dripley

Not the chicken. No no no!!!

The switches have probably come apart. If so they can be glued back together. Had to do both of mine about a year and a half go. Not hard to do. I used some gray silicone others have used super glue. The lenses just flop around when the switches come apart.

It was on the vans too. Got to study one when the wife ran hers out of oil.

Yes. They are very on the inside, maybe 1/16" or a little more. They are a double walled. I have picture somewhere. I will post when I find it. That is the cylinder head end of #5 injector line minus the short piece that broke.

My connection to the battery is questionable on mine. What cooper you can see at the connector is very discolored. Not sure how far this comtinues down the wire or if it is corrode. The wire at the connector is not corroded but definitely discolored.

That was the question. When I did mine I loosened the bolts on both sides but only took the passanger side loose and hung it from the hand grip on the passanger door. So instaling the dash on the drivers side was the hardest part. Not much room in there on the drivers side that way. Did you did anything out of the ordinary to take boths sides loose other than unplug some wiring?

@Blueox01 It looks like you both sides of the dash loose, is that the case? I wonered how easy that might be able to do after repairing mine.

My in tank pump was the last dealer installed part I ever bought.

Oh Yeah!! Didnt know they stuff chikin in a biscuit did ya?

Just need brain food.

That is the ground we have been talking about. Not the ground for the solenoids just the heaters. Am I missing something?

I am with @dave110 on that one. I have the power coming into the grids on two posts on the firewall side and one ground off of the radiator side connected with one of the bolts on the in take horn. I see no other wires.

Richard probably has a spare one.

A mechanical would be the way test it for sure. And welcome. How is Richard doing?

Holy crap I am dealer batman!!!!. Actually I bought mine from BD diesel and thats how it came. Never noticed when I put it on it was just a carter pump. Still got it somewhere. It did work though.

Just never saw it or had to clean mine.

That how mine was set up. Booster pump on an oil pressure switch. In tank on the ECM.

One side lays on the aluminum but the other side is in direct contact with the bolt head. No dissimilar material there. So I dont think it matters unless the corrosion wraps around maybe. I have never seen that on mine.. I read a good ground there off of the bolt head.

That bolt threads into the cylinder head which is cast iron, thats where ground comes from. I ran my AD ground off of one of longer bolts on the horn for 7 years with no issue. There are gaskets between the intake horn, heater, and the intake plenum that would prevent a good ground from the intake horn alone. Prior to doing WT's ground mod I read .035 ac volts off the alternator. After doing the mod I am .01 ac volts. I understand principle of it some what but the results I think speak for themselves. Beware, the chicken man is talking electric again.

LMC truck has that gasket for 50 bucks. I buought one but have not installed it yet but it appears to be very good quality. Now if it fits I will be good. My drivers side has taken a good pounding over the years. Not sure the price is any better or worse than any where else but I saved on shipping cost by adding it to my order from them a while back.

I am short tripping for now. 175 miles on Mondays and Fridays with short trips in between. When my jobs to far to drive home I see alot short tripping. That has not been the case for the past 3 years though.

For the electrically challenged, set meter to ohm then probe the + and the - terminals of each heater??? Correct?

Me I run 2 Walmart Everstarts for now. I am not that brand loyal on batteries. About 5 good years is good for me. Maybe a little more. 10 would be nice but never done it personally.

I disconnected mine 2 years ago when i noticed one of the insulator caps on the grids was partially melted. All the rest of the wiring looks fine from the outside but I never investgated it any deeper. Might just replace it and see what happens. Rock auto has a SMP for 110 bucks and an Airtex Wells for 210 bucks. Whats different about the 2 I dont know.

I bought a 165II about 8 years ago. The 1st pump lasted 4 years as did the 2nd. I did expect both to last much longer. The replacement was 165 4g. This one better last a good while or I might reconsider replacing it again. Back when the in tank it starting in about year. Had no fuel pressure gauge then nor knew much about fuel pressure. But Imstarted havinf issues with the fuel and took it to a shop. The only they could find was low pressure, 5 at idle and pretty much 0 at wot. I installed a booster pump on the frame rail and ran that combination for a few years and the issues went away. I allways had that nagging feeling of what would happen if the in tank pump just quit. It may have but everything ran right. As I have stated before, ignorance is bliss.