dripley

I am NOT saying you can't use them. The folks that have have had to shave off some of the stud for the tie rod ends will work. That is on 2500's. It is most likely a bit different on a dully rim. I believe they are narrower which might make it easier.

I have not done but have always heard that you have cut part of the studs off of the rod ends to clear the the stock 16" wheels. That or use 17" wheels. Just what I have read from other members here.

I have had my turbo off the truck once in 2005 and thats it. Are you saying the exhaust housing is divided also?

I am confused but I only had a couple drinks. Maybe I need to catch up. pretty sure thats how mine is. Manifold divided but the exhaust housing is not. Opening another beer now.

Welcome. Look forward to seeing how this all goes.

If you already have tow mirrors you do not need the backing plates. They are already there. Mine came from A1 also.

I had 2 sets of the factory rims and after the 5th rim cracked I had to ditch them. A couple of cracked into the barrel of the rim and did not leak.

I agree with you. That puts @Marcus2000monster 235hp rating correct just not an HO engine.

I know about the smaller input shaft on the early 6 speeds. I just thought the the HO was introduced with the 6 speed.

Pretty sure they are a 4th gen style in 2nd gen set up. If they have turn signals, some wiring is required for them.

It looks like the HO was not introduced until 2001. http://www.cumminshub.com/timeline.html I always thought 6 speed and HO went together. Maybe not.

Mine factory spare looks like your second picture except the holes in mine are ovals. Same number of holes and it is black.

I ran one of keys for 16 years to the point I could take it out of the switch while the truck was running. The key was thin and cuts were rounded off. I got the other key that came with it and started using it and it will not come out of switch while running. Seems to me the key and switch wear both wear out.

Now all you have to do is add a trunk.

Well I must have the spacer because I have the CAD and no pull. Just never heard that discussed before. Live and learn.

I guess I have not read that one and mine does not. Not arguing, just never heard that one before.

Mine started blowing with or with out things plugged into. Pretty sure my socket went bad.

And splat goes the bug, again. I wish you luck and wish I could help.

Good to hear. I was beginning to wonder if you might be able pay the truck before you got it.

Yeah,^^^ what he said. There are some ridiculous prices for things out there.

I had trouble with mine a while back blowing fuses. I ended up replacing the plug and it has worked fine ever since. The bottom of the plug was rusted pretty good.

Mine is similar just without the cord. The timer just plugs in the. Mine is NOT weather proof.

With temps at 20* it only takes 30 to 40 minutes to bring the block up to 60* for an easy start. No need for it to be on all night. I use a timer on mine.

That is one of the 2 stock sizes that came on them. It is what i run in a Cooper ATP from discount tire. 245 is the other stock size. Load range E definitely.

Mine are disconnected and when it got cold here in Maryland I would plug mine in for 30 to 45 minutes with great results. I dont think the engine missed the grids at all.