dripley

Are you using a scanner to check the codes? Do you know what your fuel pressure is, both idle and wot?

Sorry to hear about the beer.

I need to add some thing to what I told about removing the filter canister. My fuel system has flexible 1/2" lines and will lay over out of the way. I dont know what fuel pump you are using nor how it is plumbed. That will dictate what you have to do the move canister out of the way.

You too Mr. McQueen.

The kidding is all taken in stride around here. I get to dish out my fair share wnen the opportunity arises.

Very funny. Most folks dont put the d and ripley together like. I noticed it when I got that name at AOL. Now we will see how crap I can from this nick name. I appreciate the compliment and the laugh. Maybe I should change my to dripless???

If the tee is in the stock position you need to remove the filter canister, 2 bolts and let lay towards the fender well, and that is the way you get too it. Not fun by any means but the only access you have. That is how I redid mine. The return on the back of the head is even more fun. The only way to see it is with mirror. It has 2 sealing washers that are most likely shot also. Matter of fact that could the leak. The fuel will just run down the line over the tee to lowest spot. Both the tee and/or the sealing washers leaking are the cause of the hard starts. When air gets in the return lines it lets the fuel run out of the high pressure lines. Next time you try and start it bump the starter, no engine start, and the lift pump should run for 20 or so seconds. That will help get some back up to the VP. Might have to do it more than once depending on how bad its leaking.

Well that is pretty much crap all the way around there. I wish him luck on getting some help paying for the repairs.

I assume you mean the black line that comes in from the upper center of picture and has a drop fuel on it. That is definitely after market. I am not sure what it is connected to. I have an after market fuel system but the return lines are still in stock configuration. Seems to be some more of it looped around and hanging by zip ties. Is that fuel line also? Supply line maybe? Best I can tell you is follow line and see what all it is attached to. The return has a line off of the VP and one line off the back of the head joined a tee as mentioned above. That tee has grommets that do wear and start leaking. But not knowing what is that was done is going to make advice a bit difficult. Seems to be a lot lines just run helter skelter in there.

I would replace just it because I was in there plus the ac system is open. The evaporators are not expensive.

If fuel is leaking out some where, air is getting in and that will cause your hard starts. No amount of pedal pushing will help on a 24v. The pedal is only connected to the TPS sensor. There is the return fuel line from the VP and the back of the head that join at the back of the engine in a tee and somewhat behind the fuel filter. It is pain to get to but you dont have to cut any holes to get to it. Any way you ca get picture of the line you speak of? What year truck do you have?

Welcome. Got you matched in the miles but not the years.

I love my 16's. I do like the 4th gen not so much for the size as the look. 16's are a bit cheaper than 17's and bigger also. I also had trouble finding 16's with the right offset for the Dodge.

Bought mine new, have mostly kept it out of the snow but not the sun. 450k later and it looks its age. But it runs like a teenager.

Very nice truck. Been a while since mine looked like that.

You wont get any better advise here if you got it from Bayes on facebook.

There is alot of truth in what you say. If its new and breaks let the dealer worry about. But if it is out of warranty it is yours to deal with. Parts and especially diagnostics are expensive. 2nd gen or 4th gen i dont think it makes a difference other than the 4th being for mechanical issues, could be fewer. If it is electronic thats where diagnostics could get expensive. I just crossed 454k on mine and plan to keep it for now. Excluding apperance i will drop 4 or 5 grand in the next year or so on it to get it back right for the long haul with 3 grand of that on a tranny rebuild. The other stuff i can handle, new head gasket for one. As long as the cylinders look good when I pull the head, I am willing to go that route even if I have to spend a little more. This is a personal choice for me as it will be for you.

I agree with @Mopar1973Man on the above. At $450 it is just under core charge on a replacment. Pretty sure on that but you would have to check some sellers to confirm that. Could be worth a shot if I am right on the core charge. Even if it faisyou could recoup your money usig for a core. The lift might be different. It that is a stock pump the price is about normal. Again shop some prices to compare. The stock lift pumps aint that great. As Mike says fuel pressure is big killer of the VP.

I kept a couple old ones just in case. Used one them a while and it worked fine.

How is beyond my expertise. Here is a list of rebuilders members have had good results with. A lot of folks claim they can do it but it seems they cannot. I had my bad experience years ago and it was pleasent nor cheap. New ones are hard to find but in the $2500 range from what I have read. The stray AC voltage I mentioned can make an auto trans do funny things. It ususally manifests itself in gear hunting. Usually bouncing in and out of OD but I have read of other issues. The AC test is very simple. You need a volt meter that can read mili volts. Mine does it automatically and some have a switch to choose mili volts. With the right meter place the neg on your battery ground and the pos on the alternator charge stud and see what it says. .05 or above is bad. The lower the better. I tried again to find the article and was not succesful. And I see while typing the master article has come to the rescue

The delayed WTS light is an ECM issue and most likely needs a rebuild. The trans stuff i am not up on. But your alternator could be putting out to much AC noise causing some this. There is an article about this that I cant seem to put fingers on. I am sure some more knowlegable will be along shortly to help.

Its all good. I keep remebering the days his dad and mine for that matter were dumb as rocks and we were so much smarter. So I can see my son now scratchin his head wondering whether to bury it or not. When pop died me and my brother were to carry his cremanes out to the courtyard of the church. I fumbled the container a little and pop started laughing at me just like he was sitting in the church. Heard that laugh all the way out the door. I like think I can leave him with one last memory as good as that is for me. But I do plan on making him wait a good while for it.

That goes to show what I know.

My boy is going to have a hard time with that. It will be running good when that day comes. I going to make sure f that just out of spite. He will have a big decision on that day. Of course my vote want count for squat then. It is going to be a hard day for him. I know it was when I buried Pop, my dad.