappy to me. Still works fine best I can tell but most tlikely needs a rebuild. 455k miles on it+many hours of idle. Still no play in any direction in it.

I would think some place in the vicinity of this?

I am pretty electrically challenged myself, but WT's ground mod is pretty simple and @Mopar1973Man explanation is in a little more laymans terms. I mostly understood it, but if you just open the harness and see it it is even simpler. What lift pump do you have and how is it wired? It should not have anything to do with the ground mod. The ECM should be controling the lift pump. Also how do you have it plumbed as far as the gauge is concerned?

My thermocouple is in the back half of the exhaust manifold outlet to the turbo.

Just curious about this. My truck never see 400-500* at idle, cold or warm. Mine maybe sees 300* on cold starup. The EB will bring it up in the 450 range. Idleing in summer time on warm engine i will only see 250 maybe 275.

Dont say that. Some beach Nothing personal.

At least the paint is not peeling like alot of gm products did 20 or so years ago.

My clear coat is gone on the horizontal surfaces. Didnt peel off just oxidized away. Very little waxing on my part.

60% off Napa's list price would make it a viable option, though I know nothing about the other filter.

What bushings do you speak of? It is all hydraulic other than the pedal bushings.

How much do you pay for a 2790? Just looked it up wow thats pricey too. They are about half that much at Vulcan. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm

That is still a funny story. Takes a good friend to come for more after that.

At $20k+ i dont think that will be an issue for me.

My son had an AR many years ago and I got to go to the range with him once and shoot it. We small baby food jars for targets. Even over the iron sites they hard to miss.

Never have. But at $108 it would be hard consider for noise reduction.