dripley

I have an HO motor and will stick with an HO pump since I would loose the core for not having the proper core. Just me though.

I have a AD 165 on my truck. It is way overkill for what I need. Bought it for 2 reasons, one it came with a kit to eliminate the in tank pump and only cost a few dollars more than the 150 that at the time. That was my thought process at the time. Not sorry I bought bigger than I needed.

It is the Dodge in your Cummins. It is like a woman, mysterious at times.

You need to check great songs. The chickens revenge. I will be enjoying stewing in the juices whilst you freeze your nads off. Ah ha haaaaa.

We are catching the break out here on the right coast. Should be in the 60's and near 70 this week.

My punch out carpenter showed me this today. Cant believe I beat @IBMobile to this one. Be patient and hear the last verse.

I believe @Dieselfuture is asking where the relay is installed. In the PDC or an after market harness. My money is on the PDC for the VP.

There is a good reason for this. The ECM is a mysterious beast. There are several proven symptoms that point to the ECM. Mine failed back in 09 with none of the symptoms most people have. Nobody knew much o how to help then and with a $2500 price tag back then it was a tough sell to see the dealer back then. I for one am gun shy of making that call with some one else's money. I am sure @Mopar1973Man might some thing to add to that.

You are right there is no fuse or relay for the lift pump unless you add them. Not sure what the brown and white to PCM is for. Maybe that has something to do with this. Are you using this wire for the power or the trigger for the relay?

Is your WTS light coming on?

Is any thing else working. Starter turning the engine over?

My Banks, as many others, operates off of the vacuum system on the truck. For the most of them they close a butterfly valve in the exhaust turning the engine into an air compressor. The Jake brake does something the valve train. Someone else would have to explain that due to my lack of knowledge.

If we told where is the fun you speak of?

I worked in a Western Auto for my first job at the tender age of 14. Never touched any over sized wheels and tires back in 1967. To young to operate the tire changer. But Loyd the boss man helped mount the 4 tires and showed me how to mount the right side tires and then left me alone to mount the left side tires. Does any body remember that left side Chrysler wheels had left hand threads back then? I sure did not. Could not get them started. Lefty loosy and righty tighty is all I knew then. Loyd loved every minute of it.

There are 2 bolts on the hold downs, you only remove one and the hold will sip off of the other. The instructions tell you which one. Then you pop the injector out. Install the new and you put the hold down on just dont tighten the bolt. You will see when you pull them out, a groove in the injector and a tongue on the hold down. That will get them close and snuggling up the injector line does the fine tuning, then torque the hold down. Bring it down here and I will make the same offer as @Mopar1973Man. It's just a wee bit longer drive.

@Mopar1973Manis right, you dont have too. But after my first install and the leaks, I took them off and cleaned them. The second ime I just did it because I could. Most everything is loose anyway, why not. Just a personal choice for me.

I like to beat my trying stop leaks after the first time. Another thing i might is while you the lines off clean the mating surfaces with a scotch brite pad. Those surfaces make the seal. The nuts just apply pressure to for the surfaces to seal. The threads themselves are not the seal.

I wish you luck, not hard to do at all. There is one thing I learned and I am not sure any instructions refer to this. After you install the injectors and before you tighten the hold downs be sure and snug up the injectors lines first. This will help align the two so you do not struggle with leaks later. Then torque the hold downs.

The ECM takes care of lowering the pressure for starting. That is why it is important to use it to control the pump. Using the relay and letting the pump lead control it is the best way. It takes the load off of the ECM. Trust me my hearing was leaving me before the Cummins.

The relay makes your ECM much happier. Do you have a hard start problem?

I should say that I have NOT heard it in a good while. My heating aint what it used to be. You reckon 434k in the 2nd gen might have something to do with it?

I have the Banks. Bolted right and and worked great until 6 months ago. I think something in the actuator went, but not sure. It is possible I have some vacuum leakage that could be the culprit. Not getting much time at home lately to check it out. Has around 165k on it and worked fine right up to the day it quit.

I have at times heard my relay clicking on and off during an extended crank.

Me , I run my tank low especially on road trips. I usually put 32 or more gallons in on a fill up. Never have had an issue with that the whole time I have owned her with both the stock, in tank and AD. On at least 2 occasions I have put just a tick over 35 gallons in the tank. Now that is stretching it to far and I got lucky.

You definitely want start with the injectors I my opinion, although both would be the best. Injectors are cheaper to start with. But maybe getting the price if the tuner by the CFO first would make the less expensive injectors more palatable in the future.