dripley

A couple of issues I had predated the wire cutting. I only cut the wires on the advice of Chip, against my better judgement, I sure felt like he knew what he was talking about. Some other issues seem to move around. Like wac-a-mole. But I'd agree with @mopoar1973man about cutting any wires. Don't unless there is no other choice.

One of my wife's girl friends was going to use my 69 chevy one week end. She came got the keys and started it up. She came back in the house tolet it warm up. I went a few minutes later and no truck. She did not set the brake and doown them drive way and into the valley. Can't believe it did not hit a tree, just parked itself.

Careful parking comes to mind.

I would not right the VP off just yet. If you did suck some air in the fuel system 5 seconds of cranking is most likely not going to push it out. How much fuel is in the tank? If you are real low add 5 gallons to the tank. How did you read your codes? When my oe lift pump went out the truck just died and would not start. Did not know squat about the fuel system back then and just took it to a dealer. Back then 10 psi of pressure at idle is all Banks told me I needed to add the set up I bought from them. WOT was not even mentioned. You might be sitting at 0 psi but would not know until you get the engine running. I would try cranking on it some more with the lines open and see if you can't get some fuel out of them. If you start seeing fuel flowing close the one getting fuel and so on. Might take 5 seconds or 15 minutes. If you have 10 psi it ought to start.

I have an LED drop light and it works great. The only drawback is it is directional to about 90*. It does have a magnet on it to hold it and is small enough to get into some tight places. Never thought about just putting a LED bulb in the old one. Good idea.

I would have to agree on what you say. I am staying about 6 miles from my job here in Maryland. The 4 lane highway I travel in a 55 mph highway and folks are driving 75 and darting in and out just pass one more car. I figure most of them left the house 15 minutes late and are trying to get to work on time. Maybe thats whats needed to slow them down. i think they would all be surprised it they just drove 55 to work and see what difference it makes. Sure you can run 75 to the next light but you going to stop almost as much. I just hope they are getting the electronics right and someone knows how to diagnose any issues better than on my truck. If not they will be junking them after 5 years because no one knows how to work on them or you cant afford the diagnostics.

@W-T or anyone for that matter. That was an interesting read even for the electrically challenged. I did not understand alot of the technical jargon but from what I gathered are you talking about something like the below? http://www.mechman.com/alternators/dodge/full-size-truck/5-9l-diesel/1988-2002/

That is pretty much what I did and I used flux also. Never had a problem with melting the insulation. Probably did a little on the inside but was un noticeable on the outside.

I soldered mine. Soldered a couple of the oe cables a while back and never noticed any wicking up the cable. I heated the lugs and melted the solder into them. Then heated the wire and put the heat back to the lug and assembled them, took away the heat and let them cool. I did the same with the new welding cable and experienced wicking. Y'all correct me if I am wrong here, but the solder should not wick unless the wire is hot enough to allow it to flow. Just wondering if the finer wire is transmitting the heat better up the wire?

I would have to defer to Mr. Nelson on that.

I believe so as long as everything else is disconnected.

14 psi would be minimum to look for and that is at full throttle. If you are still running the stock pump on the block,good luck. It would be good if you would go back to your profile and fill out a signature with every thjng you know about the truck. It helps alot. Cracking the injectors means loosening the nuts on the head. 1 3 and 4 are the easiest to loosen. I do mine a couple turns so the fuel does not spray every where. There will be agood flow of fuel if the sytem is primed.

Hopefully you can get the test gauge in the cab or at least visible so you can check it under load.

I believe on the 98s you would do it on the fuel filter canister. My 02 has a Schrader valve on the inlet fitting of the VP. Ideally you are looking for 14 psi minimum. That is not easy for a stock pump. You need to check it at idle and WOT. You need good pressure there also. The fuel cools and lubricates the VP that's why the pressure is so important. The timing piston in the can seize and cause the 216 code. 2 stroke oil helps with that also with today's ULSD. Most of us hear use it or a few other products to Add Lubricity to the fuel.

My 50s and are good bit smokier than the RVs i was running even with the sub level turned way down.

Do you have anyway to check your fuel pressure? Weak fuel pressure can kill the VP, hence the 216 code. Dead pedal and hard starts can go hand in hand with that also. If you go the articles section, 24v, engine, obd error codes you can look the codes up and do some diagnostics to help narrow it down.

My 02 oil pressure gauge has always acted like it is reading the true pressure, but from my reading here I was convinced it was a product of the ECT and rpm making it look that way. I seem to remeber a video of the early mpg fooler here and when it was turned on and the temp gauge changed so did the oil pressure. @Mopar1973Man was that not you that i learned that from?

My factory plug is not in the. It is just below the bumper on the left rear.

I thought the 02s were all switches also based on what I have read here..

I have 218k on mine now. Hope to surpass you, but she might go tomorrow, who knows. I am always traveling different routes when I change jobs but have had pretty luck and bad loads of fuel. I do get some water occasionally but never seem to drain much water from the separator and have never seen WIF light. Hope my luck holds.

No. Never had a DDRP. I lost the OE lift pump around 150k on a road trip. Had it towed to the nearest dealer and they replaced with the Dodge in tank pump. Did not last even a year.

I have heard the same thing over the years and that more was needed. I went with the more crowd to be safe plus I I wantedntomrid myself of the in tank pump. It was a $900 POS. Inside of a year In was 5psi idling and near 0 at WOT.

I had a Banks Ottomind. Came with the stinger plus package. Bought it back in 05, it crapped sometime in 2011 or 2012. Not sure how different they are today. It was plug and play and worked quite well. You could do the same with the Quad and just use as much of it as you want and if you get bit with the power you will already have what you need for it tuner wise anyway. As far as the DDRP, I don't know about it. If it were me I would go with a full FASS or AD for the filtration and know yoh are covered.

The stock HX with stock waste gate should make about 20lbs of boost. Mine has a Banks waste gate that opens around 33lbs so can get more out of them. I used the higher the number better but that is not the casemvrom what read here but I would have to defer to those much smarter than I on the subject. I just know the HX is capable of higher numbers. The boost elbow will allow that to happen by bleeding pressure off of the stock waste gate by delaying opening.

The injectors you speak will give some added mpg unless your right foot is glued to the floor. And just to add when I added the Banks tuner, 75 hp and tapped, to mine at 100k I was all stock also. Our only difference is 4:10 vs 3:55. I changed my clutch around 255k and it still had some on it. Never slipped it.