dripley

I have a set $22 each Monroe's on mine for 3 years or more. Don't remember what style, but they have held up a lot than I ever thought they would. They still keep me planted on the road. @KATOOM, have those 9000's remained easily adjustable thru their life?

Just drove a rental F150 with that feature. It restarted every time I took my foot off the brake pedal. It also 10 speed auto in it. Makes me wonder what kind of starter will hold up to that much use.

Back 30 years ago I worked forms contractor out of Dallas Tx. He flew me and the wife down for a Christmas party and we got a rental car. The vehicles we owned then were still old enough to have dimmer switch in the floor board and all the switches on the dash. It started raining and imhad pull off the highway and it took me 15 minutes just fugure where the wiper switch was. Looked every where but the turn signal arm. Learned a lot that day.

It was supposed to be CRS. I believe both can be interchanged though. Bad enough to have it but this damn tablet is smarter than me and keeps changing what I type.

I just have not had any problems with what came with it. Might replace one day but not now. Which AD do you have? Could have been different from model to model. Don't know.

When my pump went it only took an hour to replace it. But I did have to wait on it to get there, plus pay over night shipping.

No. Some look like the one in the FASS photo above and some are different and require a release tool to take apart. About a 50 50 mix. Not sure why AD did not use all the same style.

That they do and I used them on my install 8 years ago and to date no issues with them. They all fit as they should have.

Do I have mixed up with someone else. I have CRD syndrome also.

A while back I was experiencing some throttle surging for quite a while. Anywhere from 0 to 12% or so. Even got some APPS codes to go with it. Swapped in a new APPS and it did NOT solve the problem. Mine is working ok now though a few days ago it came back. I got it to stop by grabbing the wiring harness just outside the ECM and moved it what i could and squeezed as hard as I could and it stopped. The first time I did it and made it stop,with the surging described above, the problem renewed it self in the MAP sensor. Manipulating the harness stopped that also, just as it stopped the surging a few days ago. There is 5v sensor reference splice for the MAP and oil pressure sensor right in that area and just a little further away is a ground splice for most of the sensors. I cant help but believe that one of these is the source of my problem and maybe yours. I am not electronically versed enough to confirm that however. Mine on cruise would surge however. Hope that makes some sense. I feel @KATOOM disease coming on. Make sense to me but sure for anyone else.

I am a bit surprised they would tell anyone to wire a fuel pump to key on hot knowing what might happen in a wreck. I know alot of folks have done it but would not think a company would recommend it. Seems quite risky for them.

You are not 4wd are you?

Are you a manual transmission? Your 01 should have fly by wire cruise on a manual trans. When you set it the APPS is no longer in control. I believe the ECM is.

Not sure what glitch you saw on the Carter pump. I do know that using the ECM for a trigger draws very little off of the ECM compared to the stock pump and you would be better served to use it for the trigger for your pump. If the fuse you are using is not a key on hot fuse your pump will not pump any fuel, not sure that the ignition fuse you are speaking of is a key on hot. And if it is if you have a wreck and a rupture in the fuel system it will just keeping pumping fuel until you turn the key of. Hard starting the day after is a loss of prime somewhere in the fuel system.

I would associate the loud bang or metal clunk is mechanical and not associated the engine running rough unless something in the engine broke. I experienced that a couple years ago. Sounded like someone hit the front of the truck with a 5 pound hammer as hard as they could. Truck ran fine before and after. I rebuilt the front brakes about 4 months later and found the front u joint was gone. Only made that noise that one time. Not sure what would cause the engine to run bad in that circumstance though. I did loose my ECM 8 or so years ago, No loud noise just ran a little weird one day and the 2 days later you could not drive it. Still ran but undriveable. I have of late had some surging issues, MAP issues, and other slight running issues. I do believe these are wiring issues possibly with splices in the engine wiring harness. I am about as electronically challenged as they come so I do not know this for sure, but believe this is causing many folks weird issues.

I experience the same when mine went out back in 09. After returning the first one that was and getting the second back in 6 weeks, I was so happy to drive my truck out of the garage it had been in for near 3 months that I did not care that the cruise did not work. All of that was for naught when the second died 12 months later. But I did end up with a new Cummins ECM after that and again experience euphoria with a working truck.

That part I could not answer. I can measure the clearance on mine and see what it is. I have been suspects mine are getting tired. When I go over some speed bumps I can feel the rubber hitting the stop. Not hard but definitely bouncing off of each other. Still seems to sit good just looking at it but maybe weaker.

Another stupid question. When you turn the switch on what does your EGT gauge read? My tranny temp gauge is out of whack and sometimes reads 150+ * on a cold tranny. Cruising down the road empty it will show 210*. Yet I can still put my hand on the tranny. Just a thought.

What we are trying to say is the waste gate opening pressure will determine how high your boost can go, within reason of course. The stock waste gate opens around 20 psi. The boost elbow is supposed to bleed some of that pressure off of the waste gate allowing the waste gate to open later after pressure builds higher in the charger. I have an aftermarket waste gate on mine that opens at near 35 psi, give or take a couple pounds. So I am able to build more boost due to the higher opening pressure. Same thing the boost elbow should do if it is working right.

I have agree with Me on this. You have another issue causing the high temps or temp readings.

They are nicely priced also compared to many others. Just remember if you get a leak free system and the waste gate opens at say 25 psi it will get no higher than that.

Seems to me i have seen rubber spring inserts somewhere a good while back. I googled "coil spring inserts" and a bunch of things came up. To many to link.

Tom, remind me not go on vacation with you.

Nice to see that one @IBMobile. I have yet to get to it. As with the others it looks quite simple. You reckon they let @W-T retire or just chained him to his desk? I know they tried to chain me when I went to my 20th anniversary party a couple months ago. Appreciate the photos.

I have ordered a lot parts from Rock Auto. So far all has been well dealing with them. Parts geek is most likely the same. They are a mail order place also. I have seen bad revues from on most any of them. The bad ones seem to be more popular. I have ordered both the drier and the line with the orifice tube in it from RA and am about in need of doing it again. Not because they failed but because i am going to have to open the system up again. I would not be more afraid of one or the other.