dripley

I have 442k on my oe pump and keep waiting for it to explode. It is a touch weak and shows that at idle every so often. Probably ought to just replace. I believe I got my moneys worth out of it.

No offense meant either. Took a lot of thinking for me to start cutting on the truck, but it turned out good. Good luck with your thoughts.

Well I have been looking since I started this thread and have come to the conclusion that there is no straight answers to what you will get when ordering a new. I went to Denso and their recommended suppliers cover a wide price range. Rock Auto $125 to AA and AZ at $300+ for the same part #. Sanden with similar results. Makes me wonder where the Mopar places are getting theirs at $500 or so. Even the drier on RA is over a $110. So I am going to close my eyes and roll the dice.

wonder who makes for Borgeson?????

I did the mod after replacing all of my stock cables. 2/0 welding cable for them all about 10 or so months ago. Did not see any drop after that until the mod. Still surprised at the drop I saw after the mod. Not trying to beat anyone up but I, the president of the electrically challenged club, was able to do this without much trouble. I started, after reading @W-T post, at the alternator and just worked my way back. Did some re reading and took my time. Fairly easy, all the steps are there.

Went back and reread, missed the before and after. Mine is an AZ alt also. Put it on about 3.5 years ago when the bearings started failing in the previous one.

My engine has a port below and a little left of the ECM near the bottom of the block. I had an oil pressure switch there a long time ago to turn on my booster fuel pump. Of course i used for pressure and not temp but dont have clue as to whether it could be used for a temp sensor.

I tested mine at the alt and the batteries before and after and it dropped from .035 before to .010 after. I was not expecting that. I think your diodes are already in tough shape it wont make that big a difference. I have also had my grid heaters disconnected for the past 2.5 years. Might have helped. So how about anyone else that does this, check you before and after ac voltage to compare.

That is pretty normal for me. It will go up in colder weather. The older the temp the higher the charge. Did you by any chance check your ac voltage before and after the mod?

Good to hear. How pricey was the Borgeson?

I did not. I already had most of what I needed on hand. The only things I did not have was 5' of #4 wire to tie the battery grounds together with ring terminals and clamps to clamp it to the radiator. I just attached them to the bolts that hold the B+ cable. You will also need some more clamps to replace the ones on the block that will be to large after removing the charge wire to the PDC or not, your preference. I replaced the loom with smaller loom, you would not have to.They have them at Lowes cheaper than the parts store but then again I dont have to drive 40 miles to get there. Some of the parts depend on what you have under the hood. I have military style terminal ends with 3/8 bolts, the stock ends have 5/16 bolts. If you look over the process and then compare to what you have the list should be reasonably easy to do, though I did have to do some . I did reuse some of the wire I removed. Stripped it back and it was as shiny as it was new. Check the insulation for any damage also.

I agree on the turbo, it sounds like functioning fine. I think I would try disconnecting your adrenaline just to be sure it has no problem. Just disconnect the wiring and return it to stock and see what happens. I did that with my Comp when I was having trouble. Only took 30 minutes and eliminated that as problem. How is your air filter? Mine got clogged up with vented front diff oil a good many years ago and slowly robbed me some power and boost.

Pictures would be nice if you have any.

Did you get a picture this time?

Did all this start out of the blue or right after one of the mods you have done, tuner included?

The fuel pressure will drop on an electrical pump while driving just the nature of the pump. I have an AD II on mine. It idles around 20 psi and drops to about 16 psi under full throttle. What kind of lift do you have? Stock Carter on the block? This fuel pressure is not the low fuel I am speaking of. The lift pump pressure just provides fuel to VP44 injection pump. It should stay in the 15 to 20 psi range all the time. This will insure a god life for the VP. My defueling issue was with the VP and the fuel it was providing to the engine. 2 separate issues. Which Quad tuner do you have?

The valve train in a gas or diesel engine both operate in the same manner. It is possible to loose some pressure with worn valves and piston rings but that is a wear issue and not a design issue. Since your not loosing boost pressure on your test, boost does not sound like your issue. If it cranks and idles fine but you have no boost or power this could be fuel related. Low fuel=Low power=low boost. Though all of this with no DTC's of any kind leaves to a lot guessing. I just went thru something similar with mine but had a code to work with and have a scan gauge II on the truck so I could see what was happening while driving. On mine the MAP sensor signal to the ECM was dropping out causing a defueling of the engine. I could accelerate but with greatly diminished power and boost. My issue is in the wiring and not MAP sensor. Are able to monitor engine functions with the Adrenaline while driving?

If an intake valve is open the air should trap in the cylinder. The only way to get to an open exhaust valve is if an intake valve is open which would be bigger problem. Now that's is on a stock engine in pristine shape. Mines has 442k on it and probably seeps some where but for the sake of a boost leak test should not matter.

You say no boost no power. You don't have boost leaks and the turbo is fine. Did this start recently? Like after the tuner install some other mod? What's your fuel pressure?

How are you checking for DTC's?

With the turbo on the truck I assume?

Welcome to the forum.

What I described is what I do for a boost leak test. What are you doing for a boost leak test?

Get a squirt bottle and put some soapy water in and spray all the joints in the plumbing, the turbo, intake cover, grid heaters anything the air pass thru.

Boost will pass thru a running engine. But engine off it will not, gas or diesel. How are you doing the boost leak test?