dripley

Mine dropped to 40 or so this am but when turning slowly only about 80.

If you have a stock HX35 in there it should not go over about 20psi unless you have boost elbow of something else to keep the gate closed. Once you get over about 35psi you are out of the turbos range of efficiency. 48 psi on that turbo will crank up the egts. There folks here that know way more about this than I do. My HX has a waste that opens around 34 psi and my Comp tuner does the boost fooling to the ECM. Have you done anything extra to the truck or is it still stock? That is very good mileage on the VP. I have 234k on mine. I feed mine a good bit of bio diesel in the past 4 or 5 years and the other 4 or 5 years #2 diesel with 2 cycle oil at about 1 oz per gallon. I recognize every thing in your fuel list except RUG??

Here is everything including a new compressor for less the $200. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3934884&cc=1440064&jsn=451&jsn=451&jsn=451 I am leaning towards this one more so than the first. Costs a little more plus you would need the o rings and seals. they have them also and still think you are under 2 bills. Shipping is another 25 bucks. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5245524&cc=1440064&jsn=455 And if you go for the used compressor i think the other parts are less than $50.

I have DAP 50's in mine and they are a bit smokey until the trubo spools. Sounds like your waste gate is stuck closed. That would explain the 48 psi on the map and high egt's. But if you are stock you should be getting an over boost code at the least. Can you give us some more info on your truck. Is it stock or what have you. Anything you changed or added. Jack, I have been kidded about running a lot bio diesel in mine but I dont think I have ever seen anyone with such a wide range of fuels they have run thru there Cummins.

According to the wiring diagrams the power comes from pin 15 and pin 35. I dont know why it comes from 2 sources. When you get this deep into the wiring I have to step aside and let the more knowledgeable step in.

Be sure read @IBMobile article and posts above. You will have the system wide when swapping them. Makes a bigger job out of it but worth it.

Mine spins very slowly when it does it. I wont be long before it stops completely like yours. If I could get to it easily with out removing it from the truck I would adjust the clutch for now. But it looks like I would to take it off to adjust the gap. If I am that far into it I figure to just replace it all.

Not sure the dealer does them anymore and if the do it will be quite spendy. Here is some places with known success. You would have to speak with the vendor to find out about cost.

Mine will soon be doing that as it wears a little more. But if it is cycling on and off it could just need a charge or maybe a bad electrical connection. This is my intention.

You can still buy the OE compressor and they are around the $500 mark from the Mopar parts places. I have seen the ones on Rock auto and elsewhere in the kit form very reasonably priced and will go that route by the time I pull the trigger. Just seems getting any up to date opinions on them is hit and miss.

Yeah I saw a lot of that on the internet last night. Still looked doable but not in the time I have today. It worked fine this morning when I went to the store. But when it warms up I dont think it is going to happy enough to work. From what I am seeing you just dont know for sure which Chinese compressor you might get no matter who you but it from. I just cant swallow the $500 for the OE. Even some Sanden compressors are made in or with parts from China.

Lets hope @wagntagn knows. Sounds like he installed it.

I checked the clearance on the clutch. The fattest gauge I have is .026 and it slips right in with room to spare. I have read that there are possibly some shims in there that can be removed to shrink the clearance but it looks like the compressor is going to have to come off to be able to see if it that is possible. @IBMobile is there any particular brand of compressor you are fond of? Figured you might replaced some in your day.

There should be a fuse in the Fass wiring harness. My AD has one. That is the only fuse for the transfer pump. The power from the ECM is unfused. Have you checked to see if the lead from the ECM is hot while the engine is running? You can also bump the starter, no engine start, and the lead should be hot for 20 seconds or so.

Neither am I. Finding good bad about all of them. Most of the 3 years old or more. Appreciate the info. Just reread that article yesterday. I will check the clearance tomorrow. Be nice it was something simple.

Guess I am headed in the right direction then. Lot of unkowns in whats available. OE is $500 down to kits for $155. Not finding alot of reliable info on the lessor ones. Anyone have any experience with the after market ones?

I am betting on the clutch. Nothing with the belt. It is turning everything it is suppose. I can still turn the motor over with the alternator pulley. Now the search begins. probably replace the compressor too.

IIRC the high side was around 150. It was spinning just fine when I recharged and work fine for what little I used last week. The clutch was engaging and disengaging as I charged it up and finally was spinning just fine after getting charged. Started this stuff on Friday. It is spinning now but maybe only 100 rpm at idle and a little jerky like a slipping clutch.

Recharged the ac last week got everything up and running fine. On the way home the air went from 40* to 80*. Made a pit stop got back in fired her up and she worked for about an hour or so then back to 80*. Upon further inspection I see that the clutch is turning very slowly and a little jerky like the clutch is fried. What can I check to see if thats the case or just maybe the pressure switch.

My thanks long over due. It is a great asset and have used it often. Many thanks.

Thanks Daniel, this has been very helpful.

Like I said living and STILL learning.

They seem to be interchangible terms around here unless there is one n my truck I don't know about. My first one too. Just had mine longer but still living and learning.

TPS=throttle positioning sensor APPS=accelerator pedel positioning sensor TPS/APPS=the same thing.

I guess I better check my numbers. I'm only 10" different than you on the control arms.