dripley

Vulcan sells a fuel module for the 2nd gens. It looks very much like the I got when Dodge blessed with my in tank pump except without the pump.

With my travels for work I formed a lot of long distance relation ships with many people mostly over the phone. Harder to meet some people since we are mostly different states. While not as good as in person at least speaking with some them makes a big difference. Hearing the voice is much better for me. On the flip side I have made some good friends here and with out speaking to most them. Not sure what to think but here is much different than of what i have seen else where. I now carry a smart phone, tablet, and a computer just do my job. CFA is o. A big kick with a program called Plan Grid that I have to learn and want us into move another called Lean Construction. All requiring more time in front of screen of some sort. Seems that I might not be the Chicken Man much longer. All of this is to get job information in front of more people, namely alot of people who have never set foot on a construction site nor have a clue what it takes to build something. Maybe it is designed to help them out but I am not a teacher, if you want to learn what I do come on out in the mud with me. This plan grid thing is set almost to where the CFA construction manager will not make site visits, all done with pictures and emails. I guess if I was not so close to retiring I could see the benefit. Technology is outpacing my elderlyness.

No. The new key stopped me from being able remove it while the engine was running. Separate issue from the delayed WTS light. Sorry for the confusion.

Did you tignten them down as you got fuel to to them? As 4 gets good fuel tighten it down and so on and so on.

If you talked to an ECM rebuilder you could probably send them any ECM you have as long as it is rebuildable. That is a conversation you need to have wth them. The key thing I think is just the key. I cannot get the new key I started using to pull out of the switch like the old one. Of course the switch has to take on some wear and tear just like the key so maybe something is worn there also.

Alright my 7 hour ride home is over. I will bring it up. What is the farce, I drank the cool aid. I do however believe that it is a benefit. And the pot is

If you put the quad on you will be replacing it. Walbro, airtex are not up to the task. My thought is a full FASS or AD or a mechanical pump. You see what @trreed has in his. I am not trying to discourage you from trying but if put a system together don't skimp on the parts you use. You are only as good as your weakest part.

When i mention a full AD system I am not speaking about raptor or DDRP. Totally different animals.

Yes.

There is a factory return from the VP and the cylinder head. My AD return is there to return fuel with air in it so it does not go to the engine. That is not all it does just the only I can remember at the moment. As far as putting your own sytem together, go fof it. But get all your pricing together first. I would be surprised if you can put one together for less that does the same job as a full AD or FASS system. I could be wrong.

I think I meant it more as a comparison of the times like you mention. No need to hide behind the sofa.

The delayed WTS light is the ECM not booting up properly. Could be stray a.c. voltage from the alternator. There is an about this in the articles section but I still have not figured out how to post a link with this tablet. My key was doing the same thing as yours a year or 2 back. I started using the new spare key that came with it and it stopped. Mine was worn down quite a bit compared to the new one. That's my theory anyway.

Good luck my friend. Look around under there and familiarize your self with what's under there. It is not that complicated.

Don't worry about the dumb part. I learned by replacing all my front end parts at about 240k. It is all pretty much bolt off and on parts. It is a little time consuming if you have never done it before. I did mine after the alignment shop i went to wanted $900 to replace about a third of the parts. I replaced e erything and picked up some tools to boot for les than than that. To straighten your wheel park the truck with the wheels straight. Then go to the adjustment sleeve on the drag link. Loosen the bolts on the sleeve and rotate it. It will turn the steering gear which in turn turns the wheel. Rotate until the wheel is straight, then retighten the bolts on the sleeve. You might need to shoot some penetrating oil in there if your front end is dry or like me mine are somewhat self lubricated with oil.

My AD has one supply and one return. Not all pumps are set up this way. Some do nothing but pump fuel with no return line.

Just look under the truck at the front end. The tie rod, between the 2mwheels is not one solid bar. It has an adjustment sleeve on it with a bolt on each end. Loosen those bolts and you can rotate it. This makes the tie rod longer or shorter for adjusting tow in or out. There is another on the drag link. That is the bar that goes on the Pittman arm on the steering box to the right front wheel. Adjust that sleeve and you can straighten out your steering wheel. I keep thinking there is a third adjustment sleeve but just can't remember. They are very apparent if you look under there.

That almost sounds to simple. Seems we possibly have an educated sole in our midst.

Some body had a thread or article on a fly alignment. Don't remember who and did not see it in the articles section. Maybe they will speak up.

I was stabbing in the dark too. I will bet one of these more educated soles will come along and straighten us both out before too long.

Just say the left wheel is towed out. The left side of the truck is trying to turn left and the right is trying to go straight so younhave to turn the wheel right to counter act that. At least thats howmi see it. No front end expert. When I replaced my track bar a few months back and had to adjust the drag link to get the wheel straight. But mine was not pulling to either side. As mentioned before alignment or caliper sticking most likely.

Next time you drive it and park get out and feel the wheel at the lugs and see if the left is hot. Pretty good sign the caliper is sticking. You could also jack the wheel up a spin it and see. Is it pulling all the time?

In the wheel bearings. The sensor kind of follows the brake IIRC. They are pretty obvious if you look over the back of the tire.

Does it follow the engine rpm or wheel rpm?

My god, I think sterile. Now I know I am sterile, been breathing wood for 40 some odd years. Funny thing, when we were kids they used to spray insecticide in a fog off of a truck. They just drove all the neighborhoods spraying every where. We used chase and run in the fog. Of course that was back when DDT was not bad for you.

Cracked exhaust manifold maybe? Bad front u joint?