dripley

Bet they wish they had had a cliff that tall between them and the ocean.

They will start right back up but I dont believe the lift pump will provide priming bump or the 20 second or so run of the full pump with out waiting. But they will start right back up and the lift pump will run as it should. I am pulling the delay out of my memory from a good while back. I will try anything before condeming an ECM. I just tried it on mine and it was hit and miss. Out of 6 tries key off and then right back on. Twice I got the priming bump and 4 times not. I will let ya'll be the judge on that test. As far as doubting Dripley, knock yourself out. I have made my fair share of mistakes. No offense taken.

Maybe a strap wrench around the balancer to reak them loose then remove them. I dont remember mine being difficult to get out or in and torqued. You could probably break them loose with an impact gun.

Definitely not high pressure.

Dont even have to open the door, I just leave the window down.

That appears to be a well qualified mechanic you have there.

I got mine 6 or 7 years ago while in Iowa working. I believe off of ebay but dont remember for sure. They were inexpensive and still holding up well. I actually dont use mine to get in and out but others have to. I do stand on them occasionally and they hold me up fine at 215#.

How about the blower motor, sometimes they go hand in hand.

There you go. You almost cant see them.

Same as DF here but mine are black and cheap.

Pull the fuel pump relay and watch the gauge. The engine wont start with the relay pulled. The WOT test had to be done under load. Free reving in the drive way wont work. You have a 4psi drop doing that, you might be way lower 10 psi under load, hard to say. When you tried to re start after it died, did you just turn the key off and right back on? The reason I ask is the ECM needs about 10 or 15 seconds from key off to completly shut down IIRC. We have discussed that on here a good while back and my memory is bit fuzzy on that. If I remember to I check mine out tomorrow.

I have not, but still have a Comp so therd us no need. If I ever swap to a quad I just might.

Maybe @Dynamic can help. He seems to be busy lately but he would know. Me, I know nothing of the auto tranny.

I had a Banks in mine 2 Banks gauges, boost and egt. When the banks went out, I had to do with out ahy gauges. You are better off with the gauges just in case. At least thats my opinion.

Is the wait to start light coming on at key on or is it delayed? If the WTS light is not coming on at key on then the ECM is NOT booting properly. If this condition exist, on a warm day, it is only breifly on at key on. These trucks will start with the WTS light on even in cold weather. The WTS stays on in the cold until the grid heaters heat up. It is best to wait until the light turns off, but the engine will turn over and most likely start with the light on, depending on the temp and condition of the engine. I jumped in mine when it was 6 months old on a ten below 0 morning. Put in the key and not thinking started the engine. It fired right off but I have never heard that much noise under a hood in my life. Mine will still start to this day with the WTS on. Bottom line is if the WTS is delayed in coming on it will not start until it does. And that is an ECM problem.

You have to remove the front gear cover. That requires removing several items off the front of the motor and the radiator if you want more room. None of it is difficult. Some folks say a few hours, me it is at least an all day job. I dont rush myself.

I believe that would condem the VP Another nail in the coffin. Just remeber it takes something over 4000 psi to pop the injector, depending on there condition.

Did you install the FASS or was it on the truck when you bought it?

When you get up and running I would ditch all of these adddatives. They dry fuel out worse than it already is. Your VP will thank you. The only lube the VP gets is from the fuel so some 2 stroke in there will help it lead a longer life. Here is some info.

Pretty old fence you have there.

You did a nice job. Just cant understand why you would want to throw away 2 feet of perfectly good bed? Welcome also. Good to have you here.

You are correct. Sometimes i type to fast.

Now I see. It just plugs into the ECM pig tail. That means it is getting its 12v thru the ECM. it is been shown over the years that puts undue stress on the ECM. The full AD and FASS systems use a relay and an indepedant 12v supply to take the load off of the ECM. The stock pig tail is used only for trigger to engage the relay. Much better for the ECM. If the pump is failing it would putting more stress on the ECM. All the more reason the find out what your fue pressure is.

Do you have a lift pump relay?

I did not know an airtex came ready to plug into the stock pig tail. Or did you make something to do that with? Is set up thru a relay or is the pig tail the power source for the pump? The reason I ask is that getting that 12v off of the ECM is best for the life of the ECM. The full AD and FASS system use a relay and the ECM pig tail just provides a trigger for the relay and you get 12v power from elsewhere, battery, alternator or have you. The ddrp is a step but a full Fass or AD or mechanical pump would be the best. That part is up to you. FYI on the fuel relay, it is for the vp and not the lift pump. That is another draw back to the stock pigtail for the lift pump. No fuse, nothing to protect the ECM. 12.6 volts in batteries should start the engine just fine. Sun came out here about 2pm and made it freaking miserable. Storms seems to be tracking North for now and not as much North East. Might get spared a little. I would have to agree that this does sound fuel related.