dripley

Ok. I will start eating me spinach.

I dont even notice mine anymore. Just part of the Cummins humming down the highway. Of course my hearing aint what it used to be.

Still something I like about this place is differing opinions with out having to fire off 4 30 round clips of Ak ammo to make a point. I can see both sides here. Though I do remember a member posting a picture of some crud sitting in the bottom of a new one gallon jug of oil. I have been looking ever since and not seen that personally. Clack clack, the AK racks.

So Mikey might be in line for another HG job. Sounds bad for him. I think Rosalee might forgive him.

The BHAF is better fltration and air flow than the stock air box . I would have give you mine if I would have known you wanted to go back. The turbo noise is just normal and yes the BHAF will magnify it but I doubt if anyone outside the truck would even notice. Not trying to beat you up but 2nd gens are 2nd gens, some noise comes with the truck.

The tach needle bouncing is very common at idle. Mine always has for the most part. But smooth there after. The ground wire mod should help. It decreased mine by 65%.

I used to but stopped a vew years back. The wifes Saturn has a horizontal filter so ther is no way fill it. I have never experienced any harm from it that I know off. I also have not noticed any difference by not filling it either. The engine builds pressure just as quick after a change as it did with a full filter. I am also not disagreeing with what @Mopar1973Man is either.

Wlecome to the farm. Picture are always nice, as time allows.

Welcome. Cant think of many 17+ year old vehicles that dont require a little time, money and love to keep them happy. This is a great place to find answers to the problems you might encounter.

My 265's were an option. Paid a few extra bucks for them. My door sticker lists 245's. Mine is an SLT.

The key does not show everything on 99. A code scanner is your best bet.

Look at the picture you quoted Mike about phone pedastal. That truck has 4 doors with exterior handles, full size doors. Thats the one they are talking.

My 96 had 245's on it and they definitely looked tiny for them to be 1" shorter. Thats why I wanted the 265 on the 02

Pretty much re did mine with foam from Lowes or HD. Still seems to be working fine.

I chased a leak on mine for a while and it turned out to be the compressor. Hard to look in there and see anything. Mine was oe compressor though.

I used some foam tape and then wrapped it with foil hvac tape.

Go get em Rube.

Dont think stock injectors are not laggy. My truck new was laggy all stock. Your gearing will help though. The Banks tuner and RV's was the best I have had mine. Not as much power as the Comp but clean burning, the lag was bettter, and temps were better controlled. The RV's were good by themselves after the tuner fried. Much better that the stock ones. I cant imagine going back to stock.

The Colorado air does have a few extra molecules in it of late.

Been dark here since you started the thread. So my answer would beeeeeeeeee, ahhhhhhh no. I will take a look tomorrow sometime.

Do I have to stand on my head and look in a mirror to tune with it? That might be a drawback.

My guess is you truck is not going to fall a part at the moment. So take breath and be calm.

You can see it in your photo. It is just left of the gas pedal. The shaft thru the fire wall is moist and shows some sign of leakage. I did not notice mine until a drip on the floor mat. I got a kit from Pirate 4X4 for $40 I think. I cant help but think there is a better source since I only used about 15% of the kit. It is a generic kit. You have time so dont get to bent outta shape over it. Who knows you might find a better source for the seals needed.

You can take the master cylinder loose from the hydro boost and never open it. It is not going to look that way but you can, I did. There is a seal on the shaft that goes into the cab and the brake pedal. The only way to replace it is to remove the shaft from the master cylinder. Thats the rub. It is crimped on. @Haggar has posted a way to remove it, but I did not. I resealed the case and replaced the power piston bore seal. So far the shaft into the cab has not leaked any more. More luck than skill on that. I cant seem to find the article on resealing it. Hopefully someone can help with that. And also if your brakes are working fine I dont think they are getting ready to fail by any means. It is something to be mindful of though.

I dont know that there is an adjustment either. Looking at your photos there does NOT appear to be one at the pedal and I thought maybe there is one on the bellcrank. Split sinkers over the cable at the pedal would do it and just take up the space. I just resealed my hydro boost and it was not that bad. Mine first showed it self with some drips on the floor mat which yours might be getting ready to. The seal between the halves let go and it stopped leaking on the floor mat. Resealed it and no more leaking on the floor mat. I did NOT replace the seal on the shaft due to how it is assembled so time will tell whether I did enough. Not a tough job by any means excluding the seal on the shaft.