dripley

The ground wire splice I spoke of are buried in the engine wiring harness. It is not like a ground to the body or such.

That job didn't match your credo for sure, "Overpaid and Underworked".

At first I thought it had to grease. That manhole is down stream of the interceptor. But a piece #3 rebar proved me wrong. Definitely no grease, just poop and tp plus various other none flushable paper products. Even found a stolen credit card. Turns out after rodding and hosing it all to break it up I found about 6" of recycled concrete in the bottom of the manhole fouling things up. Never knew poop could clump up into a 20 pound s**t brick.

I struggled with this code and the engine running greatly defuled. While observing my scan gauge you could see and feel when signal dropped out. I am 99% sure mine is in the wiring harness near the ECM. I was able to grab the harness, move it some and squeezed it. The problem went away. Also had a surging issue that I dealt with in same manner. That issue started again 3 days ago. Performed the same grabbing of the harness and it quit. There is a ground splice in that location for most of the sensors and I believe that is my issue. You might give that a try and see if the code stays away after clearing it

I think the pumps do but they dont take the filters into consideration. Even the Donaldson filters wont flow the fuel the pumps are supposed to push. @AH64ID is a better person to explain that. I have to admit I have never free flowed mine to see. I do know that my VP filled a 5 gallon in less than 30 minutes with one injector line diverted to it.

Technicalities, always with the technicalities. Who knows you might be the only 2nd gen with the issue. Maybe we need to tear your motor down and see.

Reversing connecting rods would have been a lot more fun. Might have got beer while I was doing it too. Knew you had to have one that. BAWK!!!!!!!!!!!

Got off about 4:30, got back to the room and figured I would take a nap then get some dinner. Just kicked my feet up for the nap and get a call from CFA that the sewer line is stopped up. Get a plumber there and we open the manhole and are greeted with this.

Where have I heard that before?

Appreciate the info. After 442k if mine are backwards I don't want to know.

If you are going to keep it stock a 100 or 150 is more than enough. I have the AD II 165 on mine. At the time it was the only one that came with a kit to remove the in tank pump that Dodge blesses me with. Way over kill for my truck but I had room to grow if I wanted. Plus it was not that much more than a 150. That was about 200k ago and I did loose the pump about 80k ago and they replaced it no questions asked. Other than that I have had no other problems.

You will have to pardon ignorance but what problems does it cause to have the connecting rods and pistons backward aside from the fact it just aint right?

He did say he had one. Didn't ask what it was though.

Well you can always pinch the line off as described above.

You sure could. Not sure how much a stock engine is capable of myself.

I have heard that about them. Thinking he could adjust it to see if the pressure went up.

Aren't the boost elbows adjustable, ie have an adjustment screw in them? I have one at home that came with my Comp. Never needed with the Banks waste gate actuator.

There is nothing wrong with that turbo charger if it is as you describe. And like @Me78569 says did you disconnect the Quad to be sure it is not the problem ? You are being deprive of fuel somewhere some how. Throwing an expensive part at the truck hoping it will solve a problem is not the way to go. Diagnose and then spend.

Finally got some dry weather. passenger side upper control arm, 19 1/8 at the axle and 21 3/8 at the rear.

That's a good answer. Appears I will be taking the same course of action.

Just using the Denso part number NAPA what's over $300 for theirs. Same part # at RA $125. Do you remember which one you used?

Good looking wood work sir. I am jealous. I would love doing that for a living. I am a glorified baby sitter. It is a good and rewarding job but I sure would like to have to quit worrying about them and just take on myself for a change.

I have 442k on my oe pump and keep waiting for it to explode. It is a touch weak and shows that at idle every so often. Probably ought to just replace. I believe I got my moneys worth out of it.

No offense meant either. Took a lot of thinking for me to start cutting on the truck, but it turned out good. Good luck with your thoughts.

Well I have been looking since I started this thread and have come to the conclusion that there is no straight answers to what you will get when ordering a new. I went to Denso and their recommended suppliers cover a wide price range. Rock Auto $125 to AA and AZ at $300+ for the same part #. Sanden with similar results. Makes me wonder where the Mopar places are getting theirs at $500 or so. Even the drier on RA is over a $110. So I am going to close my eyes and roll the dice.