dripley

I have heard that one before. They go hand in hand with proper control on the right foot.

Yes. The curiosity will get ya.

I got mine from LMC Truck. No molding, no fibergalss, no nothing. $300 4 or so years ago. Still looking very good. I pretty much coated my bezel on the backside of the instrument bezel with silicone because it was coming apart. It is now coming apart again. Going to get that replacement from them too. Not sure a bezilla will fit.

Damn what does that thing weigh. It looks like Dash-O-Zilla.

My grids are and have been disconnected going on 3 winters now. I typically see the temps you describe and dont have any issues. I do plug mine it on a timer to come about an hour before I leave when the temps get near 20f. The truck is happier starting and warning up then. It will start without plugging it in below that but it can be pretty angry at those temps. So in my opinion no harm no foul.

I will leave to the experts on fuel line size. My experience with the tapped and untapped pump has been good both ways. My first 100k was pure stock. Truck pulled but very laggy at lower rpm. Put a Banks kit on at 100k, 75hp chip and tapped the pump. Enjoyed that for the next 125k and installed some RV275's. Now that was fun made a good difference. Well about 35k later the Banks took a dump amid some poor financial times and I had to run with no tuner and just the RV's. I actually got used to them and they towed and drove very well, still missed the extra power though. So 75k later I put an Edge Comp on and 50k later threw some 50hp injectors in. That was a lot fun and has been for the past 50lk. Had the quad been out there when at the time I probably would have gone that way but I dont regret what I have now. All that brings me to my current 435k. I have done it with and without a tapped pump and enjoyed both. Long story short, tapped or untapped you will like the power. Knowing what I know today I would put the quad, untapped and see how I liked it. You then can start building up, tap the pump, bigger injectors and tuning. I think if you drive around with foot on the floor all the time you are going to put alot wear and tear on everything. If you just want to use for a some fun or just to pass that pesky BMW that just want give up the left lane, go for it. You wont regret it. Tapping the pump wont tear it up but your right foot can. Just my 2 cents worth.

The rv's are nice. I drove mine for 3 years or so with them alone and the truck did fine. Got a little boost in mpg to boot. The extra power of a chip is nice dont get me wrong, but for the money they are great. I had to come back and look since I realized this is in 12v section and you have 02. You can go to your profile and fill out a signature that will appear at the bottom of each post. Put your truck info in it. And welcome to the farm.

The key trick for codes does not work on a 99. You will need an OBDII scanner to read the codes.

I have to agree on getting the read or else you will be chasing your own and spending a lot cash throwing parts at theories. Also welcome to the forum.

The Napa rebuilt is most likely a PCM and not an ECM. A lot of places do this.

Did front and rear on mine and the lights still burn brightly.

Mine would not fit at all. I had to trim off almost an 1/8" all the way around to get it in with the o ring. Of course it is 12v t stat in 24v engine.

There is a right up in the articles section about ECM rebuilders folks have had success with. It is in 24v/engine/electrical. I can't figure out how to post a link on this tablet. You need to be careful, there are a lot of companies that sell these that do not know what they are doing. I am willing to bet it is the ECM. I had identical problems with mine when it went though never threw a p606 like yours. Mine was like yours but on steroids. Many more codes, surging much worse and undrivable. All diagnostics I did told me every sensor on the truck was bad. I did replace the oe apps with a Timbo and 1 or 2 of the cheaper sensors that showed bad to no avail. A rebuilt ECM fixed mine. I am not an ECM expert by any means. I had more symptoms than you but shared all the ones you have. It is a big ticket item and not a part you just want to throw on and hope it works. If you could get your hands on a good one you could install it and see if that fixes it then you would know for sure

I had the same issue with a rebuilt ECM back in 09. The first one was bad but the second one worked, all but the cruise. The light was illuminated constant but ctuise did not work. The problem did not exist until I installed that ECM. I did not investigate the issue as you have nor would I begin to know how. That ECM only lasted about 13 months and I had it replaced with one from Cummins. Cruise worked fine after that and to this day. I am not saying your ECM is bad, apparently you know much more about it than I. Just giving you my experience with a very similar issue. I never did find out what caused the problem.

What would bust up the sub frame other than a wreck? The only plastic pieces I have lost so far have been the dash pad, already replaced, but instrument bezel just keeps disintegrating slowly. Seem to find a new piece on the floor weekly. Thank God for black duct tape.

I guess that is the unknown. Pretty pricey at $240 for the uppers alone. $100 ought to buy a good pair for uppers. I know you might not have to press them out but you still have to tear down the front end to get to them. Proven longevity needs to be determined and that is the big unknown. Same thing for all of them on the market now. I have Moot on mine now with near 170k. A little play in the but still hanging in there. Got them about the time Federal Mogul got their hands on Moog.

Thanks for straightening that out. OP he asks a good question about the WTS light. It should come on as soon as you turn the key. If it is not on and wont start but comes on later and will it points to a different problem. That and weird gauge readings might be pointing to a bad ECM.

I just installed the t stat @jlbayes suggested for the 12v trucks in the original post. In town around 20, 25 degress I still saw good bit of temp swings like always but not as bad. Just made a 435 mile trip back to Maryland and did see some some 10* swings but very few. I am used to wider swings even on the interstate. So while not a total sucess a definite improvement for me. I am reading this off of my scan gauge and i did notice if you just have the dash temp gauge you would never notice any swings unless they are large. I have to add that the t stat is about 1/8" to big and I had to trim it down to fit and it comes with no gasket/o ring. @pepsi71ocean maybe I need to try one of the 200's. We will see.

I look at it this way, if i put them in at that price and they only last 100k then I have to take it all apart again and rebuild them then hope the rebuild lasts that long. I can buy a good set for about 200 bucks, all four. They might not last but 100k, but I can put whole new set in for 200 or so bucks again. I should add I know nothing about the company. No matter how cheap the rebuild kit is it is the labor that kills this job.

Help me out there DF, how do you check for ac noise if there is no output? Not trying to be a butthead, thought you might know something I don't. To the OP sounds to me like either the alternator is shot or the PCM is not telling it to charge. I am definitely not the electrical genius here, so let's see what others have to say. Have you checked for any trouble codes?

I personally can't. Can you see them at the bottom of your posts?

I ran Michelin's at first and then they got pricier than I liked. Ran a couple brands without great service life. I am on my 3rd set of Cooper ATP's. I get 60k to 65k out of them. This last set has seen a lot of highway miles I'm thinking I will 70+ out of these. Not there yet however.

Patriot blue pearl over silver. Liked the colors when I saw it and it had the options I wanted and could afford. Bought it new in October of 01.

I never noticed my steering any different in 4X4 unless I made onto the pavement and still had it engaged. @Tractorman. Your explanation is appreciated and understood. I need to go thru mine a little better.

The feet sure look comfy.