dripley

First welcome to forum. We will do our best to help you. If could go back to your profile and fill out your signature with your truck info with any mods you know of.it would help. Have you checked for trouble codes? If not you need to. That will give you and us a starting point. Most auto parts places can do that for you and some will loan you one for a refundable deposit. A boost leak test should not pass thru to the engine. It has to hold pressure for you to find the leaks. In a "perfect" world it should hold around 20 psi on stock truck. You also say you have replaced the VP44 and the injection pump. They are one in the same. I assume you meant the VP and the lift pump.

Must not like the yellow wire.

If it will quit raining up here I will re measure mine. It's been raining for the past 3.5 days.

Everything else good but the tranny shifting?

Been wanting to do that myself. Other things keep getting in the way.

I guess that would make it rare but possible.

The size of the hole should not make a difference. Sounds electronic to me. Dont think I would worry about it.

I agree with scanning for codes first. I am curious if you ever had batteries or alternator checked out.

Really spit balling here but what if those were not 50's you got and are much bigger. Since this started with the injector install maybe maybe DAP sent the wrong ones by mistake.

How is your air filter?

You have problem that needs to be fixed before you add anything. Your EGT's are double what they ought be and smoke sounds way out of whack. My truck with the 50's cruising on level ground does so at 650* or so as yours should. Did all of this start when you installed the injectors?

leveling kit on the truck? Or what is the pin weight? Camper package on the truck? Too many questions. She is squatted hard.

The sensors are different in 02's and maybe the 01's also. Mine is just switch and the pressure is determined by the ECM reading info from the ECT SENSOR and maybe one more sensor. @Mopar1973Man and some others here have posted about and know more than I about. I would check before I buy one that says it fits all 2nd gens.

I used a glow shift 2 gauge mount for a good while in mine until i got a third gauge. Cant remeber where the 3 gauge pod came from. Had no issues at all with the 2 gauge.

Here it is. Be careful putting the pump back on. With the coupling lined up it should slip back on. Do not use the bolts to pull it up tight. I got lucky and it slipped on first time.

The truck is setting relay with all that on it. Not squatting at all.

When I did my timing cover I also had a little weeping from the case itself where it meets the block. I had pressure washed it real good before removing the cover and then sealed it from the outside as best I could anyway and it seems to holding for now any. The vacuum pump was easy to do. I did it @Mopar1973Man's way and left the power steering pump connected and under the hood. That way I did not have to open that system up.

It amazes me how much oil can get blown around under the hood. When my tappet cover was leaking it appeared I had oil leaking from all sides. Replaced the gasket and I was dry for a good while. A while later and it seemed to be starting over. Front crank seal and timing cover helped but the vacuum pump was doing its best to spread oil also. Oil pan gasket is my last issue for oil right now I hope.

Map 29 at idle to 72 at WOT or there abouts on the code reader? Where are you reading your EGT's? And Boost? Did you add the some gauges?

My oe had no jerk nor did anything else. They lasted over 200k. Changed it all around 240k. My front end was worn out.

Rock Auto has a Denso too. A lot cheaper, $123, than the one you got, no telling where any of them are made from the research I did. Makes choosing fun. I do appreciate the input.

Saw that when I passed him. Don't know what that means either.

I understand accessories but not sure about this. Imthinkmhe might be talking to ET. Wait a minute maybe @W-T.

What it does is flick it on and off quickly. It still gives it 12v just on off, on off. When it is working you can pull the fuel system relay and just crank the engine and you will here the Fass relay clicking on and off. It keeps the pressure down for VP while starting.

When I say stock I dont mean just the turbo, I mean anything you have done to improve performance. If you look below this post you can see what I have added to mine. I you have owned since new and not added anything it is stock. You can put air pressure to the actuator and see if opens. 20 psi or so is all it should take for stock actuator. Some scanners do not read the MAP pressure right. My scan gauge reads idle on mine at around 25 psi and about 39 at WOT. I do have a mechanical gauge on mine and 32 is about the top for me right now. It can get hot pretty quick with the tuner turned up. By then I am going faster than I should.