dripley

@Dieselfuture is right, I was speaking of a newer truck.

I had my doubts that I could even have crimped it enough to stop the flow at the pressure it runs anyway. Was not sure how the VP was going to like it. I feel lucky it would not crimp. It was then I had none those light bulb moments and thought of the hose. I drove back to the job 15 miles, about half a mile was in town with a few stop lights. The rest down the interstate at 60 mph in 5th. The engine stoppedmvibrateing around 2000 rpm and it did not like 6th at all. The can had about 3 gallons in it in that short of time. So I bought some more hose and ran it to the tank thru the filler neck. That was by far better than the can. As far a newer one it should work. Don't know if it is bad on the injectors to dry fire them, if so just unplug and live with the code till you can fix I guess. Major emphasis on the guessing part.

Looking for that 500k mark myself and still have amount of oe stuff on mine. I do to find some time show her some love though. Hopefully i will get some on the next job.

Congrats, nice step up to make. Good price too.

435k miles here. I can usually average arond 16 to 17 mixed and consistantly seeing 19.5 on the highway empty around 75 mph.

14' of fuel line, some hose clamps and a catch can, added 3 more feet when i found out how much fuel the line put out. I did not try to go home, it would have been miserable drive on 5 cylinders plus the part did not arrive until yesterday here in Maryland. The only tool I did not have was a 19mm brake line wrench. No store around the job had one so made out of a boxed end wrench

I figure that missing isololator let it vibrate and fatigued it. I never knew the lines were double walled. I assume thats why i could not flatten it out. That was probably good for me, I don't think it was a good idea in the first place. It also gives a little better idea of why they cost so much. The isolators are a different story in my opinion. 29 bucks for this was hard to swallow. The only other place I found them was at some of mopar overstock places for near the same plus s&h.

While I did enjoy that while it was all working well I still think the failure was due to the hold downs not being in place putting some undue stress on the joints. Did you ever have such a failure? Not that @Mopar1973Man would ever use the hp his truck had. Say it aint so...................

If you blow the second pic up you can see that it more torn apart than just sheared off. When you say rubber are you meaning the material between the 2 lines? The more I look at it the more it does not look like nylon, just something I can not identify, but never the less some solid material other than metal.

I just had to replace #5 injector line due to it breaking of at the head. Something that surprised me is that it would appear that the injector line appears to to be double walled with a very small line inside of the outer line separated by what appears to be nylon. I don't know that be an absolute fact but this is what I see from the damaged parts. Here is a pic of the knob that broke off at the head. I have not been able to cut the old line open to see. Is the entire line of this same construction? If so that would explain why I could not fold the line over to crimp it off. I will cut the old line open tomorrow and see what is there.

I have only done it once when resealing the vacuum pump. I took the power steering pump loose from the vacuum pump and left it hanging and then removed the vacuum pump. Install was the reverse. Never tried it with both bolted together.

You ought to get a new connector tube o ring for it too. That could be blown and only takes a few minutes to install since you are in that far.

Yes. I looked at several Mopar oversstock places and 170 was cheapest I saw. I did order a #6 line from an eBay vendor for $60 to compare what difference there might be, visually any way. Wish I could have found somewhere that carries the isolator blocks. Those are pricey everywhere I looked.

I looked one up with the dodge part # and they were around $170.

I would be interested in what they say. It us identicle to some of the connections we use in the restaraunts I build.

Is that not an o ring on one side of the fitting? Hose connection is flared fitting and should not need anything to seal it as long as the matting surfaces are in good shape. Good chance the pump needs re sealing. I just did mine a few months ago, don't believe I messed with that fitting either, but it is dry now. .

They hold well. Mine have 435k on them. Still believe mine only failed due to that missing clamp. I ordered another #6 in case it got stressed also. I ordered a #6 from an ebay for $60, figured to compare the 2.

Put enough on there maybe. Those threads don't make the seal. The nut applies pressure on the line and cross over tube fore the seal. You might just have a bad o ring on the tube. Worth a look. Those lines aren't cheap. I just had to order one from cummins for my #5. The end in the nut blew off. I was missing the hold down at the rear holding #5 and 6. Figured that put some undue stress on it. $93 for the line and $28 for the hold down parts.

Sounds like I have it backwards. I thought it read the ECM and not the PCM.

Key on key off key on key off key on then look at the odometer. Not sure what yours will read. The ECM at best, I am not sure on the 99.

Reason I ask is I have BC pump also. Not the special X but the unit he sold back 8 years ago with a new computer on it. $1700 back then I believe. It has seen 2 important things its whole life that my first 2 did not. Good fuel pressure, never below 14 psi and 2 cycle oil almost its whole life. I did loose a lift about 3.5 years ago but not the pump. I cant keep from believing this is a good strategy. @Mopar1973Man just got 243k out of his non BC pump following this method. I have 218k on this one and hope to beat him. Only time will tell. My next one will be a non BC as well for economic reasons.

Righty tighty looking from above the steering box.

Just remember when it does quit it is always in bad place. Which Blue Chip pump was it?

Not me. I dont run them on the truck.

There is an adjustment on the top of the steering box. It is a threaded shaft with a jam not on it. Loosen the nut and tighten the shaft. You are not trying to bottom it out. Try a full turn and if it does not bottom out tighten the nut back up and drive it. Be careful. if you tighten to much the steering will not return on its own. If you feel the shaft bottom out back it off half a turn the test drive.If the steering does not return well back it off a little more. The first time I ever did this was on a S 10 I used to have. Whipped out of the driveway on the street and the truck kept turning so beware.